Merc Outboard - 2 Year Old Engine Failure, 5 Year Extended Warranty Denied

racerone

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Was at a shop recently.-----Saw a Mercury lower unit in the scrap bin.----Took it home to see if I could salvage the drive and propshafts.----No attempt was made by the dealer to take it apart.-----" Sell a new one " is the way to satisfy the consumer.-----No risk to the shop and profit.------The cost of shop labor is going up while computerized factory time / labor / shipping is going down.
 

boscoe99

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Doesn't take much to bend a rod in one of these engines. Yeah, the piston skirts hits the crank counterweights and that's what makes the "ticking" noise. But as long as nothing breaks off and comes flying thru the block the engine is rebuildable. As it is, if the OP buys the powerhead from Mercury it will be a reman. His old engine goes back to Mercury as a core, they'll fix it and sell it to somebody else as a factory reman.

I'm afraid the OP's options are limited. If it was mine I'd tell the dealer to put it all in a box and I want it back. Buy a used piston and rod off eBay (people are selling 'em out of blown powerheads that are being parted out), put it back together and get it running, then trade it on a Honda or Yamaha. On a party barge I'd probably put a Honda on it because they are super-smooth and quiet and who cares how fast it goes.

For someone who can't rebuild the engine, then you're limited to buying a remanufactured powerhead for it.

You can go to the service manager at the dealership and demand to know why they won't fix it, and instead want to sell a reman powerhead. They'll feed you a line about why they can't do that, but the real reason is because if they put it back together then they own it if it fails again.
Would you make a few hundred dollars repairing a motor while incurring thousands of dollars in risk? I don't blame a dealer at all. He has better ways of making money with less risk.
 

racerone

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Some shops are faced with say $25,000 per year in property tax alone.-----That would be $80 / business day , if it was not a seasonal area.----Now how much in sales would you have to do each day to make those $80 ???-----Cost of tools , service school , parts inventory , trucks , fuel wages ETC , ETC.-----They need to generate revenue.-----Can't survive having 3 mechanics rebuilding these modern 4 strokes.
 

QBhoy

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You know what… all I can say is that I’ve always been a 2 stroke Yamaha and merc fan…and rightly so…but now having put 1100 hours on this particular 2.1l merc 115…and without any issue whatsoever…I can’t deny how reliable it’s been. I also know that to rebuild a Yamaha 2 strike v4/v6 of the old school…it costs you more in parts alone…than the engine is worth. That’s a fact…unfortunately.
 

jimmbo

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The Past several Years, the Engine Manufacturers are placing Premium Pricing on the old 2 Stroke Parts, simply because they are trying to get Boaters to switch to less Environmentally Harmful Motors...
 

QBhoy

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The Past several Years, the Engine Manufacturers are placing Premium Pricing on the old 2 Stroke Parts, simply because they are trying to get Boaters to switch to less Environmentally Harmful Motors...
I don’t doubt it. Such a shame. Unfortunately, this very thing, was the reason I didn’t overhaul a lovely Yamaha v4 on the old glastron cvx. It was half the price for me to buy another boat with a merc 150 v6 on it, to transplant into the cvx. Then sell the hull and trailer, leaving the cost of the engine to only a few hundred quid.
 

jimmbo

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I love the old 2 Strokes, great Powerband for quick Acceleration, great smelling burnt Oil, and the Bonus of keeping Mosquitos at bay, especially with 16:1
 

dingbat

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The Past several Years, the Engine Manufacturers are placing Premium Pricing on the old 2 Stroke Parts, simply because they are trying to get Boaters to switch
Don’t buy that….Spare parts business is the most lucrative in a company.

I don’t want anybody switching. I want to keep selling high margin spares as long as possible.

Reduced spares volume are killing the pricing. As a manufacturer I know all too well how the cost per parts goes up exponentially when you reduce volume.

Had an instance last week Purchasing came to me with the cost on a simple fabricated/machined box.

Quantity 1 = $2,270 each. If I bought 5 the cost dropped to $718 each

Setup charges where the same no matter how many we bought……but I only needed 1 to fill the order of a two-of part
 
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jimmbo

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As the supply of Service Parts dries up, the price will also go up. I still see outboards from the 50s and 60s in use on a regular Basis. Sheeze<sp>, the things are 60 and 70 yrs old. Unfortunately, we humans need not only Air and Water to survive, but a Habitable Place to Live, and this Little Planet, is our Only Home
 

jengel

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Jun 10, 2022
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I have a few very interesting updates. I got my boat back yesterday and launched it. All it took was a $9,027 check. A little less than I had expected, so I was actually surprised. Final kick in the balls was that I had filled the tank before launching it. Tank had been siphoned dry by the time I picked it up. I had the boat out in my driveway a few days before taking it to the dealer, so the gas could have been taken then, so I can't blame anyone for that. So, $163 later, I was gassed up again.

When this first happened, I was shocked and trying to figure out what the cause was. I had kind of come to the conclusion that the engine got too deep when launching, but was never able to verify that because the boat was at the dealer. I can tell you, that was NOT what happened. This time when I launched, I had the wife take video and pictures, and there is no way the engine got that deep. The lowest cylinder is roughly even with the lowest part of the engine cover. The water was at least 18 inches below that at the deepest point. Even if I backed in super fast, water would not have risen that high. Here you can see the water mark on the engine after launching. We backed it in an out a few times just to make sure.

