New boat 1967 Holiday 18ft general questions

[GA_Boater]

I agree with Watermann. Painting the hidden inside is time consuming with all the prep and really little if no benefit. The white powder is aluminum oxide and unlike rust on steel, is actually a form of self protection for aluminum.

Cleaning out the limber holes, pressure washing the heck out of the hull, fixing any leaks and using Gluvit or Coat-It on the rivets and seams is the way to go.

A note on bed liners - I had some corrosion caused by almost 50 years of PO neglect and using pressure treated wood. Somewhere along the line bed liner was sprayed on the corroded areas and from what I've seen while removing the stuff is that it made the situation worse and it was so hard to get rid of it to make repairs.

jbcurt00 had a similar experience with bed liner - I think he got it all out eventually. The effort may have taken years off his remaining boating time.

 

[Dantana Tin]

Wow 49 years, sometimes I forget that it is almost fifty. I actually was looking for a StarCraft for sometime before I came across this one. I jumped on this one because it was made the same year I was made, so I guess I forget that I'm almost fifty, even though I most of the time feel older than that.:disturbed: I would definitely want to put the money elsewhere, I'm just a worry wart and probably overdo it sometimes.

 

[Dantana Tin]

Is there a preference between Gluv-It or Coat-It? After the Starmada input, I have put the idea of the Tuff coat to rest. I can also save around $125.00.:joyous:

 

[jbcurt00]

Coat It is black, has kevlar (benefit?) in it and is cheaper, but used less here (elsewhere?) at iboats

Gluvit is used more often, yellowish 'tinted' clear (sort of looks like polyurethane), and used most often.

Neither product has gotten negative reviews here, as best I remember, and both must be covered, they are not UV stable.

On the aluminum hull, nope, PLEASE no bedliner.. mine wasnt applied well or pre-prepped well. Some of it peeled right off. Some succumbed to a 3500psi pressure washer. The rest, I dont want to relive that ever......

 

[Dantana Tin]

Thanks JB,
I can clearly see that the removal of the bed-liner material was quite a traumatic experience for you. I apologize for bringing up such disturbing events. I have experienced a lot of why would they do that with home improvement projects on our 160 year old house. It's amazing the items that people would use to fix things. It must have been a case of use what you have. Lol

On another note, about the transom. Mine is actually dry with no damage to the wood. The wood was painted but it appears to be coming off in sheets. Is it best to sand or scrape it and poly, spar, etc or re-paint?

Thankful as always, DT

 

[Dantana Tin]

I was able to locate a pair of fairly decent back to back seats off of craigsflakes, I mean craigslist for the mistress. I got the lot for $50.00 because the bases were extremely dry rotted. Since the vinyl on the bases look good, it can be pretty deceiving. When I flipped the seats over and saw that the bases were wasted, the seller quickly went from $100.00 to "I might take $75.00 or less". Since the seats were in really clean condition, I offered him $50.00. He jumped on it. The boat was covered but somehow there was still allot of water in the boat. which was why the bases were wasted, but i wasn't concerned about it. Anyways due to the high gunwales, whatever I bought I would need to make larger bases for the seats anyways. So I think that was a good CL find.

As always thanks for everyone's input, DT.

 

[GA_Boater]

Bottom feeders are at the core of the Starmada!

Nice find, DT. Bases are a snap to build.

 

[jbcurt00]

Dag nab it, ya went and made me go hunt up a pix to share:

Ugh uke:

The smell of wet PT lumber, fermented pink peanuts, waterlogged spray foam, random pickled leaf debris and the tar-ish/asphalt smell of bedliner was an unpleasant experience.

Removal of the bedliner was worse, complete w toxic aircraft paint stripper and chemical burns.

 

[jbcurt00]

Bottom feeders are at the core of the Starmada!

Nice find, DT. Bases are a snap to build.

Yep, great grab.

 

[Dantana Tin]

Thanks, I was pretty excited about the seats.

