View attachment 329292Hey thanks for the reply, Your talking about these circled pcs correct?
It’s cheaper, $13/tube (310ml)Interesting, do you have any data on how it compares to 3M 5200? I know that is the go to for most boaters.
SHSU
WEICON Flex 310 M Classic adhesive and sealant is strong, overpaintable (wet in wet), sandable, has outstanding aging stability and good resistance to UV rays. It is resistant to freshwater and salt water and is free of silicone, isocyanate, halogens or solvents.Interesting, do you have any data on how it compares to 3M 5200? I know that is the go to for most boaters.
SHSU
Yes I’ll run pvc to hold all my electrical, majority will be within the Center console, but yes running forward and rear will be conduit/pvc,That SubStructure is Lookin' good!
One thing that I see missing is a sub-deck track for running control cables, wiring and fuel lines. I did a CC conversion on my last boat and used several PVC runs; it was crucial. In your case since the lateral supports are already fastened, you can still feel long lengths of aluminum sheet metal and fabricate a trough by connecting to a longitudinal stringer.
I’ll be honest, I’m not going to tie upper part of the chine to the lower, this boat hammered Lake Erie for 40 years before it was in my possession, without issues or any signs of stress. I’d rather fix after vs put so many rivets thru close to the water line.. I’ve never seen a split hull, only people telling me it can happen.The rebuilding stage is the most fun part of the project and I really enjoyed working with the aluminum framing materials, even more so than wood but far less forgiving.
Looks great and adding the angle AL across the ribs should help stave off rib end cracking. Have you decided what to do for the braces to isolate the spray rail chine?
If I do anything towards that …I’ll weld in some plates in the area’s larger starcrafts have them riveted in , pains me to drill below the waterline…..I’ll be honest, I’m not going to tie upper part of the chine to the lower, this boat hammered Lake Erie for 40 years before it was in my possession, without issues or any signs of stress. I’d rather fix after vs put so many rivets thru close to the water line.. I’ve never seen a split hull, only people telling me it can happen.
Starcraft factory put the braces under the rib ends, welding near the seams will destroy the sealer and possibly cause issues with cracking later on. Yeah there are already 100's of holes filled with rivets below the waterline.If I do anything towards that …I’ll weld in some plates in the area’s larger starcrafts have them riveted in , pains me to drill below the waterline…..
Dang, well if that isn’t motivation I’m not sure what is…. Guess I’ll be drilling more holes. CheersStarcraft factory put the braces under the rib ends, welding near the seams will destroy the sealer and possibly cause issues with cracking later on. Yeah there are already 100's of holes filled with rivets below the waterline.
Not sure how many of these cracked out spray rails you want to see but I can assure you it's not a wives tale. Ask @Bondo to tell you his account of this issue.
wow ! I would hate to see that.Starcraft factory put the braces under the rib ends, welding near the seams will destroy the sealer and possibly cause issues with cracking later on. Yeah there are already 100's of holes filled with rivets below the waterline.
Not sure how many of these cracked out spray rails you want to see but I can assure you it's not a wives tale. Ask @Bondo to tell you his account of this issue.
Yes and especially with your precious cargo that could be aboard.Dang, well if that isn’t motivation I’m not sure what is…. Guess I’ll be drilling more holes. Cheers
Toilet bowl cleaner and a garden hose to rinse offwhat did you use to clean your hull with ? Im thinking I might use a brass wire cup on a drill or angle grinder