Big wooden boat project [Splashed Sept 2017]

Ned L

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Sep 17, 2008
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That piece of oak really won't need anything in the way of "treatment". It will get a coat of paint, but that is it.
Kiln dying of wood isn't really done to kill any critters or for reasons of "treatment". The purpose of kiln drying is really just to drop the moisture content of the wood quickly, to bring it to a point where it will be more dimensionally stable and won't cup and warp over time.
Kiln drying accomplishes about the same thing as "Air drying" ( stckering it and leaving it covered out of the weather), except air drying takes about a year for every inch of thickness and kiln drying takes only a couple of days.
Also, salt water actually acts as a form of preservative. Wooden boats in salt water typically rot from the top down, rarely from the bottom up. That can be seen on this boat. There really is about nothing rotted in the hull, almost all of my work has been on the superstructure and decks. Fresh rainwater coming down from above causing the problems.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 29, 2009
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Very nice explanation of Wood and Saltwater Boats. Also the White Oak is RICH with the water repelling "Tanins" so the danger of it rotting are Minimal. I sure wish I lived closer. Helping you with all this Woodworking sure would be fun!!!!
 

Ned L

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Sep 17, 2008
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Thanks WOG! I would probably take you up on the offer. Riveting all those rib sections in alone is going to be a little time consuming. I have worked out a way to rivet single handedly, but it is a bit tedious.
 

sphelps

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Nov 16, 2011
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Rivets ??? I thought this was a wood boat ?? :D
Good to hear about the salt water ... I won't think twice about launching mine at the creek now ..
 

Ned L

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Sep 17, 2008
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Ahhh, so WOG, you should right at home with some of my other tools. Bandsaw 1905. slicks 1837, most of my chisels 1800's. :D



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Ned L

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Sep 17, 2008
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Here is that rudder stuffing box block installed.

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I just about have all the replacement rib sections done. I had to cut into my last plank of 1 1/4" white oak.

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Here are the rib sections ready for some steam

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and here we go...
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And in place...

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Here I have removed the new rib sections and have cut out the areas that will be replaced.

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I'm taking a couple of days of vacation to move forward on putting the new sections in. We'll see where I get to next week.
 
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proshadetree

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Jul 19, 2008
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Can't believe the skill and dedication involved in repairing one of these jewels. Two cans of bondo and some plywood and my boats are done. Awesome work man cant wait to see some more updates.
 

Ned L

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"Two cans of Bondo", ....... lol. yep, but Atlantic white cedar and white oak are Soooooooo much nicer to work with. :D

I will admit (like pretty much all of us here) that I am putting a lot more work than expected into her. However, even if she were a 'glass boat,... how many 60 year old glass boats can live a well used life, be 'abandon' and untouched for 15 years, and come out without needing major work. Besides, she is definitely something 'different'. when I walk down the pier I won't need to read the name on the transom to figure out which boat is ours. :D ................ And I just don't think I could bring myself to owning a glass boat (other than the 16ft Jersey speed skiff that I had for a while). I grew up in a wood boat family and there is just something so comfortable about the ride, motion and smell of a wooden boat that you don't have with a glass boat.

Anyway, ............

I made some good headway last weekend on putting in the port side rib sections.

I started out by setting up a couple of 2x4's spread across her coaming so that I would have something to brace against and push the rib sections in place with.

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Resocinol glue and bronze screw were used for gluing and fastening the lap joints.
The rib was put in location and held in place.

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Then climb outside the boat and drill through the rib (through the original rivet hole in the planking).

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Copper nails are used for the rivets

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Then I have a 'custom' bucking dolly that I made up years ago that has an adjustable spring loaded leg on it. This is used to 'buck' the outside of the nail to keep it from backing out while finishing off the inside of the rivet.

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A variety of bracings and props are used depending on where the rivet is in the boat.

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When you climb back in the boat this is what you see.

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Next a copper burr is driven down over the tip of the nail (an interference fit, so it needs to be driven on).

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The end of the nail is then cut off almost flush.
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and peened over with a smaller size ball peen hammer.

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I only have to do this a hundred or so times. To build a boat of this size new requires about 6500 rivets

Here are the port side ribs repaired.

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I am adding some inbetween rib sections in the area that I expect the travel lift straps to be positioned for picking her up.

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With a bit of paint and things are looking respectable again.

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This is one of the typical scarfs from old rib to new rib. The taper on the old rib cut with a shipwrights adze and the mating scarf on the new rib marked and cut on the bandsaw.

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now I just need some warm weather again (> 70? F for the glue) so I can continue on the starboard side.
 

Pusher

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Sep 2, 2014
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That's a really cool process for the riveting!

Very nice work Ned
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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Ned, you make the rest of us appear like mere mortals. Wooden boat building is a lost art that you have seemingly mastered.
 

sphelps

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Ned, you make the rest of us appear like mere mortals. Wooden boat building is a lost art that you have seemingly mastered.

I agree ! Not sure if you have any kids or not but if you do you must pass this knowledge on to future generations !
The rib repairs are outstanding !
 

Ned L

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Sep 17, 2008
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Thanks for the complements. I do have one daughter, unfortunately she (nor anyone else I know) have any interest in this stuff. ... unfortunate. Maybe some day I'll find someone to pass a bit on to.
 
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