New boat 1967 Holiday 18ft general questions

Dantana Tin

Seaman
Joined
Mar 21, 2015
Messages
61
I was able to get some dry weather to finish cleaning out the floor of the remaining Styrofoam. I then decided to turn my attention to the wood support for the transom. All the cross pieces that went stern to bow direction were in pretty good condition (dry). However the long piece that went from port to starboard was a different story. :eek::sorrow: See picture attached. I died inside a little.


Am I mistaken in thinking that this is Teak. Interestingly I see where there used to be vinyl, as a matter of fact most of the staples are still visible on the back side after I took it out. Good news, from what I can see the transom is pretty dry and solid.

Thanks as always, DT.
 

Dantana Tin

Seaman
Joined
Mar 21, 2015
Messages
61
Actually the piece in the photo is the wood that is forward of the Transom, where the engine box rests against. Is there a wood that would be most preferred in that area. I know some woods due to there oils and such aren't best against aluminum, especially CCA pressure treated wood. Also from the looks of it every piece of visible wood appears to once have been originally covered with Marine vinyl. Is it best to get a piece in there but paint, poly, or spar it? If so what kind of wood?

Thanks as always, DT.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Jan 12, 2013
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13,794
It's mahogany, the transom cover supports and bow cover supports of that era are some beautiful wood that is if they haven't rotted. My transom cover support was in the same shape as yours that's why I said it looks like it needs attention. I replaced mine with 3/4" marine ply sealed with spar and tractor paint.

This is how my support turned out being painted.

IMAG1585.jpg
 

Dantana Tin

Seaman
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Mar 21, 2015
Messages
61
Morning Watermann,
Not to :deadhorse:but how long should I wait between applying the spar and painting it?

Thanks, DT
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Jan 12, 2013
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13,794
Lots of environmental variables there, just wait until the spar isn't putting off it's solvent smell.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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The only thing I brush on is spar, everything else I have to spray it on otherwise a have a huge mess on my hands. Keep in mind that support was out and laying flat so it was an easy one.
 

Dantana Tin

Seaman
Joined
Mar 21, 2015
Messages
61
Okay the floor is completely torn out, the Styrofoam is finally all gone, and the previous residents have been evicted from the inner hull. I was able to high pressure spray the floor and there appears to be a stained area in the center of the floor. What is the best choice to clean that area. My brother gave me some sharkhide aluminum cleaner, but I think that may be too harsh. Any thoughts?Thanks as always, DT.



 

oldhaven

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 30, 2015
Messages
576
If there is no serious problem with the hull from a leak test, you will be putting flotation in soon. You will never see this stain again. The rest looks superb and I am envious. Put your energy into other things that get you done sooner.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,794
Your stain looks kinda like it's from the motor leaking oil or someone who drained oil out in the bilge and then water got in there with it. I had something similar in my Chief but it was worse with thick wads of dried greasy dirt. I used a bunch of Superclean on mine with a scrub brush, spraying, scrubbing and pressure washing. I left the plug in so the Superclean could sit and eat at the stuff.
 

Dantana Tin

Seaman
Joined
Mar 21, 2015
Messages
61
I used a concentrated amount of simple green and had the plug in as well and God provided the water over a couple days of heavy California showers. I then used multiple spray tips on a borrowed heated water high pressure sprayer. I probably should have gotten a before shot, because it looked really bad. There was a thick oily sludge that held onto the aluminum.

It never fails, I always think about taking a before shot after it's done. Duh:der:
 

Dantana Tin

Seaman
Joined
Mar 21, 2015
Messages
61
I live a very short distance from a boat launch so I will be doing a dunk test hopefully soon. I just received new rollers in the mail, so I have to get my trailer put back together so I can get it to the launch . I was able to buy them online at Walmart at a considerably discounted price. So after that, it will allow me to see if the are any leaks that will need to be addressed.
 

Dantana Tin

Seaman
Joined
Mar 21, 2015
Messages
61
OldHaven (OH),
I've discovered your post on your Starchief. I get what your saying about how clean my hull looks. The before shot would have looked much different. I will say that I do envy you going with the new hydraulic steering option. Keep up the great work.
DT
 

Dantana Tin

Seaman
Joined
Mar 21, 2015
Messages
61
Howdy awesome Starmada crew.

One more question, or two or three or......... I have attached a picture of the bow section of the hull. I figure the gunk in the picture is factory original gunk (sealant). Should I clean that out and replace it with some new sealant rather than just add more? Would this be a job for 5200? It looks like the old sealant is pretty dried out. If it's best to remove it, what's the best product to remove it, denatured alcohol, acetone, mineral spirits, or something?

As always Thanks, DT

 

jbcurt00

Moderator
Staff member
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Oct 25, 2011
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Is it leaking at the bow seam where the factory smeg is?

If not, clean, remove loose/flaking smeg and seal over w gluvit.
 

Dantana Tin

Seaman
Joined
Mar 21, 2015
Messages
61
I haven't tested it yet, but I do actually plan on using the gluvit after I test it. If it does leak, is 5200 the sealant of choice?
 
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