Can the base of engine work? Two to bolts under engine are rusted and can

tank1949

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Apr 4, 2013
Messages
1,893
How can I protect my outdrive? I found there are a lot of rust spot. I did a testing and the whole outdrive is connected the negative pole of 12V battery.,
you can never totally protect an outdrive if it stays in water, particularly salt water. All metal is (-) grounded by default. The big BLACK wire coming from battery should be attached to motor block.
 

liusigou

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
May 11, 2015
Messages
541
you can never totally protect an outdrive if it stays in water, particularly salt water. All metal is (-) grounded by default. The big BLACK wire coming from battery should be attached to motor block.
My boat runs only fresh water not in salt water. Currently all the parts are connected into black wire with negotive pole of battery
 

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 17, 2002
Messages
70,958
I found a lot of oil beside the oil filter.
Ayuh,.... So, is it from the side cover behind the distributor,..??
From the distributor,..??
From the fuel pump,..??
Or the oil filter,..??
 

liusigou

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
May 11, 2015
Messages
541
Ayuh,.... So, is it from the side cover behind the distributor,..??
From the distributor,..??
From the fuel pump,..??
Or the oil filter,..??
it seem that it is from under the distributor.
 

Grub54891

Admiral
Joined
Jun 17, 2012
Messages
6,077
Can it be fixed without pulling engine? I can add the engine oil before every single boating.
Yes you can fix it while in the boat. Pull the dizzy and replace the gasket. You should not have to add oil at every outing. Mines a 1985, 3.0. I go all summer without adding a drop. I'm not nice to it either, she's run hard and put away wet. It is maintained every fall and spring but still......
 

liusigou

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
May 11, 2015
Messages
541
Yes you can fix it while in the boat. Pull the dizzy and replace the gasket. You should not have to add oil at every outing. Mines a 1985, 3.0. I go all summer without adding a drop. I'm not nice to it either, she's run hard and put away wet. It is maintained every fall and spring but still......
What document should I follow to replace the gasket?
 

liusigou

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
May 11, 2015
Messages
541
I found leaking is located between engine and gas pump. I can touch the gasket. How can I know the part No. for the gasket?
 

Attachments

  • PXL_20220831_154601308 (1).jpg
    PXL_20220831_154601308 (1).jpg
    2.4 MB · Views: 7

sdowney717

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 16, 2011
Messages
225
I found leaking is located between engine and gas pump. I can touch the gasket. How can I know the part No. for the gasket?
You can buy gasket sheet material and cut out a new gasket to fit.
Maybe easy for you to cut.
I do recommend using gasket, but you could try silicone RTV gasket maker instead.
But that gasket is very common. Find a site that sells parts for that motor, should be shown on a diagram.

Many distributors use an Oring for sealing, not gasket.
 

sdowney717

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 16, 2011
Messages
225
What document should I follow to replace the gasket?
Simply
mark position of distributor in the block.
take off distributor cap
take off distributor clamp
Note position of rotor, will turn slightly as it is lifted out of engine due to angled gear drive on bottom.
Pull up entire distributor off the motor.
Replace gasket or Oring.
put distributor back in engine hole, align rotor back to where it was pointing at when it is removed, rotor will slightly turn. Gears are angled so rotor will turn as it goes in. Distributor bottom gear drives oil pump too. If engine is not spun, it will go right back in all the way down like it came out.
align distributor body to your earlier marking
put clamp on and cap on.
Worst thing is may have to use timing light to retime the ignition spark.
 

liusigou

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
May 11, 2015
Messages
541
Simply
mark position of distributor in the block.
take off distributor cap
take off distributor clamp
Note position of rotor, will turn slightly as it is lifted out of engine due to angled gear drive on bottom.
Pull up entire distributor off the motor.
Replace gasket or Oring.
put distributor back in engine hole, align rotor back to where it was pointing at when it is removed, rotor will slightly turn. Gears are angled so rotor will turn as it goes in. Distributor bottom gear drives oil pump too. If engine is not spun, it will go right back in all the way down like it came out.
align distributor body to your earlier marking
put clamp on and cap on.
Worst thing is may have to use timing light to retime the ignition spark.
Do you mean the timing order will be chaos? If so I prefer add the engine oil before outing.
 

sdowney717

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 16, 2011
Messages
225
Do you mean the timing order will be chaos? If so I prefer add the engine oil before outing.
Timing firing of the spark plugs could be a messed up chaos, if you dont put distributor back in the way it came out, into the same position.

Most mechanically minded people can fix that without much troubles.

Definitely add oil to engine before going out if needed.
 

liusigou

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
May 11, 2015
Messages
541
Timing firing of the spark plugs could be a messed up chaos, if you dont put distributor back in the way it came out, into the same position.

Most mechanically minded people can fix that without much troubles.

Definitely add oil to engine before going out if needed.
It seems that I need not touch the distributor because the leaking is from the fuel pump. So I just take the two screws off and then put the gasket back, Is that correct? Now I bought three items, which one is best?
 

Attachments

  • PXL_20220902_193246006.jpg
    PXL_20220902_193246006.jpg
    3.1 MB · Views: 3
  • PXL_20220902_193238112.jpg
    PXL_20220902_193238112.jpg
    1.8 MB · Views: 4
  • PXL_20220902_193234444.jpg
    PXL_20220902_193234444.jpg
    2.2 MB · Views: 3
  • PXL_20220831_154601308 (1).jpg
    PXL_20220831_154601308 (1).jpg
    2.4 MB · Views: 4

sdowney717

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 16, 2011
Messages
225
It seems that I need not touch the distributor because the leaking is from the fuel pump. So I just take the two screws off and then put the gasket back, Is that correct? Now I bought three items, which one is best?
You can just use the gasket.
But people also do put some sealer on a gasket, like RTV, or liquid to make sure gasket stays sealed. etc...

an advantage it keeps gasket from slipping when attaching back the pump.
  • Tacky paste for holding cut gaskets in place during assembly; helps seal cut gaskets
  • Resists gasoline, oil, antifreeze, axle lube, kerosene, propane and butane; sensor-safe
  • Temperature Range: -65°F to 500°F (-54°C to 260°C)
 

liusigou

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
May 11, 2015
Messages
541
Today I found the leaking is from the mounting of distributor. Is there a gasket for distributor connecting to engine?
 

Attachments

  • mmexport1662566530252.jpg
    mmexport1662566530252.jpg
    216.2 KB · Views: 4
  • mmexport1662566525229.jpg
    mmexport1662566525229.jpg
    258.4 KB · Views: 4

liusigou

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
May 11, 2015
Messages
541
you can search the part number and find a convenient place to purchase
Thank you Scott06 for your replying.

It seems that I can make the gasket by myself. it will affect the fire time of distributor if I only replace the gasket of distributor?
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Scott06

Admiral
Joined
Apr 20, 2014
Messages
6,440
Thank you Scott06 for your replying.

It seems that I can make the gasket by myself. it will affect the fire time of distributor if I only replace the gasket of distributor?
Just make sure it is the same thickness as original gasket material or close to it. you have to remove the distributor to install the gasket so you it will affect the timing. Plan on retiming it .
 
Top