I have returned... with a Starcraft this time!

frazoo

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 13, 2017
Messages
198
Wow, that's pretty neat, looks like a winner for sure! Heading to HF tomorrow with a super coupon in hand for a compressor, my Sprayit should be here the 15th. Thanks for posting the vid!
 

oscarvan

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Mar 28, 2018
Messages
87
OK, there's a technique to the spraying. You don't pull the trigger while aiming at the work and not moving. This will get more paint in some spots that others.... and next thing you know the kid will be stripping again. You start outside the work. if possible, and with the trigger pulled and at a steady pace go over the work, past it THEN let go of the trigger. Again, there's a rhythm to it... let me see if I can find a video.

Good stuff here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P_9WQmicyJU
 
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BWR1953

Admiral
Joined
Jan 23, 2009
Messages
6,111
The LVLP gun worked really well. Almost no overspray and laid the material down nicely. No big clouds of paint hanging in the air.

Cleanup was a little tougher than when I used the rattle cans... which I simply threw into the trash! :lol:

Tomorrow I'll know how well the gray primer worked over top of the SE primer. I saw that I had a couple of dry spots and a couple of wet spots. But that's more about me being a rookie painter than anything to do with the gun or the paint.

We'll see how things look in the daylight tomorrow. Keeping my fingers crossed. ;)



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BWR1953

Admiral
Joined
Jan 23, 2009
Messages
6,111
Wow, that's pretty neat, looks like a winner for sure! Heading to HF tomorrow with a super coupon in hand for a compressor, my Sprayit should be here the 15th. Thanks for posting the vid!
Yeah, that 25% off Mother's Day coupon could come in real handy!

My compressor only has an 8 gallon tank, so if you can swing it, I'd go bigger than that.
 

BWR1953

Admiral
Joined
Jan 23, 2009
Messages
6,111
Boo-yah! We have primer! :rockon:

I went out first thing this morning to check status and the primer is dry, smooth and flat! No interaction with the SE primer like I had with the rattle can variant. The LVLP spray gun did the job. Yay! :D

Just waiting on the weather now. Humidity is high but I'm hopeful that it'll drop as the day warms up.

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BWR1953

Admiral
Joined
Jan 23, 2009
Messages
6,111
Got to work and then ran outta paint! D'oh! :doh:

But we made good progress thus far and I'm lovin' me some LVLP!! :friendly_wink:

Having lunch now while watching fishing shows and after we finish eating we'll go buy more paint so that we can get back at it later.

Here's where we are now.

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BWR1953

Admiral
Joined
Jan 23, 2009
Messages
6,111
Hey guys, do I need to mask off the hull where it will be black before I put on the white color coat? Any white overspray will be covered by the black anyway.

Since I'll be painting the black on after the white, is it acceptable to just leave it unmasked while I'm doing the color coats? It would sure save me some time (and materials) if I could skip masking that area. I know that I'll have to mask off the accent stripe later.

The black/white separation of which I speak:
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Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,775
Nice work, looking forward to seeing the KF in her new dress!

For painting accent stripes you paint the whole boat the base color and then mask off for the accent stripe.
 

oscarvan

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Mar 28, 2018
Messages
87
I would not mask at this point. 1: you won't mask perfectly and there would be "butt" edges in the paint where water can get in and start lifting the edge, there even may be a pathway to raw aluminum. 2: Like you said, a lot of time. 3: Doesn't hurt to have a little extra paint on the waterline.

In fact, I would paint the whole thing white, 3 coats, maybe a little thinner where the black will go and then add one or two black for pretty. Mask ONCE and have VERY good coverage everywhere.
 

nrf414

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Feb 16, 2008
Messages
573
Woohoo man looking real good. Like others I said I would not do any masking for the main base.

and I would probably do two coats of black if not three.
 

mbroughton02

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jan 17, 2015
Messages
198
You'll get good at cleaning that gun. It still takes me 10-15 minutes and a lot of mineral spirits, but it's mindless after doing it so many times.
 

BWR1953

Admiral
Joined
Jan 23, 2009
Messages
6,111
This is how the boat looks on this rainy morning. No painting today.

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Monmouth00

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Nov 26, 2017
Messages
198
Man it feels good to actually lay down some paint, doesn't it?

I'll agree with everyone above - paint the whole boat a base color, then go back to do your black sections over top.

As far as masking goes, get really good masking materials. If you do go with just the blue tape from Home Depot, get the good stuff. I can't tell you how frustrating it is to look at a perfect line that's interrupted by a glob of paint that snuck under cheap tape.

It's why the pinstriping on the tiop and bottom of my strip will be covered over with vinyl. No matter how careful I was, the lines needed to be touched up - and still aren't perfect.

