Bought my first boat to tinker on. Looking for advice

TripleJGraffis

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Jan 18, 2024
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Procrastinated today... but had good reason. My daughter had a band concert. I did manage to get the first transom layer cleaned up and placed into the boat.
 

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TripleJGraffis

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Jan 18, 2024
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301
Put on the 2nd transom layer today. Got my kids so could've be in the boat to much. I did work on the motor though. Got the new powerhead on and now I'm working on putting the wires all together. I did run into an issue I need help on.... the control box has a connector piece for the electrical components that plugged into a piece on the old motor. The new motor piece does not match. I am thinking on snipping the wires from the old piece and switching it to the new powerhead. How do i properly splice the wires together? I take it twisting the wires together and electrical tape will not be sufficient lol. Can I solder the wires together or is there a better method?
 

kcassells

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Any number of ways to do it properly. Solder, crimping {many types to use. Cover with shrink tube, done.
Marine grade wire is suggested and is copper strands coated or called "Tinned". Recommended.

 

TripleJGraffis

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Jan 18, 2024
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You know.....with the nice weather out, it is getting more nd more difficult to find the time to work on this boat. 😂 I want to make sure it's all done correctly, so it is going really really slow right now. I am hoping that I can find enough time to make some decent progress this Wednesday and Thursday in between dealing with kids and appointments. Gotta coat that last transom layer with resin, fill in the gaps and then I can reattach the outer skin....and maybe even add a few layers of glass in there since the transom wood itself is only an inch thick. The outer skin is about a half inch thick as well, so all should be good. After that, attach it all together with glass.... I have to clean up the inside where all the resin has oozed through the large remaining openings where I cut too far..... grind that all down (MORE GRINDING!😭) clean up, slap a few layers of glass back there as well, and then the transom should be completed aside from fairing compound and a new layer of gel coat.

After that......Stringers, bulkheads, install the gas tank and a new deck
 

TripleJGraffis

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Jan 18, 2024
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Since it's an outboard you will enjoy time out on the water when you get done this winter....
LOL. Depends on if we have another mild winter this year or not.

And what do you mean by "since it's an outboard"? Do outboard fare better in the cold than inboards?
 

havoc_squad

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Mar 5, 2011
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715
LOL. Depends on if we have another mild winter this year or not.

And what do you mean by "since it's an outboard"? Do outboard fare better in the cold than inboards?
Outboard motors are designed to drain the raw water when they shut off as long as the tilt is adjusted to have them completely vertical.

That's why you don't see an army of people rushing to get their outboards winterized before the first freeze happens unlike inboard equipped boats.

If you plan on taking a raw water only cooled inboard boat during wintertime where the temperature possibly will get below 32 degrees F, you have to drain the cooling system completely when it is not being used before the cooling water freezes.

Heat exchanger equipped inboard engines only need to drain the raw water portion of the boat but the closed cooling portion that has the toxic antifreeze water mix like in automobiles can stay remaining if the mixture is done properly to work at the lowest freeze point needed for the location.
 

TripleJGraffis

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Jan 18, 2024
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Nah..... Ole Coots just saying you won't geterin da wadder this season.
Peeps dues dat herea.
Yeah, I am slowly accepting this fact. It's kind of a downer that I most likely won't get it out this season.....But definitely in winter if the temps are as phenomenal as it was back in February here in Wisconsin!
 

TripleJGraffis

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Jan 18, 2024
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Outboard motors are designed to drain the raw water when they shut off as long as the tilt is adjusted to have them completely vertical.

That's why you don't see an army of people rushing to get their outboards winterized before the first freeze happens unlike inboard equipped boats.

If you plan on taking a raw water only cooled inboard boat during wintertime where the temperature possibly will get below 32 degrees F, you have to drain the cooling system completely when it is not being used before the cooling water freezes.

Heat exchanger equipped inboard engines only need to drain the raw water portion of the boat but the closed cooling portion that has the toxic antifreeze water mix like in automobiles can stay remaining if the mixture is done properly to work at the lowest freeze point needed for the location.
You know... The more I hear about them....the more I feel like inboards are more of a pain in the ass that outboards! LOL
 

TripleJGraffis

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Jan 18, 2024
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Yup!! I will only have an outboard, so I can pull it off & bring inside my heated garage during the our Canadian winters
So I don't have a heated garage. How do I handle my outboard? Souds like I can tilt it into a fully vertical position and all the water will drain out and not freeze....Therefore, leaving nothing else to do with it....but others recommend to winterize by draining the lower unit lube and adding antifreeze.....What's the best method to keep it in the best possible shape in my situation?
 

aspeck

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So I don't have a heated garage. How do I handle my outboard? Souds like I can tilt it into a fully vertical position and all the water will drain out and not freeze....Therefore, leaving nothing else to do with it....but others recommend to winterize by draining the lower unit lube and adding antifreeze.....What's the best method to keep it in the best possible shape in my situation?
Since you are in Wisconsin you don't have to worry about a "fresh water flush." If you are using the boat over the winter, when you come off the water make sure the outboard is vertical to let it drain. Before it gets cold, unscrew the bottom gear case screw and insert the gear case lube nipple of your gear case tube. Remove the top screw and squeeze in lube until lube comes out the top. If it is nicely colored lube, replace screws. If it is milky/watery, drain and replace lube.

When you are done using the boat for the season, use Seafoam or fogging oil to lube and clean the cylinders (how people do this varies with personalities) and you are done winterizing.
 

The Force power

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So I don't have a heated garage. How do I handle my outboard? Souds like I can tilt it into a fully vertical position and all the water will drain out and not freeze....Therefore, leaving nothing else to do with it....but others recommend to winterize by draining the lower unit lube and adding antifreeze.....What's the best method to keep it in the best possible shape in my situation?
Sorry, I meant to bring inside to work on; not for winter storage
 
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