I have returned... with a Starcraft this time!

[BWR1953]

It rained all morning here and my energy level was low, so not much done today.

But this evening the boy and I went out and did a little.

I sanded down the lump of JBWW on the hull that some PO had put on there. Nice and smooth now.



Console cleaned with stripper and mineral spirits. Final cleaning to follow later.

 

[ShoestringMariner]

Worked on the boat today. Got the trolling motor wiring all tidied up and stowed correctly out of sight. Repositioned the battery under the console and got that secured to the deck and the trolling motor wiring connected. Even used marine grade heat shrink tubing!

My wife came out and got started on the seating cleanup. Made a huge difference in how they looked! She used standard household cleaner with bleach and also waterless hand cleaner which also worked very well.

We were having such a good time out there working as a team on the boat that we ended up having lunch onboard. Pretty cool.

And I NEEDED the relaxation since I'd spent 4 hours in the ER yesterday and had a full heart attack workup! :blue: Results came back okay and no heart trouble, but that just meant that it was either one of my currently existing health problems or a side effect of reducing dosage of the medicine I have to take in order to keep the health problem at bay. The doc just couldn't tell me what it was! Arrghh!! :faint2:

But we're going fishing in the morning so that should help!

Took a ton of pix while working on the boat today.

M'lady cleaning the boat seats




Nice and tidy and lots more foot room up front.


Rerouted the power leads from the rear of the trolling motor pedal to the front. Made it easier to then route them in the front of the boat.


Used 10 feet of new wire by routing it along the bow post and up inside the top rail on the bow, then down the starboard side gunnel to the console.


Used lots of cable ties plus the wire mounting tabs. Fresh marine grade butt connectors with water proof heat shrink tubing joined the wires.


Before cleaning. Plenty moldy!


And after... sparkly clean!


Really dirty.


Really clean!


A place to stow the anchor behind the bow post.


Tidy. In a later Phase I will likely reconfigure this area again.


Neat and tidy. Ready to fish!

What is the cleaner behind the fast orange? The seats came up perfect

 

[BWR1953]

I wasn't expecting to get anything done today but things turned out better than I'd expected!

At 7:30 this morning it was 64 degrees and 98% humidity. Not good for painting.

I had to run medical errands anyway, so wasn't too disappointed. But while I was out running around, I could feel the humidity dropping. After lunch, the humidity had dropped to 55% so I headed out to the garage.

I formed a JBWW patch for a hull gouge.


JBWW in place. A little too thick, but it was on there.




For this part, I need some advice! There are a few small areas on the bow plate where the sealant was partly removed or messed up when the boat was stripped. It's like a flexible gasket material and I need to plug the gaps.


I have this PC7 epoxy paste which will easily work to fill the gap, but I'm not sure how much flexing it can take. I also have 3M 5200 sealant but am concerned that it will run out if I push it into the gaps. SUGGESTIONS?

 

[BWR1953]

What is the cleaner behind the fast orange? The seats came up perfect

I can't see the pix in your quote. What was the page number and date? I can look it up.

 

[ShoestringMariner]

Page 20 post 300. Household cleaner with bleach...just bathroom cleaner?

 

[BWR1953]

Page 20 post 300. Household cleaner with bleach...just bathroom cleaner?

All purpose cleaner with bleach.

 

[Watermann]

Filling that gap with anything runny then you'll need gravity to help out while it cures or your right it'll just run out. I don't think that the keel plate seam will flex. try your epoxy stuff.

 

[BWR1953]

Filling that gap with anything runny then you'll need gravity to help out while it cures or your right it'll just run out. I don't think that the keel plate seam will flex. try your epoxy stuff.

Thanks! Will do.

 

[BWR1953]

Arrrggghhh!!! The regular primer "pilled" up in several areas over the SE primer again! :yell:

It's not as bad as what happened with the filler primer, but it's bad enough. The only thing I can think of is that the propellant in the rattle can is reacting with the SE primer and causing it to "mix" a little on contact if the SE isn't totally dried, cured and hard.

I'd waited 5.5 - 6 hours from the time I applied the SE before applying the regular primer last evening. And the SE primer was clean and smooth.

This morning I checked and the pilling had occurred again. It could be sanded down but I didn't bother. I just shot a little more regular primer over the pilled areas to see how it acted. I'll check on it later.

Sorry, no pix this time. I was too unhappy. :mad-new:

 

[BWR1953]

Trying once more.

The boy stripped all the paint off the console yet again. He was not thrilled. Poor guy.


The dark areas are where the primer pilled up.


I wet sanded using 2000 grit W/D paper which did help smooth things down a bit, but still not enough. So I bought an assortment of W/D sandpaper.


Roller and primer at the ready.


I rolled on a thin coat of the primer with the foam roller. This primer takes 24 hours to dry fully. We'll know more tomorrow about how well this will work.

 

[Watermann]

I'd skip that filler primer, really it seems to be reacting with the SE and really isn't needed, you can paint over the SE just fine.

 

[BWR1953]

Well, I was pretty bummed about the paint situation yesterday. Didn't improve a lot when I went back out there this morning either. :grumpy:

The rolled on primer didn't cause any major problems and didn't react with the SE primer. However...

