My 84 4winns horizon 195 project.

Pmt133

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Jan 6, 2022
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Got a lot done today. Still can't upload photos. Gelcoat the bilge, built out the fuel tank compartment, glassed in the floor supports and a couple other miscellaneous things.
 

Pmt133

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Jan 6, 2022
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So I did a small experiment. I took one of the pieces of foam from the boat and soaked it in a bucket for a couple weeks. It "took in" about 20% of its weight in water. Now this foam has a lot of voids as it was a scrap from one of the vents but interesting none the less.
 

Lou C

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Nov 10, 2002
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When I dug the foam out of my boat when doing a partial deck replacement I found 95% of the foam was totally dry only the bottom most 1/8” was damp. That was surprising to me….
Can’t wait to see more of your pix! Remember that a boat like yours or mine is about $75,000 brand new and what you’re building is actually better built!
 

Pmt133

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When I dug the foam out of my boat when doing a partial deck replacement I found 95% of the foam was totally dry only the bottom most 1/8” was damp. That was surprising to me….
Can’t wait to see more of your pix! Remember that a boat like yours or mine is about $75,000 brand new and what you’re building is actually better built!
My bow was saturated. The deck side was drier as I dug down. Stringers were the same way!

I figure something comparable now is closer to 90k. I got a lot of deadrise so while sitting at anchor is a little worse, it punches well above it's weight while underway. Only thing that sucks is you need like 3 feet to float it without a small wake bottoming it out. When we do the hang out it does suck having to stay so far out. The lake isn't as bad since the bow can be in inches of water where the stern is in like 20 feet.
 

Pmt133

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Jan 6, 2022
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List of updates: transom assembly is in, bellows installed. Bilge gelcoated and Y pipe in. Fuel tank finalized and installed. Hatch cut, hoses test fitted. Last piece of bad wood was removed from the hull yesterday. Bow eye hole plugged and new backer glassed in. I did 2 sheets of half inch ply, 1 at 1.5 inches wide and 1 at 2.5 inches wide. Bedded that in peanut butter and tabbed the small one then a layer of chop second piece of ply and more peanut butter then 2 tabs of 1708 to fully enclose. That plus the hull thickness and bedding is about 2.5 inches leaving just enough on the bow eye for a lock nut, metal plate and washers.

I also glassed in the shelf for the anchor well. I did the glass the bottom outside the boat and left wings to tab the underside in then PB filet the top side and layer down a continuous layer of 1708.... strong as **** for a tiny anchor lol.
 

Pmt133

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Jan 6, 2022
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Fun day. As of tomorrow, the last piece should be fiberglassed in. The front anchor compartment is now built and I'll gelcoat it tomorrow. Bow eye is installed and remaining wood templated.

Big days ahead!
 

Pmt133

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Here's a question. I've built my seat boxes and more or less matched the original ones. They were just plywood and 2x3s. The new box is 2x4 Douglas fir and the exterior ply.

The original boxes had what I assume is just black paint sealing the wood? Same as the transom had around the keyhole. Then it was wrapped in carpet. They again lasted 40 years so no need to reinvent the wheel there but I must ask, would the old timers formula be beneficial for this application? Figure the carpet will mostly be stapled but the glue should still stick... Thoughts?
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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OTF would be good, Rustoleum would be fine too.

I used WEST system epoxy to seal exterior plywood used as seat/upholstery substrate on a rebuild once, and the staples would not go thru the wood. I do not recommend that.

I have done a layer of CSM and poly resin over plywood many times. staples can usually make it thru that, however some times they folded over.
 

Pmt133

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Jan 6, 2022
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I kind of figured. The resin and mat seems overkill for what it is. Just want to give it something more than just being exterior rated lol.
 

Pmt133

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I did a test fit of the original bulkheads, they fit perfectly so I templated them and made new ones. I also built the hush panels and today started carpeting the removable bits. With the parts in for the test fit you could finally see the end. It was nice looking at it how it was supposed to look.
 

Pmt133

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All the installation bits are carpeted except the fuel tank hatch. I'll do that with the floor. I also gelcoated the inside of the anchor box and boxes in the cabin. I am at that point. I want to get as much done as possible before loading it onto the trailer but its becoming increasingly difficult without the engine to test fit and mount some items. I cant run the cables and such without the panels in as they mount to the back of them and I can't install those until the carpet is in...
 

Avedis

Cadet
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Oct 19, 2017
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11
Just found this thread Pmt...all I can say is wow. Very cool.

If I had your space and tools, I'd be very tempted to pull the 3.0 on my 1950 and seal the transom/engine area to have a massive floor to fish from, cut the weight of the boat by ~30%+(?!) and run a 24 or 36v on the front with a small tiller on the back, and have a deadly trolling machine. Too expensive/irrational to ever pay to have a shop do it, but I've had dreams.

Thanks again for the feedback on my small flooring project.
 

Pmt133

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Jan 6, 2022
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571
Just found this thread Pmt...all I can say is wow. Very cool.

If I had your space and tools, I'd be very tempted to pull the 3.0 on my 1950 and seal the transom/engine area to have a massive floor to fish from, cut the weight of the boat by ~30%+(?!) and run a 24 or 36v on the front with a small tiller on the back, and have a deadly trolling machine. Too expensive/irrational to ever pay to have a shop do it, but I've had dreams.

Thanks again for the feedback on my small flooring project.
Any time. I wish I could upload photos as the last ones don't do it justice any longer.

Oh, and I retained my 4 rod holders during the restoration. ;)
 

Pmt133

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Jan 6, 2022
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So I've made a drive link with most of the photos from the last month that way you all can see where I've gotten to. Yesterday I finished up my remote oil filter install, I'll update my other thread with more thoughts on that matter.
Boat project drive link
 

Pmt133

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Jan 6, 2022
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So... What do you all think I should use for sealing my new hatch to the deck. Seems there are about 500 different opinions on this matter. It is a Bomar 995 with a plastic frame. Seems Life-caulk may attack the plastic of the frame. So maybe Dow 795? 4000UV? something else?
 

Pmt133

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Jan 6, 2022
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571
Bow hatch in, cleats bedded, blower run, trim and tilt installed... I'm sure I am missing some stuff but.... she's trailer ready.

Edit: also learned the bow deck is balsa core.
 

Pmt133

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Jan 6, 2022
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So, there is an engine in there now. I wasn't going to post this but I played around with the alignment for a while. I'm pretty sure I did it right... I knocked around the gimbal lightly then slid the tool into the coupler. Knocked it around again in the coupler then pulled the tool out. Greased it and checked the witness marks. It seemed ever so lighter on the bottom of the tool after fudging around with it for a couple hours. I said screw it and tried stabbing in the drive. Slid right in to the coupler sans the last 1/16 inch if that. I'm no expert but I'd say that was probably just the o rings. Tool was able to be removed with three fingers. I think I'm okay.

Plan today is carpet then maybe she comes home.
 
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