Milky fuel in carb intake force 85hp

[The Force power]

Understand, so I will assume that my rings are mislabeled then if I get real 39-817869A they should fit to my bores?

IF the bores have not changed when "cleaning" the cylinder-walls, then yes.
I would buy the piston you found on flEa-Bay & test this first
Verify with the piston/ring/bore chart

 

[lgaytan]

will do that, thanks!

 

[lgaytan]

oh one more thing, the ones I found in ebay are for another 1989 85HP outboard,,, mine should be F691015 and this ones are F372015-3, this ones according to this chart bore size are 0.001" bigger so I assume this pistons may be a little bit bigger, 0.001" seems nothing with the wear I measured after honnig my cylinders, connecting rods seems to be the same as mines, do you see any issue in trying those? the other difference I noticed in the specs is that this ones don't have tappered rings.



thanks

 

[The Force power]

oh one more thing, the ones I found in ebay are for another 1989 85HP outboard,,, mine should be F691015 and this ones are F372015-3, this ones according to this chart bore size are 0.001" bigger so I assume this pistons may be a little bit bigger, 0.001" seems nothing with the wear I measured after honnig my cylinders, connecting rods seems to be the same as mines, do you see any issue in trying those? the other difference I noticed in the specs is that this ones don't have tappered rings.

View attachment 394206

thanks

The main problem with honing cylinder-wall is that's almost impossible to get it laser straight, resulting in various clearances along the full length.
Man can only hope

 

[lgaytan]

ebay pistons ordered yesterday hope they are good. Once I got them, can a compression test be done without installing the block and head to the motor leg etc? I was thinking installing the pistons, head gasket, cylinder head. And the flywheel without stator/trigger to crank it, also the starter motor directly to the battery maybe?

Thanks

 

[Nordin]

Yes you can make a compression test without have the power head on the leg.
Jump starter direct from the battery or you connect the starter solenoid to the starter and jump the control voltage from the battery to the starter solenoid.
I would suggest you to mount the intake manifold on the power head before making the compression test.

 

[The Force power]

In addition to Nordin's instructions; I would secure the powerhead to a plank or something to stabilize it, because it will shake/twist

 

[lgaytan]

Finally got back to the motor this week end, I got new rings and some used pistons, all look good minor scratches hoping will work well, I have already installed the connecting rods to the crank, that was easier than I thought. Now I would like your suggestions for sealants and loctites to use, reading the srrvice manual it has some recommendations but I believe being 30+ years old this are outdated products.
What do you use for:
1. Loctite for caps screws - manual says loctite T-8936-1
2. sealant for Parting line seal - manual says T 8955
3. Sealant for crank case holes - manual T 8983

Thanks

 

[The Force power]

What do you use for:
1. Loctite for caps screws - manual says loctite T-8936-1
2. sealant for Parting line seal - manual says T 8955
3. Sealant for crank case holes - manual T 8983

Use as prescribed or equivalent.
Suggestion..... don't apply the loctite on the bolts for connecting-rod caps UNTIL you have a perfect fit, then remove & apply one by one

 

[lgaytan]

Thanks I have done some reading in other threads, I see suggested for cranck case sealing Loctite 518 I have already orderd that one.

 

[lgaytan]

So i just finished building up the motor today, and it fired up immediately, no hick ups or anything, but I noticed some drops of water leaking through the head gasket, I warmed it up and retightened a little higher than specs suggested, the leak stopped. Compression is now 105-110-105. Seems pretty well for me!
Thanks for all the support!

 

[lgaytan]

Any recommendations for taking it to the lake for the first time, should I run it with a higher gas/oil mixture? I've seen people suggesting 1:40 ratio or something like that.

 

[racerone]

Oil / gas mixtures are not well understood .----Most manuals would say 25:1 on a rebuild..------Hopefully you spent some time lining up the connecting rod caps.

 

[lgaytan]

I aligned the connecting rods until no separation line was visible, just had small issues with one of them but I disassembled and noticed some dirt in between, cleaned out and then reassembled and the separation line disappeared, I think that worked out good.
Now for the gas/oil mix 25:1 suggestion is just for the firts hours after the rebuild or will that be the standard now?

Thanks

 

[topgun3690]

I aligned the connecting rods until no separation line was visible, just had small issues with one of them but I disassembled and noticed some dirt in between, cleaned out and then reassembled and the separation line disappeared, I think that worked out good.
Now for the gas/oil mix 25:1 suggestion is just for the firts hours after the rebuild or will that be the standard now?

Thanks

https://maxrules.com/fixbreakin.html Might take a look at this info from MasterTech Marine.....is pretty thorough for breaking in a rebuilt PH.....

 

[lgaytan]

Good information thanks, I will follow this.

 

[topgun3690]

I have a factory manual.....it talks about break in procedures, but the MasterTech version was the one I used. It was more detailed and thorough than the manual was. The "Technical Help" and "Technical Specifications" sections have a lot of good info in there too......some of it specific to Force engines. They are also a good source for parts, too.

 

[Nordin]

Follow the Master Tech information about breaking in period.
I run 3-4% (33:1-25:1) oil mixture when breaking in a rebuilt engine.
Has worked out well all the time.
Use good quality TCW3 two stroke oil.
Then I have always mention in this forum and it applies to a newly rebuilt or a not rebuilt engine.
NEVER RUN THE HELL OUT OF AN OLD OB and it will last for a very long time if you maintain it well.

 

[lgaytan]

Thanks we'll see how this goes in a couple weeks that I will be able to go to the lake. I'm anxious for that.

 

[lgaytan]

random question, last part I installed is the "deflection stop" what is that for? I didn't see an obvious function for that. Item 20 below.