Agree I don't think the Jets are what is causing me the current issue, just wondering why it have more issues starting it at the lake than at home. I don't know what jets it has but I guess they are 0.074 as there are no lakes near my location and this boat has always been used at lower altitudes.
So using the throttle only function and pushing it all tye way briefly in your little tank out of gear you only get 1600RPM?
Hi, racerone I usually put the throttle lever to Max accelerate out of gear, push the choke and keep it pushed while cranking. Battery and starter are in good condition, I see and hear them spinning at good speed, I was just mentioning that I see a difference in the cold starts in this different locations, not sure if the set up of the carbs or something has to be adjusted differently in each of them, I guess that is something I will have to deal living far away and in different altitude than where I can actually use my boat.
Thanks I will order an endoscope to take a look, having the haead leaking the first time I started up also makes me wonder, although right now I'm leaning more to the fuel pump issues but I guess is good to look every aspect of this "rebuild".
Here is a picture of piston 4 on mine through a scope. At tyecenter you will see the clear water bubbles that look pretty clean. The milky stuffwasin the exhaust area on mine.
Great. So now we can rule out the fuel hoses, priming bulb and clogged suction fuel pipe. Have you installed a clear fuel filter between the fuel pump outlet to the carbs' inlet? This is a very good and cheap troubleshooting tool for fuel related problems. A $5 Fram G2 or G3 will suffice.
I had one of those filters before but took it out, I will put a new one now. I have another lake trip this weekend so I need to do this cleaning during this week to have the chance to go there and test. I'll post results.
Forgot to mention when I was in the rebuild process I took a look to the reeds and all seemed to be closing except for one, you could see a tiny light through, but I believe its in the acceptable range.
On your next trip to the lake, try running the motor without the cowling cover and see if this makes a difference. And at the same time able to see the fuel filter if it stays at least half full. Other thing to watch for, the tower linkage movement with the carb ties and those wires that runs to the stator and trigger. It's possible at a certain position, a wire or two is rubbing against ground, thus stopping the engine.
"It ran better . . ." does that mean it ran fully at WOT? or at least attained 4000 RPM? If so then the problem could be exhaust leak. But it is rather hard to diagnose exhaust leaks on the driveway unless you are using a large barrel of water. Using a garden hose alone will not identify the exhaust leak. So you might want to include that in your check list on your next trip to the lake. Exhaust leaks usually by the upper and bottom connection, exhaust manifold or even the exhaust relief hose (two holes at the back of the mid-leg.
