Milky fuel in carb intake force 85hp

[lgaytan]

Main jet for sea level-2500 FT should be 0,074.
2500-5000 FT should be 0,072.
It will not run well with a too small main jet.
I do not know if this have anything to do with your issue, but it will run lean with a 0,072 at lower sea level.
Think your main issue is water intrusion in 3 and 4 cylinder.

Agree I don't think the Jets are what is causing me the current issue, just wondering why it have more issues starting it at the lake than at home. I don't know what jets it has but I guess they are 0.074 as there are no lakes near my location and this boat has always been used at lower altitudes.

 

[racerone]

Outline your starting procedure in detail.----Is the battery good and load tested.-----Is the starter motor tested and in good condition ?

 

[gica]

Thanks, maybe I didnt explained myself very well, I can pull the throttle lever to accelerate without engaging the gears, this is I guess a function for cold starts, in that way I can accelerate up to 1600 RPM's that is the maximum it allows me to do with this function, everything looks good there with the hose or tank, very different in the lake. Now also I don't know how important is but my home is 4900 feet above sea level and the lake I use to go is roughly 1500, I usually have more issues starting it in the lake than at home, settings should be different I guess for this different altitudes.

So using the throttle only function and pushing it all tye way briefly in your little tank out of gear you only get 1600RPM?
I don't know if that is any better then 1200 in gear on the lake. Kind of the same. You shouldstick an endoscope camera after running it and look at tye pistons to see if you have any water. Here is a picture of mine. It's the number 4. The motor ran by itself was bogging down severely. Sounding like it was coughing up flam hahaha.
That altitude deal I am not sure about. Was your boat equipped for high altitude or not? I took a 97 Bayliner I/O carbureted to Lake Tahoe 6200 feet and I was ok with stock carb adjustment. So that should not prevent you from getting higher RPMs

 

[lgaytan]

Outline your starting procedure in detail.----Is the battery good and load tested.-----Is the starter motor tested and in good condition ?

Hi, racerone I usually put the throttle lever to Max accelerate out of gear, push the choke and keep it pushed while cranking. Battery and starter are in good condition, I see and hear them spinning at good speed, I was just mentioning that I see a difference in the cold starts in this different locations, not sure if the set up of the carbs or something has to be adjusted differently in each of them, I guess that is something I will have to deal living far away and in different altitude than where I can actually use my boat.

 

[lgaytan]

So using the throttle only function and pushing it all tye way briefly in your little tank out of gear you only get 1600RPM?
I don't know if that is any better then 1200 in gear on the lake. Kind of the same. You shouldstick an endoscope camera after running it and look at tye pistons to see if you have any water. Here is a picture of mine. It's the number 4. The motor ran by itself was bogging down severely. Sounding like it was coughing up flam hahaha.
That altitude deal I am not sure about. Was your boat equipped for high altitude or not? I took a 97 Bayliner I/O carbureted to Lake Tahoe 6200 feet and I was ok with stock carb adjustment. So that should not prevent you from getting higher RPMs

Thanks I will order an endoscope to take a look, having the haead leaking the first time I started up also makes me wonder, although right now I'm leaning more to the fuel pump issues but I guess is good to look every aspect of this "rebuild".

 

[lgaytan]

So I finally got the pump diaphragm, valves and some gaskets I thouvht were bad and rebuilt the pump, it fired up very quickly sounds good on muffs 1200 RPMs no issues would not Rev up more on muffs. I didnt get the boroscope so I rather took off the head again to have a look after warming up the motor, I did noticed some drops of water on cylinder 2 and 3, but they are perfect clean drops so I dont think they come from a leak, I think they just got there when taking the head off and some water comming from the block, there is no milky stuff I can see the fuel there is very blue so I think is no contaminated, what do you think?

 

[gica]

So I finally got the pump diaphragm, valves and some gaskets I thouvht were bad and rebuilt the pump, it fired up very quickly sounds good on muffs 1200 RPMs no issues would not Rev up more on muffs. I didnt get the boroscope so I rather took off the head again to have a look after warming up the motor, I did noticed some drops of water on cylinder 2 and 3, but they are perfect clean drops so I dont think they come from a leak, I think they just got there when taking the head off and some water comming from the block, there is no milky stuff I can see the fuel there is very blue so I think is no contaminated, what do you think?

View attachment 398821

Here is a picture of piston 4 on mine through a scope. At tyecenter you will see the clear water bubbles that look pretty clean. The milky stuffwasin the exhaust area on mine.

 

[lgaytan]

Thanks gica, it looks different to me eyes yours and mine, I'm gonna take a shot and take it to the lake again, hopefully it was only the pump. Crossing my fingers.