Even though the rolled on primer didn't cause the SE primer to pill up, it didn't lay down completely flat like the SE primer did. I could see little marks left behind by the foam roller. The paint just didn't flow out. I didn't thin it at all and used it straight out of the can. Maybe that would make a difference. But at this point it doesn't really matter. I won't be using it.




I thoroughly cleaned the console and painted part of it with SE Primer. It came out nice and smooth and flat once more. I think I'm finally getting the hang of using the SE in the rattle can. Practice makes perfect I guess.

 

[Decker83]

The 2 primers should be compatible with each other. Made by the same company.. :noidea:
Did the gray primer spray good, or did it sputter a bit? Like Watermann said, you can paint over the se primer.
I used the rusto clean metal primer over my se primer. I sprayed mine with a hvlp spray gun.

On the seam in your pic ^^^ I used 3m 5200 quick dry. It will work as long as you paint over it.. I have seen some of the other gentlemen here put tape down on each side of the seam before they applied the 5200. Then after they finished
using a rag soaked in paint thinner to smooth out the 5200 they just pulled the tape off and left a smooth clean bead of 5200..

 

[BWR1953]

The 2 primers should be compatible with each other. Made by the same company.. :noidea:
Did the gray primer spray good, or did it sputter a bit? Like Watermann said, you can paint over the se primer.
I used the rusto clean metal primer over my se primer. I sprayed mine with a hvlp spray gun.

On the seam in your pic ^^^ I used 3m 5200 quick dry. It will work as long as you paint over it.. I have seen some of the other gentlemen here put tape down on each side of the seam before they applied the 5200. Then after they finished
using a rag soaked in paint thinner to smooth out the 5200 they just pulled the tape off and left a smooth clean bead of 5200..

The gray primer sprayed just as well as the SE. The problem is very perplexing but I'm moving on now. No time to waste. Going to return the excess gray primer cans tomorrow. I'm stuck with the roll on primer but might be able to use it for other projects around the garage.

I don't have an HVLP gun or a compressor/tank big enough to run one, so that option is nonexistent for me. Not worth buying or renting such equipment for a single use.

Tomorrow I'll paint a test area directly over the SE primer to see how it rolls out once thinned per WoodonGlass's method.

 

[BWR1953]

I think I'm in trouble. out:

I mixed up a small batch of the Majic white paint with hardener and reducer at the correct ratios and let it "cook" as shown in the WoG method.

I used two foam rollers and applied a thin coat as directed. Time was about 1130. Temp was 80 degrees, humidity 70%.

And the paint looks like chicken skin!! Lots of little bubbles. :grumpy:

Drying time is 5 - 10 hours. Recoat time is 24 hours.

I still have some paint left, if anyone has any suggestions...


Paint thoroughly mixed.


Hardener and reducer added.


After first rolling. Chicken skin!

 

[classiccat]

It's hard to tell from the pictures but the "chicken skin" appear to be bubbles from the foam roller.

I have limited experience rolling+tipping (in my case, 2-part paint), tipping with a high-quality badger hair brush would get rid of those bubbles. With the rustoleum (1-part), you'll need it thinned properly.

 

[BWR1953]

It's hard to tell from the pictures but the "chicken skin" appear to be bubbles from the foam roller.

I have limited experience rolling+tipping (in my case, 2-part paint), tipping with a high-quality badger hair brush would get rid of those bubbles. With the rustoleum (1-part), you'll need it thinned properly.

Yes, I believe that the bubbles are from the foam roller which has a zero nap. Maybe I should use a different roller? I'm using the Majic tractor paint (not Rusto) for the color. I'm using the roll and roll method.

I just went out and the chicken skin is still there 75 minutes after application.
:blue:

 

[BWR1953]

I sent up a flare and called for backup. Help is on the way! More info later...

 

[Watermann]

Get some 1 quart paint mixing containers at Home Depot that have the measurements on the side and a lid that seals so it can cook without reducer evaporating.

The roller was too dry, it has to be loaded so the paint will lay down, you can do that with a spray gun too, it's called orange peel and with the roller you have to use the brush to lightly tip behind it and flatten out the remaining bubbles. All of that's why I use a HVLP, I can't do the roller thing.

Watch some more videos :lol:

 

[BWR1953]

Get some 1 quart paint mixing containers at Home Depot that have the measurements on the side and a lid that seals so it can cook without reducer evaporating.

The roller was too dry, it has to be loaded so the paint will lay down, you can do that with a spray gun too, it's called orange peel and with the roller you have to use the brush to lightly tip behind it and flatten out the remaining bubbles. All of that's why I use a HVLP, I can't do the roller thing.

Watch some more videos :lol:

Yeah, I know about HVLP... but I'm not spending $500 on a new compressor/tank/gun system. Simply not an option. And I don't have any skills to go with said system and no time to experiment with a variety of tips and whatnot. Tomorrow is 5 weeks until vacation starts. And it would be a single use anyway. Not worth the expense and additional time.

The good news is that my buddy is going to spray the boat for me with HIS compressor and HVLP gun! Right here in my garage.

I have to prep the boat first, then paint it with the SE primer so that all he has to do is come in and spray.

QUESTION: since my buddy is going to spray with his equipment, should I have him paint the gray primer from the quart can as well? Everything I read with few exceptions says that SE needs a coat of regular primer before adding the topcoat. And when I rolled it on top of the SE primer it didn't seem to react like the rattle can stuff did.

Or should I just go with the SE alone?