Orlando Clipper Customization/Restoration

[Willyclay]

Re: Orlando Clipper Customization/Restoration

I'm using a 3/4 PVC drain plugs with 2 o-rings but it still leaks D: I measured the hole and it came out to .950 something. Would a 1 inch snap in drain work even though there are threads on the things? The threads are about gone D:

I believe you should consider drilling the hole out to one-inch diameter to get rid of the threads so a one-inch snap plug will seal correctly! The iboats store sells them for $3-4 depending on if you like brass or stainless. Good luck!

Seasense Brass Snap Drain Plug - iboats

 

[coolguy147]

Re: Orlando Clipper Customization/Restoration

Went camping over the weekend! Hope everybody had a nice weekend!

Well, I would like to put a through transom plug but there might be some complications with the rivets at the bottom and back of the boat in addition to the wood...troublesome

How many threads should be left on the garboard style drain? I have about 2-3 remaining lol....

 

[Willyclay]

Re: Orlando Clipper Customization/Restoration

I have one just like it on my boat. It designed to be plugged from the inside most of the time. However, you can remove the plug once you get up to speed and water will drain out of the back. It works well, just be sure to replace the plug when you slow down ! To be honest, I just keep mine plugged all the time when I'm on the water. I use the style of plug in the second pic above and it works great and you can get them anywhere for about $5.

I think member kfa4303's boat is also an Orlando Clipper and believe he is referring to a snap-lock plug which he says "works well". PM him for clarification before you start drilling holes in your brand new rebuilt transom. Even if you do decide to install a thru-transom drain, you still need to stop the existing leak. Everybody posting in your thread is trying to help you. Hang in there!

 

[coolguy147]

Re: Orlando Clipper Customization/Restoration

I think member kfa4303's boat is also an Orlando Clipper and believe he is referring to a snap-lock plug which he says "works well". PM him for clarification before you start drilling holes in your brand new rebuilt transom. Even if you do decide to install a thru-transom drain, you still need to stop the existing leak. Everybody posting in your thread is trying to help you. Hang in there!

Well, I tried the twist in and snap in today. The twist in seems to work ok but has a slow but noticeable leak. I tried the snap in but I couldn't really tell if it was leaking or not because the bottom of the bottom was still wet. I'll let it dry over night and let you guys know.

It seems like I need to put the snap in drain plug in so tight that when i snap it down it bends the brass at the top and makes it difficult to come out D: Would the stainless steel version be stronger?

The other thing is that the plug hangs pretty far below the bottom of the bottom. Would this cause performance issues? It might drag when it's beached.

 

[coolguy147]

Re: Orlando Clipper Customization/Restoration

http://forums.iboats.com/boat-restoration-building-hull-repair/transom-repair-268432.html

Post 21

I can't exactly see what he's using.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Orlando Clipper Customization/Restoration

I doubt you'd ever notice the drag the plug causes sticking below the hull........ Whether installed from above or below.... Below you're at risk of losing it if it flips open.....

If you have to compress the plug so far that it deforms the handle to flip it over, it's not really working properly.... Even the stronger SS plug handle could fatigue over time w/ that much pressure..........

Are you putting the plug in from above? Or up from below? The plug has a noticeable flare towards the 'top', when adjusted just snug, the action of snapping the lever over, should pull that flare DOWN into the drain hole, and help w/ the compression of the rubber to stop leaks (when installed from above).

If you have to force it to flip over, it's likely overworking the rubber too, particularly against 'rough' screw threads instead of the smooth bore that it's designed to fit......

That drain plug is fairly far back towards the transom. Are you beaching the boat transom in, motor up? I can't remember the last time I saw a boat beached that way, if ever.... Usually bow forward..... Bow in, I can't see where the plug could be flipped open because of beaching.... In reverse, against submerged tree limb or whatever... But those hazards aren't beaching specific, IMHO.....

 

[coolguy147]

Re: Orlando Clipper Customization/Restoration

I doubt you'd ever notice the drag the plug causes sticking below the hull........ Whether installed from above or below.... Below you're at risk of losing it if it flips open.....

If you have to compress the plug so far that it deforms the handle to flip it over, it's not really working properly.... Even the stronger SS plug handle could fatigue over time w/ that much pressure..........

Are you putting the plug in from above? Or up from below? The plug has a noticeable flare towards the 'top', when adjusted just snug, the action of snapping the lever over, should pull that flare DOWN into the drain hole, and help w/ the compression of the rubber to stop leaks (when installed from above).

If you have to force it to flip over, it's likely overworking the rubber too, particularly against 'rough' screw threads instead of the smooth bore that it's designed to fit......

That drain plug is fairly far back towards the transom. Are you beaching the boat transom in, motor up? I can't remember the last time I saw a boat beached that way, if ever.... Usually bow forward..... Bow in, I can't see where the plug could be flipped open because of beaching.... In reverse, against submerged tree limb or whatever... But those hazards aren't beaching specific, IMHO.....

Yea, sometimes I do back in the boat to keep water from jumping in from the back. I'm not too worried about it now though.

I'm putting it in from above. I guess the sticking through can be negligible.

Well, I'm going to get some pictures of my drain plug to give you guys a better idea of what i'm working with. I might have to put a garboard style drain in D:

 

[kfa4303]

Re: Orlando Clipper Customization/Restoration

Hi coolguy. Yes, I use the snap down style plug. You can usually adjust the diameter of the plug prior to installation by twisting it in to widen it, and out to narrow it. That may help make the plug fit better and get rid of the pesky leak. The lever on the plug should be snug, but not so hard that you risk bending it. They should also be available in a couple different sizes, if need be too.

