Building a '93 Caravelle 1750 Classic Bowrider

[Reserector_]

Got a new aluminum anchor to try.

 

[tpenfield]

I'm impressed with your skills . . . taking apart an OMC seems like it would take nerves of steel. Good thing you had the cat there to guide you along. My Golden Retriever was not much help when I was doing outdrive maintenance.

Like you are doing, I usually try to buy the same bearings as original . . . Timken seems to be prevalent . . . shimming & preload efforts would still be required though.

 

[Reserector_]

Question that I cannot find an answer to: When mating the OMC Cobra upper to the lower, should I put anything on the o-rings and water passage seals?
Everything else calls for gasket sealant, but I was thinking grease on these?
It doesn't call for anything in the Seloc manual, and I can't find a reassembly video to save my life.
Please help.

 

[chevymaher]

I used grease to just hold them in place on mine.

 

[Reserector_]

I've finished up the outdrive. The manual says to use nothing on the water tube gaskets, and to use gasket sealant on the two o-rings and carrier that they are on to prevent oxidation, but since mine is freshwater only, I went with a light smear of grease on all. Went together great.

Pressure tested to 15 psi with no loss whatsoever. I do not have a vacuum tester yet, but I am proceeding in the meantime.
Upper and lower together:


Just the lower:


I painstakingly set the shift rod height. My cover is .256" so I subtracted that from the distance called out to the flange surface. I had to raise it one turn, for a total of 9 turns in. (reference)





Clean, sand and paint. It occurred to me that I am missing some skeg length to the tune of about 2". I now have a Skeggard on order to remedy that.


Restored the fins by cleaning, and then applying heat to remelt the oxidized surface. Night and day difference, with no chemicals to wash away.


CLICK HERE for the brief heat video.

 

[Reserector_]

I pulled the boat around to the garage and washed the pollen off. I made a brief walk around video while there was still daylight.

 

[Reserector_]

Last night I installed the outdrive. A little wiggling and shoving is all it took. I tossed a prop on it to complete the look and took some photos of this milestone moment. Or should I say channel marker moment?

My Skeggard arrived, so I checked it against the skeg and could see that mine is missing almost 2" of length. I was blown away by the quality and PERFECT fit of the Skeggard brand product. They are pricey, but worth it in my opinion.
I tapped in in place with a rubber mallet, but I will wait for daylight to drill the bolt holes.

 

[Reserector_]

I plan to clean up the prop, but should I leave it bare aluminum, or should I paint or coat it with something?

 

[chevymaher]

I love my skeg gaurd. It went on for the same reason. My skeg was to short when I got it. So are we looking at a splash video soon?????

 

[Reserector_]

Chipping away at my checklist.
Skeggard is installed.

Bimini top is installed.

My boat never had an overtemp or low oil pressure alarm, but it did have the circuit in the harness. I bought a kit that had the switches and buzzer. I just needed to do the plumbing. Temp switch and buzzer are installed and working.
I used a magnet, which caught and held every last chip.

 

[PC on the Bayou]

My boat never had an overtemp or low oil pressure alarm, but it did have the circuit in the harness. I bought a kit that had the switches and buzzer. I just needed to do the plumbing. Temp switch and buzzer are installed and working.

I am considering adding an overtemp alarm as well. Where did you get your kit?

 

[todhunter]

Hard drive magnet....I've got one of those as well for similar use.

 

[Reserector_]

iBOATS of course. It's a Sierra kit # MP41400
Comes with the 200° temp switch, a 6psi oil pressure switch, and the buzzer. You have to add a T fitting for the oil switch and whatever else. You may have the wires already. Mine were bullet connectors near the temp sender and oil pressure sender. A matching wire was hanging loose by the dash.
A word of caution, however. I brushed up against the bottom of my thermostat, so if you have to drill and tap, it is wise to remove the top piece and the stat. I got lucky.

​

 

[Reserector_]

I'm getting close to splash time. Trying not to forget anything. I still need to gas it up, add water, run it and make any final adjustments.
I also need to make sure I have all of the STUFF on board that I will need. I will probably set up my bow line and dock lines in the driveway. Figure out where to stow extra life jackets. So much to think about because I haven't ever launched a boat like this. I need to be prepared to do it alone, too.

But anyway, I got some stuff done this weekend. Working my way down the list.
I repacked the bearings and replaced the seals. I plan to add brakes very soon. A frind saw that on Facebook and told me he had a brake kit that he no longer needed. New in the box. Hydraulic disc with a surge coupler. Complete kit with every last nut bolt and screw. It was a 3 hour round trip to meet him, but I got it all for $300! The only other thing I needed was a pair of weld flanges to add to my axle.
In the meantime, I have repacked, resealed idler hubs.

Spare tire mounted.


Battery switch installed. I had originally ordered an "imported" switch, but after it laid in the boat in its package for several weeks, the nuts were already rusting. I threw it in the trash and ordered something much better. You get what you pay for.
This breaks the main ground connection. Good for emergencies and to keep the battery from running down when the boat is stored.



Engine enclosure insulated. (I ran out of foil tape. )
I still need to make a prop rod. I think I have it figured out, though.

 

[PC on the Bayou]

What kind of foam board is that you used for insulating your engine cover?

 

[todhunter]

What...no cat in the pictures this time?!

 

[chevymaher]

I put life jackets and anchor under the bow seats. Tow line and skii line under in the back in the side deals. I put the bumpers and dock lines and fishing gear in the skii locker. That is a handy place.

When you get to the landing unhook trailer lights. Put the plug in. Untie the rear. Get it put the bumpers and dock lines. Put the cooler in the boat. Get life jackets on everybody.

Now your ready to back er in.

You will get your own rythm but that is my system. This is alot of fun your gonna love it once you stop freaking and second guessing.

Oh and always remember to raise the outdrive before you pull out. And lower before you fire it up. That GRRRR sound what was that DOH.

 

[Reserector_]

What kind of foam board is that you used for insulating your engine cover?

It's a 1/2" foam with heavy foil on both sides. The other side had printing on it. Got it from Lowe's. I glued it in with Power Grab construction adhesive. We'll see how it does.

R-Matte Plus-3 Product Page — Rmax

www.rmax.com

 

[PC on the Bayou]

What kind of foam board is that you used for insulating your engine

It's a 1/2" foam with heavy foil on both sides. The other side had printing on it. Got it from Lowe's. I glued it in with Power Grab construction adhesive.

Thanks. I was wondering since I would like to do something similar in my bay and wanted to make sure that I put in something flame resistant, etc. that is suitable for marine & engine bay use.

 

[Reserector_]

Go to the link I posted and check their product line. They make a Fire Resistant version. The stuff I have is general purpose. The foil is a vapor barrier.
I think it will do fine. There is a similar product in the doghouse over my motorhome engine, and that 440 V8 gets HOT. The fiberglass housing stays cool.
Boat engines don't get very hot, and there is allot of air space between my engine and enclosure.