JB, that's one sure way to make sure nobody ever uses any type of textured material on a hull. Like the person with the hole in their neck on a stop smoking poster. Outstanding public service message. Just when you think you've seen it all, "pink packing peanuts" yikes. I used to work on old vw's and the materials people would use and the repairs they used to make would boggle my mind and give me nightmares. Now I see that's not just exclusive to old cars. Old boats can be just as violated. :grumpy:

In regards to those seats. I could tell that the seller was well aware of the damage, but acted surprised when I turned them over. He quickly started to stutter, especially because they were advertised as "like new, with slight scuff on one of the seats". I guess it pays to know what to keep your eyes open for.

As always, Thanks to all DT.

 

[Dantana Tin]

Morning,
I have a question about trim tabs. I have been reviewing different posts and was wondering which would be the preferred for my rig. I saw that Grandad used the 60# setup but I wasn't sure if the 40#er would be better for 18 footer as compared to Grandad's 21 footer. Also would this probably be best to install before I reinstall the floor. I hope to finish up the interior gut job this weekend and get some pictures uploaded.

As always, Thanks to all DT.

 

[Watermann]

I used the 60# model Nauticus with my 18' Chief due to the 800Lb V6 and OD. They're adjustable for amount of lift too.

 

[Grandad]

Morning,
I have a question about trim tabs. I have been reviewing different posts and was wondering which would be the preferred for my rig. I saw that Grandad used the 60# setup but I wasn't sure if the 40#er would be better for 18 footer as compared to Grandad's 21 footer. Also would this probably be best to install before I reinstall the floor. I hope to finish up the interior gut job this weekend and get some pictures uploaded.

As always, Thanks to all DT.

Yes, it would be a good idea to mount your tabs first, before the floor, since access to the backside will be blocked for some of the bolts. I had to use "Wellnuts" in preference to chopping the floor for access. They worked well, but are pricey. - Grandad

 

[Watermann]

The only thing about using machine screws and nuts is what if sometime down the road you need to remove them? Most of us have used closed end blind rivets on the area below the Z bracket and seated the mounts in 5200.

 

[Dantana Tin]

Grandad,
In your post about your Holly rebuild you were talking about how glad you were that you got the 60# rather than the 80# trim tabs. You also talked about your gut feeling was that you had too much lift. I think that's why I thought maybe the 40# might be better.

Watermann,
It sounds like you have allot more weight and motor than I have in my Holly. I only have the Mercruiser 120. I know the lift can be adjusted but are they adjustable via rocker switches in the boat or is it a trial and error adjustment? Also wouldn't the Wellnuts that Grandad used still allow the ability to remove them later if need be or am I envisioning something different.That wouldn't be the first time, I've taken a few "boot to the head".

As always Thanks all , DT

 

[Grandad]

I suggest that you ask the Nauticus folks for advice on actuator size. I think that you are better to undersize the actuators than to over-do them, though 60 lb may still be the best choice. If they press too much, they will add drag and slow the boat's high speed performance. If undersized, they'll improve performance somewhat less, but not make it poorer. Anyway, ask and if they're not right, maybe Nauticus will be more likely to make an exchange than if you didn't ask. It's true that the nuts will be hard to reach for replacement, though the bolt heads could be sheared if necessary, just the same as the rivets that Watermann and others have used. Or at that time, you could remove a couple inches of decking above the tabs, but only if necessary.

No there're no switches to these "automatic" actuators. There are several bolt holes that change the tab angle and thereby the strength to a degree.
- Grandad

 

[Dantana Tin]

Great, I will do that.

BTW Grandad, I used to spend a few weeks every summer in Barrie at my Uncle's place. I am actually a Canuckistan transplant. I used to live in a Vanier which was a suburb of Ottawa. It was there that I first became interested in the Starcrafts and decided that I would one day own. My Brother has a really nice Jet Star that he restored. I have attached a picture. Here in California they are a lot harder to come by. I remember as a kid almost every third or fourth boat was a Starcraft of some sort.

Anyway, Thank as always, DT.

 

[Watermann]

Oh wow I like that naked hull with the blue paint on the topside!

 

[Dantana Tin]

Another oddity on the 67 Holly. I have what looks like an eye hook on both the port and starboard side next to the side windows. I was thinking that maybe someone installed them to secure a bimini top to it. Any thoughts?

 

[Watermann]

Yeap that would be my guess too, someone was too cheap to buy the correct bimini hardware.