My 84 4winns horizon 195 project.

P

Pmt133

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 6, 2022
Messages
598
Today I reassembled the engine and test ran it. Now I need to figure out if I should stick with the 160 degree thermostat or swap to a 140...

A little background, being a gen I alpha, I swapped to the warm manifold setup which would normally use a 140 F thermostat... The engine is a Thunderbolt 5 era engine and I think, but am not sure, that the module accounts for coolant temperature.... So I have some research to do.
 
Lou C

Lou C

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 10, 2002
Messages
12,757
If you have the warm manifold set up I'd think you can go with either, if the cold manifolds I'd use a 160. My OMC/Volvo exhaust is essentially the same the cold manifold set up and when I tried a 140 stat I had condensation in the exhaust. And also the engine took forever to warm up, vs the 160 I normally use.
Salt or brackish water use? Some say the 140 is better but I used the 160 for many years in salt water and never had any clogging of cooling passages reputed to happen due to calcium dropping out of suspension from salt water. When I took mine apart there was slight evidence of calcium deposits, but no clogging. Here are my old heads, if you look closely you can see what looks like a bit of calcium deposits....but this is 15+ years of salt water use.
 

Attachments

  • 4.3 old cyl heads .JPG
    4.3 old cyl heads .JPG
    2.1 MB · Views: 4
P

Pmt133

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 6, 2022
Messages
598
Lou C said:
If you have the warm manifold set up I'd think you can go with either, if the cold manifolds I'd use a 160. My OMC/Volvo exhaust is essentially the same the cold manifold set up and when I tried a 140 stat I had condensation in the exhaust. And also the engine took forever to warm up, vs the 160 I normally use.
Salt or brackish water use? Some say the 140 is better but I used the 160 for many years in salt water and never had any clogging of cooling passages reputed to happen due to calcium dropping out of suspension from salt water. When I took mine apart there was slight evidence of calcium deposits, but no clogging. Here are my old heads, if you look closely you can see what looks like a bit of calcium deposits....but this is 15+ years of salt water use.
Click to expand...
So that's the thing... The drive being a gen 1 should have a warm manifold. It had the cold manifold setup which has been reported to cause issues with a gen I with overheating (it never did but I didn't use it that much...) The warm setup is supposed to use the 140 F. My issue is if the thunderbolt 5 ignition module is using coolant temp to play with timing... then I assume it wants to see the 160F operating temp.

And I am also thinking the water in my manifolds in the fall was due to exactly that... cold air and cold well water combined with the cold manifold setup. I poked the weird looking spot and it is just the casting of the head... I'm at a loss otherwise... just going to send it and see what happens. I'm pulling the manifolds off tomorrow to check for moisture. If they're dry, I am calling it good to go.

And yes, almost always in the salt lol.
 
P

Pmt133

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 6, 2022
Messages
598
Started stripping and painting transom parts this weekend... just trying to get as much done as possible.
20240607_163612.jpg20240607_163617.jpg20240608_173832.jpg
 
P

Pmt133

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 6, 2022
Messages
598
chevymaher said:
I remember mine looked that nice. In about 3 trips out it looks like everybody elses LOL. But hey it looks great now.
Click to expand...
I rattle canned it years ago with just normal flat back. Still looked good though the very bottom of the skeg had worn off. It'll look nice for a bit, I'm pretty careful about the shallow... famous last words...
 
P

Pmt133

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 6, 2022
Messages
598
Didn't take any photos today but sprayed the rest of the transom assembly and glued in the fuel tank floor.
 
P

Pmt133

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 6, 2022
Messages
598
Had intentions of doing some glass work today but the Hazmat pager went off so that ate up most of the day. I built a bracket to hold my remote oil filter to the block and grabbed 2 36 inch barrel fans... that should be enough ventilation imo...
 
P

Pmt133

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 6, 2022
Messages
598
So I'm having an internal battle here... I added these cross braces for where the deck will be seamed. (I've talked about this earlier)
20240702_141028.jpg
I'm starting to cut the deck out. On tear down there were 2 pieces of wood on each side that supported the seams of the deck. None of which were glassed in. So the boat only had 2 bulkheads on the fuel tank compartment. Since I'm leaving the plywood at 8 feet, I figure I only need the one seam at the back which I installed. I'm assuming I am overthinking this and should just send it? I was talking with dad and he agreed that if the cross pieces were just being held with foam and the notches in the top of the stringer that they weren't really structural... so I think I'm good to go as is lol.
 
P

Pmt133

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 6, 2022
Messages
598
So while I have you all here... For adhering the deck to the hull and stringers, should I do peanut butter/thickened resin or PL. First I was thinking PL but I am starting to think the resin may be a better choice as I can float it better since the PL doesn't like gaps as much....

Edit: and for that matter, I can tab in the deck that day with PB where the PL needs to off gas more.
 
T

todhunter

Canoeist
Joined
Sep 15, 2020
Messages
1,316
Use PB. Adjustable viscosity. Adjustable cure time. Make it with or without reinforcement. Compatible with what your boat is built from. There's no real reason to use anything else!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top