My 84 4winns horizon 195 project.

[kcassells]

It's real nice to walk on a flat surface. Tilt you boat before you pour the foam.

 

[Pmt133]

It's real nice to walk on a flat surface. Tilt you boat before you pour the foam.

Funny you bring this up. I actually did a couple test pours and recorded them with the inspection camera... I've linked the videos. The boat is still pitched decently, about 1 inch over 2 feet, just the nature of how I was able to block it. It seems I got pretty good fill from the video though. I'll pitch it more tomorrow and foam some more but I have some other bits I want done before I go for the full fill. I foamed the area where I am climbing in and out of the boat to take some pressure off the deck....

Foam 1
Foam 2

Edit,

to summarize my process, I poured in the low spot and covered by hand each hole as the foam expanded past the hole up hill. If I should do something else please let me know as I don't want to break anything... I figure this is best as it naturally purges all air.

 

[kcassells]

I think I poured on the high side and blocked low hole as foam reacted forcing to high side opening

 

[Pmt133]

I'm reading that as long as it moves toward an open area I'm good.

 

[Pmt133]

Did some mode work today, and got the first ~3 feet of the port side foamed. May have bought a little too much foam. Im a gallon in and have 6 left.... Between that and dodging heat... it was a long day. As a side note, I'm used to working in the heat, but the condensers of this house are near the garage doors. With the fans running and the fumes the thermometer was reading 93F at times in the garage on an interior wall that was cool to touch by comparison. There are three large condensers out there.

 

[Pmt133]

So now a question.... I plan on getting some glass on the deck tomorrow. My original plan was tab the edges and glass the whole thing but.... it seems I can get away with using 1 continuous piece front to back, wrap the edge to tie to the stringer and then go up the side of the hull... I originally was thinking tab with 2 layers of 1708 then top the deck woth 2 layers of CSM. It however seems like the better option would be do the one whole layer with 1708 then top with a slightly larger piece of CSM and call it good.

Am I better off tabbing once then going over with the continuous layer then topping with the CSM or is the 2 without separate tabs plenty?

 

[kcassells]

Just roll your glass when doing your flooring up the sides of the gunnels.
x2. That'll be your tabbing.

 

[Pmt133]

Just roll your glass when doing your flooring up the sides of the gunnels.
x2. That'll be your tabbing.

And the 1 layer of 1708 and 1 of CSM is more than strong enough?

 

[kcassells]

2 layers 1708. 1708 altready has csm on it. 08 0z. If I'm understanding you, your intenions are to glass the floor.

 

[todhunter]

Pretty sure I did 2x 1708 tabbing on the perimeter, 1x 1708 on the rest of the deck, then 1x 1.5oz CSM over all of it to smooth out seams and transitions and have a mostly flat floor.

 

[kcassells]

The tighter the weave on the deck floor means less fairing. How do you plan on finishing the floor after glass? I only faired seems or overlaps. The rest I did not fair because I wanted the texture to reduce slip/falls. Then used soft sand patterns on specific areas. :]
If there is any area that is exposed to wear and tear, weather... is the deck. Hence x2 on deck for me when glassing.

 

[Pmt133]

The tighter the weave on the deck floor means less fairing. How do you plan on finishing the floor after glass? I only faired seems or overlaps. The rest I did not fair because I wanted the texture to reduce slip/falls. Then used soft sand patterns on specific areas. :]
If there is any area that is exposed to wear and tear, weather... is the deck. Hence x2 on deck for me when glassing.
View attachment 400131

View attachment 400132

View attachment 400133

First, love the empty bin in the last photo.

So as far as the deck, it's going back exactly the way it was, carpet over glass. I was thinking top coat it with gelcoat but I honestly don't see a need to do that as the carpet is the wear item. Originally I planned on glass and snap in or EVA bit I just couldn't make it look nice in my head. While polarizing, the carpet, if installed properly on a properly built boat, is no worse than anything else i suppose... the good stuff doesnt really hold any moisture and its quick drying when wet. Even after getting in and out all day on the old carpet, it was dry in a few minutes. And I didn't trust that I could get the deck good enough to look good. Thinking about it now, I could have pulled it off.

 

[kcassells]

Cool, that last empty bin is my LiveWell. Original and reinstalled as are all the side deck compartments. Couple weeks ago I wired in a hose wash pump with isolation vales to hose and LiveWell. Tested it out and man was I happy. Eventually will post just too much going on or that time related posting issue.
Look into the eva, seems to have overtaken the boat/carpet concept.
With the carpet/eva you could just prime and paint.

 

[Pmt133]

I like the EVA but after seeing the seadek, hydroturf, etc on friends boats at the marina and what little I have on the wave runner, 5 years is about all it seems to last for before it starts to look like crap if you use it... Ultimately I don't want to be redecking every 5-10 years at the price they charge for the stuff.

 

[kcassells]

So.. survey says... Carpet it is.

 

[Pmt133]

Hahaha. Sadly. I really like the teak look foam but on top of all that, they don't have a blue that works with the boat. And I still have the cabin and bulk heads to figure out. If it was a bow rider I'd be installing the EVA no questions and dealing with the consequences of my actions.

 

[Pmt133]

So I elevated the boat more and poured the foam. Seems to have come out pretty good. Tapping and feeling the deck it was warm all around and seems free of voids. I drilled a few extra pilot holes and hot foam there too so I'd say good on that as well.

All in all my math says I have about 1,600 lbs worth of floating in foam so far. Seems I'll end up around 2,000 lbs all said and done.

My next step is glass the deck and hopefully get the fuel tank so I can finish off the bulk heads. Nice thing when I lifted the boat was I heard no creaks or cracks. Just a smooth lift.

 

[Lou C]

You want the longest lasting deck? In the chronically damp Northeast? Well when we redid ours 17 years ago carpet was not an option (that’s what caused the rot in the first place by holding in moisture), sea deck might not have been on the market yet. So I had the ‘glass shop gel coat it in non skid gel coat. It still looks pretty good 17 years later! If I decide to keep it indefinitely I might have it redone again at year 20. I’m convinced this is the way to go if you live in a damp climate. No carpet & all deck penetrations sealed! Pretty much that’s how all open salt water boats are done….

 

[Pmt133]

I get it. But I am still pretty comfortable saying most of the rot stemmed from the open holes under the carpet in the deck to the foam. While I am not arguing that a wet carpet is bad up here... If the deck is built right and it's taken care of, I really can't see it being any worse. The fishing boat is gel.... this will be carpet. Maybe I'll kick my self for it down the line... or maybe it'll last just fine. I don't know.... And I am not afraid to say I am probably wrong.

I just can't make it right in my head with the gelcoat without snap in or something on it... too sterile.

 

[Lou C]

All the rot started under the helm seat pedestals & rear bench seats where the carpet kept it wet.
I had no idea how long this job would last but I have to say this boat has never been in inside storage; in the season it’s in the water with bow & cockpit covers and in winter it has a custom fit cover with a frame I built underneath it for when it snows. And it’s held up very well. The original construction with carpet was mostly rotted by the time it was 12-13 years old.