1655586094845.png

This is about where that line is from the side where you can see the lowest point of the cover. No way water got that high launching it. For water to have risen to be level with the lowest cylinder, it would have to be over the back of my boat, and I am certain that has never happened, at least while launching it on calm water.

1655586206428.png

So, now my options are getting really interesting. Did the place that winterized it blow it up? Perhaps they put fogging oil or regular oil or something in the cylinder and it didn't cause a problem until I tried to start it. It did not rain the night I had it in my driveway between when I picked it up and launched if the next day, so it wasn't caused from rain ingestion. Maybe there was a leaky injector and gas flooded the engine so that when I turned the key, it hydro-locked? I know the odds of that happening are remote, but I think this whole situation is extremely unlikely to have happened, so one of these crazy things had to have happened.

Oh, and my frustration and disgust with Merc continues. I wrote them last Wednesday when they declined to cover the failure. I had not heard a word back more than a week later, so on Thursday, I sent another email and just asked if they had even received my correspondence. They responded right away that they had received my email, and had responded via US mail and I should hear back by the end of the week. Well, the Saturday mail just arrived, and I still have NOTHING. I mean, why use snail mail anyhow? What kind of customer service is it to not even send back one of those automated messages like "We got your email and will return your inquiry when we can" so I didn't have to follow up again and ask? Do they not care or respect how short the boating season is here in Minnesota? I mean, do they not care about customer service enough to get back to people in less than 2 weeks? Pretty sad. Just seems like a really bush league stalling technique aimed to accomplish one thing, wear me down so I give up. You can say what you want about whether you think the engines are good, but this is poor customer service no matter how you slice it.

By the way, any idea how to get that white/powdery residue off the engine?
 
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racerone

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White powder?-----Use a good auto polish / wax.----Best to use ladies underwear and rub vigorously.
 

jimmbo

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A mild Acid like vinegar will likely remove it, then as suggested above, a good coat of wax. If you do the Ladies Underwear route, it is recommended that you remove the lady from them first
 

chris.olson

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Maybe there was a leaky injector and gas flooded the engine so that when I turned the key, it hydro-locked? I know the odds of that happening are remote, but I think this whole situation is extremely unlikely to have happened, so one of these crazy things had to have happened.

Not as remote as you think. I saw this happen to a 90 (same powerhead) while it was running. However, it's fairly apparent. The float switch in the FSM won't shut off the low pressure pump. And if you pull the sparks plugs it'll blow raw gas out the plug hole.

As I said before, it was most likely flooded with oil during the "fogging".
 

jimmbo

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I suspected that too, but difficult to prove. I suspect the Shop knew it too. However there are some very Unethical Businessmen out there
 

QBhoy

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If you can prove that put oil down it…you’re onto a winner. The manual doesn’t say to do this at all these days.
 

chris.olson

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Actually, Mercury does say to remove the plugs and spray 1 ounce of fogging oil in the plug holes (5 seconds in each one), then turn the engine two complete revolutions before re-installing the plugs. IMO this doesn't do a dang thing except convince you to buy a $20 can of their Quicksilver storage seal.
 

jengel

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Jun 10, 2022
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Actually, Mercury does say to remove the plugs and spray 1 ounce of fogging oil in the plug holes (5 seconds in each one), then turn the engine two complete revolutions before re-installing the plugs. IMO this doesn't do a dang thing except convince you to buy a $20 can of their Quicksilver storage seal.
1655747206041.png

Interesting. So if they did this (sprayed for approximately 5 seconds) and then installed the plugs without turning it over, would this be enough oil to cause hydro lock? I am still not sure how to proceed. Is there any way to to prove or show what happened now that the powerhead has been replaced?
 

jengel

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Could spraying fogging oil for 5 seconds cause hydro lock if they didn't crank it with the plugs out afterwards? Maybe they sprayed it for 10 seconds and forgot to crank it? I'm still trying to figure out how my engine was destroyed because I have pretty much excluded every other option. I still think it's very curious that the winterization place didn't charge me for, or perform, the oil change I requested with the winterization. Why would they not take the easy money and do that service instead of saying that the oil looked good so they didn't bother and wanted to save me the $'s? It's very fishy. But, if they blew up the engine during the fogging process, I can see them thinking "let's not waste his money on an oil change". It is all just so strange. Anybody have recommendations on how they would even approach the shop? Do I just get a lawyer to write a letter, go to them and ask them if they would please give me $9,000 to fix my engine, go with a tape recorder and ask what their winterization process is to see if they admit to something wrong (MN is a one party consent state, so it would be legal to do so I believe)?
 

Cortes100

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Apr 30, 2006
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179
FWIW, I like to add oil into the cylinder when doing the winterization. With the plugs out, it shouldn't matter how you spin the engine. However, as per my Merc paperwork, "turn engine over manually".

I would have a problem with the original denial, I still don't see proof of water ingestion. There are other possibilities, so how does Merc stand behind that?
Keep fighting, maybe something will come from this? Over the years, I've contacted Merc several times, and they've always been prompt with their answers.
 
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