Chaparral 2000 SL Sport floor, and more?? [SPLASHED Sept 2017]

[kcassells]

Hairy pb will do just fine and feather it down of course. May take a couple runs but will be fine.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

No Title

Are you sure about that? When I did my transom, I thought I read their specs to say that outer surface had to be perfectly flat. I thought the 1/16" allowable variance was in the thickness, but the outer mounting surface had to be flat. I don't think I'd be happy with a 1/16" gap on the outer surface. Those gasket on the gimbal housing isn't that big and it's pretty soft. I would not want to count on one to seal much of a gap.

Yes, I'm positive. I posted a page out of my Alpha sterndrive installation manual. It contains all the specs and tolerances.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Do you think you bowed the transom when you installed the new core (wood) ? I too thought that the transom had to be flat, but the inside and outside surfaces within 1/16" of parallel and nowhere over 2" thick.

Always a possibility I guess. I tried to prevent that by extending my clamps as far as I could under the swim deck. I used 2x4s as clamps running my allthread through the width of the boards. Unfortunately no way of knowing now, since I didn't take measurements before hand. I just have to fix it. Mercruiser specs state parallel, between 2" to 2-1/4" thick.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Hairy pb will do just fine and feather it down of course. May take a couple runs but will be fine.

Hairy PB is a pain in the donkey to sand and smooth. I could always put surfacing wax in it I guess. since I only need 1/8" at the thickest, I was thinking of using Bondo body filler or Woodonglass faring compound. I need something that sands nice I'll go over the area with gelcoat.

 

[JASinIL2006]

Yes, I'm positive. I posted a page out of my Alpha sterndrive installation manual. It contains all the specs and tolerances.

You are correct...

I recall reading a topic where someone was fixing just this sort of problem... I can't remember which iboats member was doing the work. He found a solution, but if I recall, it was a fair amount of work. You might try doing a search in this forum to see if you can locate it. I'll try to see if I can find it, too.

 

[kcassells]

Fiberglassed reinforced PB and Baloons may get the trick done fer ya. Need a serious bond not a filler.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

No Title

Quicksilver parts flying in this place today. Gimbal housing to transom seals, studs and bolt anode kit. Still can't get over the price of this anode kit!! $50.00 for two freaking aluminum bolts!! Also got all the parts for the fuel tank today, including $100.00 in rubber hoses! Break Out Another Thousand baby!!

 

[JASinIL2006]

Welcome to the club!

 

[Baylinerchuck]

No Title

Made up my first batch of faring compound tonight. I made it a little thicker so it didn't slide off the transom. Seemed to work really well so far. I'll see how it sands tomorrow morning. I imagine I'll need a thinner coat to fare out imperfections in the first coat.

I also noticed how hard the gimbal housing was pressing into the gel coat at the top and bottom of the keyhole. This tells me that the transom was probably out of spec from the factory.

 

[tpenfield]

I recall in my use of fairing powders and compounds that some/many of them are not recommended for use below the water line. Just want to point that out to be sure you are using the right stuff.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

I recall in my use of fairing powders and compounds that some/many of them are not recommended for use below the water line. Just want to point that out to be sure you are using the right stuff.

Yes I was definitely afraid of that. I would have liked to use body puddy, but didn't think it could be used below the waterline. I used WOGs formula of poly resin, phenolic bubbles, a little cabosil to bring it to the right consistency, and surfacing wax. I didn't see anything in the ingredients of this compound that I would be worried with under the waterline. Thanks to Woodonglass for this formula. He taught me something new.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

No Title

Capping stringers and bulkheads.......what a pain. Also doing some sanding on the transom. Faring compound is working good.

 

[ezmobee]

Looking real good! You ever go to Lake Raystown?

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Looking real good! You ever go to Lake Raystown?

Yep sure do. I like to put in at the Weaver Falls ramp. That end of the lake is pretty tame. I haven't been on it with the Chap yet. We spend most of our time on the Potomac River.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

No Title

Just about have all the stringers/ bulkheads capped. Using plastic to hold the CSM tight against the ends of the plywood works great. Got three coats of faring compound on the transom and cut and glued in the boarding ladder reinforcement in place. I'm whipped.

 

[ezmobee]

Yep sure do. I like to put in at the Weaver Falls ramp. That end of the lake is pretty tame. I haven't been on it with the Chap yet. We spend most of our time on the Potomac River.

We have a seasonal site at Heritage Cove! So maybe I'll see this beast on the water sometime soon!

 

[Baylinerchuck]

We have a seasonal site at Heritage Cove! So maybe I'll see this beast on the water sometime soon!

I've stayed in the cabins at Heritage Cove several times. Really nice place, we really enjoy it. Hopefully we'll see ya down there sometime.

 

[kcassells]

Nice work on the capping. I like the plastic idea. Do you know Nurseman? Are those his clamps?

 

[bajaunderground]

If you haven't named her yet, may I suggest "The Bradley"? She's built like a tank! Nice, detailed work!

 

[Baylinerchuck]

The clamps are from Harbor Freight, they are really cheap and work great for this. The idea came from tpenfield. Keeping CSM down on the top of these stringers would have been a PITA.....well more so.

We did name the boat, but not officially yet!!