Re: My tri-hull transom replacement w/ pics
If I never have to flip another boat it will be too soon. After getting the blue part of the hull painted I needed to flip the boat back over in order to start the paint on the top. After having worked to get that blue all purdy' the sphincter factor went off the scale. I don?t have any pictures of the process because it all happened at night. I am lucky enough to have a gantry that helped with the work. It carried the weight easily. But it still took a couple of hours of rigging and working slowly to get it back over safely without damage. (by myself BTW)

I put the boat back on the trailer at this point. All the exposed areas of the hull that the trailer obstructs are now painted. I will be able to finish the paint work on the trailer without it being in the way. The bottom paint has about ten days of cure, so the new rollers provide the best way to prevent damage to the bottom paint. Stands, blocks or even my fancy dollies will scratch it with me climbing in and out of the boat.
The gunnel cap and the splashtray still need primer. After sanding it smooth, I will be ready for the final coats on it and the inside of the hull.
I coated the deck previously with pigmented gelcoat. It has several months of cure on it. Even though it is unwaxed it should be to a point where a good cleaning and sanding should allow for a final waxed coat to make it as purdy' as the rest of the finishes. I am so stoked about starting the rigging.
I have a plan for everything except the placement of the gas tank and the batteries under the splashtray. The ideal way to do it would be to place the tank in the middle and the batteries (2) to either side to balance the weight. But I do not want to drain the deck through the sides of the hull. I prefer to drain it from the middle. The tank will block the drain.....hmm. what to do? Any suggestions?