Keep up the good work!
 

BWR1953

Admiral
Joined
Jan 23, 2009
Messages
6,111
Yep, it's definitely good to get paint onto the boat. :)

And I'm going to sand some of it off! My inexperience with the spray gun left some minor issues which I'll have to correct.

I've also decided to skip using the catalyst/hardener for the paint. I spent a lot of time today reading about isocyanates and it's just too risky for me.

While researching the isocyanate issue, I came across a bunch of negative comments/reviews of the Majic paint as well. Dunno what I'll do about that, if anything.

I don't have the correct type of PPE for use with the isocyanate hardener and buying such isn't worth the cost to me.

ppe.jpg
 

Monmouth00

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Nov 26, 2017
Messages
198
While researching the isocyanate issue, I came across a bunch of negative comments/reviews of the Majic paint as well. Dunno what I'll do about that, if anything.


Continue on your course. There will be negative reviews for just about everything, and changing now will just waste more of your time. People here have used it, and are happy with it. Stick to your (paint) guns.

As far as the toxic stuff - I agree. I thought about hardener too, but didn't want to mess with isocyanates. Easily scratched paint is easier to deal with than lung disease.

I painted my boat with the Duralux and the Rusto Professional, without hardener. I've taken my thumbnail to it and neither will scratch. Unfortunately, it doesn't resist scratches from the end of a rivet tool that slips after the rivet pops. But, oh well. Touch ups. Whatever.
 

BWR1953

Admiral
Joined
Jan 23, 2009
Messages
6,111
Well, it's raining today and humidity is 96% again. I suppose I could be out there sanding but don't feel like it without a chaperone around. Maybe I'll go out after the boy gets home from school. :rolleyes:

We cancelled our vacation plans and got a full refund on the rental. My wife decided to just take a 4 day weekend instead and I really, really did not want to go without a boat. And my health is a factor too. I have more doc appointments coming up (including tomorrow) and will know more in a couple weeks about what their recommendations are.

Meanwhile... boat status!

I'm still learning about spray painting and have a long way to go. When I was painting the other night the weather was perfect; mid 80s with 45% humidity. But my technique wasn't so great, partly due to my inexperience but also somewhat due to my physical limitations. If I tried painting beyond my normal reach by stepping sideways, my gait was messed up and I'd get a heavy spot with the paint. There were a fair number of those but I only found one after the paint dried.

A couple things that I got wrong... I sometimes had an angle on the gun as I stretched to reach the center of the hull at the keel. The results were "dry" spots which are a little rough and will need to be sanded.

And while I did use an inline pressure gauge which I set to 36 PSI, I set it without pulling the trigger! Didn't know that I was supposed to be sure the trigger was down. :facepalm:

To correct the high angle issue I'll probably have to lower the boat somehow so that I can get a "normal" angle to the hull bottom. Might rig up some concrete blocks on the HF dollies so that the boat is lower but mobile. That way I can roll it outside after the initial drying time and once the sun returns. :cool: Setting the trigger properly will be easy. Duh.

Let me also make a correction. I'd mentioned previously that my compressor was OFF more than it was ON while I was using the LVLP gun. That's backwards! The compressor was ON more than it was OFF. So with the incorrect trigger setting, I may have been using a very low pressure while spraying and the compressor motor was running. D'oh. :doh:

All that being said, I am very pleased with how well the LVLP gun worked! Even with the thick primer, the coverage was pretty good except where I was too far from the hull surface or slanted at an angle. The console came out very well. Most of the hull too. I have no doubt that the experienced guys here could really make that LVLP gun rock and roll. :sad:

Another thing I saw is that with the high viscosity unthinned primer, I couldn't get a fan larger than about 6 or 8 inches. That could be due to my inexperience though. When I was testing and cleaning with acetone the fan was much larger, probably 12 to 14 inches. I expect that when using thinned paint that the fan will be considerably larger than with the primer.
 
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frazoo

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 13, 2017
Messages
198
Based on the pictogram of PPE for the isocyanates, you need a SCBA?
Good luck with the appointments, hope everything works out well for you.
 

BWR1953

Admiral
Joined
Jan 23, 2009
Messages
6,111
From what I've read and seen on videos, only a Positive Air Pressure Respirator will work well enough. Even that is only something like 97% effective if I recall correctly.

I think I read that a SCBA might work under some very specific circumstances but I can't find the link. I read a lot about it yesterday but didn't save everything.

This is more like what is recommended, plus a full suit and gloves, etc.

https://industrialsafety.com/3m-tr-...70NSvTp88SgD4_r1c5Z4FPAG8Fbg7lehoCrcgQAvD_BwE

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