oil leak on 3.0

[Scott Danforth]

I’m looking for a timing cover and gasket kit as well as a seal kit for the outdrive so I can get started on the project. The outdrive inspection will be a good thing and I have to change the trim switches too.

you will most likely need to buy the parts separately. I do not think there is a "kit"

 

[harringtondav]

I'm pretty sure this will work. $16 at Advance, $20 at AutoZone. Includes gasket and crank seal. ...or you could buy OEM: "Replaces: GM 3992251 and Mercruiser 59341A1. SKU: 0014-058. $114.99"
I Googled "GM 3.0L gas engine timing cover".
Thinking back ,I think I was super careful to not tear the rubber oil pan gasket that wraps the bottom of the cover.

Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance

shop.advanceautoparts.com

 

[Jmunk]

I had a 3.0L years ago with a rusted timing cover. I supported the front of the engine, removed the timing cover and cut the oil pan gasket flush. I installed the new timing cover and used a 3/16 or so bead quality gasket maker on the oil pan lip. It sealed up fine with no leaks for a few years till I sold it. I did the same to a friends boat that he ran for years with no leaks.

I’m not saying that is the proper way, but worked for me. It’s the same way I used to do timing covers on Chevy a 350 when doing a cam swap with the engine still in the vehicle.

Just an option, pulling the motor and installing a new oil pan gasket is the best way to ensure no leaks.

 

[Fscott4]

I'm pretty sure this will work. $16 at Advance, $20 at AutoZone. Includes gasket and crank seal. ...or you could buy OEM: "Replaces: GM 3992251 and Mercruiser 59341A1. SKU: 0014-058. $114.99"
I Googled "GM 3.0L gas engine timing cover".
Thinking back ,I think I was super careful to not tear the rubber oil pan gasket that wraps the bottom of the cover.

Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance

shop.advanceautoparts.com

I think that’s probably the way I will go. I will put some type of sealer or rust proofing on iota and it should be fine I would think

 

[Fscott4]

cover is off and I ordered the NAPA timing cover that crosses to the dorman number for automotive applications. the part is NLA according to the local Merc dealer. I don't see why the part won't fit but who knows till it gets here.
Engine still in the boat, took out bench seat and placed a 2x4 under the oil pan (fit snugly) used the mount adjustment to lift it another 1/8 and placed shims under it, lowered it down and took it apart. Plenty of room to move around and work. I am going to see how clean I can get the surface with the oil pan rubber gasket (still intact) and use permatex on it.
The pic of the timing cover is of a hole that was under the water pump housing. It was rotted out.

 

[Bondo]

Engine still in the boat, took out bench seat and placed a 2x4 under the oil pan (fit snugly) used the mount adjustment to lift it another 1/8 and placed shims under it, lowered it down and took it apart.

Ayuh,...... Now, after ya put it back together, ya gotta pull the drive, 'n realign the motor to the gimbel bearin',.....
If ya don't, there's a solid chance it'll take out the coupler,.....

 

[Fscott4]

Even though the motor was only lifted literally 1/8”? I have the original position on the mount marked for re installation. I only raised enough to take the load off the mount.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Even though the motor was only lifted literally 1/8”? I have the original position on the mount marked for re installation. I only raised enough to take the load off the mount.

yes, even if you so much as turned the mount nuts at all

you have to pull the drive and align.

you are supposed to check alignment every year.

 

[Fscott4]

Ok, that sounds fair to me. I’m happy is didn’t have to remove the engine so that’s a fair trade off!

 

[Fscott4]

I will go thru the drive and install new trim switch/sensors when I do that. I will have a little more peace of mind knowing its all squared away come next season.

 

[ROY WILLIAMS]

I did some rust on the metal rust holes https://www.amazon.com/TRAVACO-PROD...s=marine-tex+epoxy&qid=1663806509&sr=8-6&th=1

 

[Fscott4]

I thought about a repair but when I looked it over I figured it was best to replace it. I’m going to make a concerted effort the keep it clean and dry

 

[harringtondav]

Heed the advice about alignment, adjuster height, etc. Alignment bars are fairly inexpensive and a good investment if you're into boating long term.

 

[Fscott4]

I am going to get a bar and make sure it’s all squared away. Any thoughts on how to determine whether I have an alpha 1 or 2? Generation 1 or 2?

 

[Scott06]

I am going to get a bar and make sure it’s all squared away. Any thoughts on how to determine whether I have an alpha 1 or 2? Generation 1 or 2?

91 is the change over year between gen one and two. My 91 boat was a gen one as the driveline was a 1990 manufacture

Post pictures of your drive or drive serial number

 

[Fscott4]

91 is the change over year between gen one and two. My 91 boat was a gen one as the driveline was a 1990 manufacture

Post pictures of your drive or drive serial number

 

[Scott06]

Thats a gen one drive Serial OD469859 and up are gen 2

 

[Fscott4]

Thanks!

 

[Fscott4]

I pulled the drive off see oil and grease inside the bellows. I’m going to remove the rest of the unit tomorrow so I can change the bearing and install trim switch/sensor, but I’m curious as to whether there should be oil in the bellows?
Thanks

 

[ROY WILLIAMS]

I pulled the drive off see oil and grease inside the bellows. I’m going to remove the rest of the unit tomorrow so I can change the bearing and install trim switch/sensor, but I’m curious as to whether there should be oil in the bellows?
Thanks

grease is inside the bellows u joints .. but no gear oil ...
did you use the old trim sw/resistor left right see if the ohm meter is working . I no the CCP parts are a lot of failures ..switch/resistor sensor .. corrosion in the components ...