 

[coolguy147]

Re: Orlando Clipper Customization/Restoration

Hi coolguy. Yes, I use the snap down style plug. You can usually adjust the diameter of the plug prior to installation by twisting it in to widen it, and out to narrow it. That may help make the plug fit better and get rid of the pesky leak. The lever on the plug should be snug, but not so hard that you risk bending it. They should also be available in a couple different sizes, if need be too.

The bell handle isn't bending but the base at which it snaps in on.

 

[coolguy147]

Re: Orlando Clipper Customization/Restoration

Well, for the side note, the 1.25 inch plug doesn't fit lol

it seems like i'm going to have to either find something that will go in and not leak or put in a new garboard style drain. How do I put in a new one?

 

[Willyclay]

Re: Orlando Clipper Customization/Restoration

..or put in a new garboard style drain. How do I put in a new one?

I like what member friscoboater did in post number 248 in his current project boat thread:

http://forums.iboats.com/boat-resto...18-complete-restoration-thread-585518-10.html

 

[coolguy147]

Re: Orlando Clipper Customization/Restoration

That style of drain is what i've been looking at! I don't know if I'll be able to install that in the back of the boat. I might have to put it in the bottom of the boat. I'll look it over more this weekend. If push comes to shove, I'm thinking I might have to drill the old drain out (6 rivets?) and pop this on in the old hole. Do they manufacturer new old style drains? lol idk...much to think about...

 

[coolguy147]

Re: Orlando Clipper Customization/Restoration

BTW, I found a pin hole leak in the boat yesterday...it sometimes clogs with dirt lol so that probably didn't help my problem. I put some stuff on it. My drain plug still leaks lol.

 

[Willyclay]

Re: Orlando Clipper Customization/Restoration

If push comes to shove, I'm thinking I might have to drill the old drain out (6 rivets?) and pop this on in the old hole. Do they manufacturer new old style drains? lol idk...much to think about...

What does the existing drain look like on the inside of your boat? Can you post a picture of that area? Before you go drilling out the six rivets and trying to adapt/mount a garboard drain, let's stop and review what you have tried so far. Can you summarize your previous attempts in a list? FYI, I do not think they still manufacture new replacements anything exactly like your old-style drain but I have been wrong before. Have you been able to identify the exact size and thread count of the original drain plug?

 

[orlandoclippertim]

Re: Orlando Clipper Customization/Restoration

Hi CoolGuy
Been awhile since I have been back on Iboats. My boat is identicle to yours I think- i did my transom completely over about 8 months ago. I considered using all aluminum too. I was looking at making it by making an "aluminum sandwitch" with about 1/8 on either side and some 1 inch or 1+1/4 aluminum channel on edge forming a framework and the sheets welded/riveted on either side. would be extremely stiff and also strong with fairly light weight. however I couldnt find channel in 1+1/4 or even 1. all i could find was bigger. If I had used the bigger channel the new transom would have been thicker than the oregional 1+1/2 thickness and then the triangular knee braces would no longer fit their oregional rivet holes in the floor.
So I decided to just go with doing 2 layers of 3/4 marine plywood. I cut them out and cut the edges at the hull angle- and joined them together with T-88 epoxy from woodcraft (in castleberry 17-92)
then I painted the remaining epoxy on the outsides and outer edges to seal the pores.
I has to remove the knee braces completely to pull out the oregional wood- they used polyester resin to glue the thing into the back of the hull aluminum. it was still stuck in some places even after 60 years. There was some aluminum corrosion where the wood was touching- so i had to buff that off and then sandblast the surface to clean down in the big pitts. Then I did an acid wash and a chromic acid treatment followed by a 2 part grey epoxy.
Those 2 layers with epoxy are PLENTY strong !
I noticed that my knee braces were both cracked where the sheet aluminum was bent back on its self. so i made some new ones from 1/8 sheet aluminum. i also made a new cap piece which covers the top edge of the wood. the oregional one is pretty minimal and flimsy.
The 2 layers of marine ply worked GREAT ! There was about a 1/4 inch gap on the inside perrimeter which i filled with the white marine sealant. Then topped it off with grey paintable silicone.
Is there enough of your wood left to make a good pattern for cutting the new one ?
My transom is done except for putting the final SS bolts through.
Now I am making a tool to try to make a new floor rib. Also have to make a mold to make a new windshield.
Do you have any idea what the oregional upholstery looked like ? was it red or blue plad cloth? i have seen some like that which looked great but dont know if that is oregional.
I got my boat from an older gentleman who lived on the east side of lake conway - his sone was going to restore it for him but they never got to it. Did you ever see it on the lake there ?????? just like yours (mine is a 15.5 foot 1956 with windshield, front and rear decks- appears to be the "ski-boat model)

Tim

 

[orlandoclippertim]

Re: Orlando Clipper Customization/Restoration

on your drain plug issue- I have the same scupper type plate on my bottom. It is just a round disk of sheet aluminum riveted arround the edges to the hull. the scupper part is made into/on the center of the disk. How about removing the disk and putting a new disk in its place which has a smooth hole which will be "happy" being sealed up with one of the simple lever type expanding rubber plugs ?
I am guessing the the expandable rubber jobs dont like being on threads.

Actualy I believe my hole DOES NOT HAVE THREADS- I think it is smooth- someone may have threaded it to screw a plug into it.

I could probably make a replacement disk and center boss for a rubber expanding plug. it would have to be riveted in where your old one is now.

If the boss area is big enough- you could ream out the hole- getting rid of the existing threads and maybe making a nice smooth surface for a rubber plug to be happy in. and hopefully nice and watertight.
I am thinking if your hole is threaded that expanding rubber plug can never expand 100% to the bottom of the threads and the water is winding its way UP the threads and making a small seep.

Tim