Bayliner Capri 2150 resurrection.

huggyb1972

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Apr 1, 2013
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237
Not really got anywhere in the last couple days. The 5 gallons of resin I was waiting on got shipped way across town to a different address and fouled up part of my plans to have the deck done. Maybe it will show up and I'll get it set up next week who knows at this point. Dad in the boat working on the trim motor wiring and checking the shifter out.
 

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Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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No not the motor. The outdrive what Oil does it use and how much? Is there a certain way of doing it?
SP 280 is SAE 30 or GL5. (all fluids are SAE 30 - engine oil, PS fluid, Trim Fluid, drive fluid) the DP requires GL5. uses nearly 3 quarts. you fill by the plug on the back of the transmission near the shift linkages (just up and to the right of the shift shaft)

Seloc manuals make good couch shims or knee pads, however as a manual, not worth the paper they are printed on.
 

huggyb1972

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Apr 1, 2013
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SP 280 is SAE 30 or GL5. (all fluids are SAE 30 - engine oil, PS fluid, Trim Fluid, drive fluid) the DP requires GL5. uses nearly 3 quarts. you fill by the plug on the back of the transmission near the shift linkages (just up and to the right of the shift shaft)

Seloc manuals make good couch shims or knee pads, however as a manual, not worth the paper they are printed on.
X2 on seloc manual uselessness.

Whoever had it before me must have used gear oil. It had that distinct aroma, the fins down on the propshaft all looked good. Bearings and gears all looked pretty good I put new seals in the drive bottom to top. Everything looked pretty good the seals were still pliable but better safe than sorry. It was in Indiana lakes to it probably didn't have much run time over all.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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I used 10w40 Castrol GTX hopefully that will be fine. This unit probably won't see many hours this year with the way it's going now.
I wouldnt use a multi-vis oil in the drive unless it was a GL5 gear lube. Straight SAE 30 has much higher shear than 10W40
 

huggyb1972

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Apr 1, 2013
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237
New starter is in. Quite a difference in size these new starters are. I've switched all my life ford's over to them and wow what a difference in starting cold.

I'll see about sae 30 is only a few quarts. No huge deal
 

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huggyb1972

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Still waiting on resin UPS lost the shipment and hasn't produced any account for it yet so we just ordered another and hope for the best.

Dad got busy today installing the new switch center up on the console all the switches are carling that are lit when energized and accompanied by a appropriate circuit breaker.

I got the alternator installed and the stern tow eyes.

Now I'm going to work on the trailer and try to get it sorted out. I still can't believe how the axles are placed in this trailer. If the trailer has the weight of the boat in it the axle tubes are about 1/2" from the hull. The picture is with all the weight on jack stands and is still a bit too close for comfort.

I opted for a exhaust y pipe instead of thru hull exhaust hopefully it comes in later this week. I had to order it from Florida.
 

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huggyb1972

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Apr 1, 2013
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237
Bout 4" higher may go to 14 tires. It has 13's what a joke.
 

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alldodge

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No issue with axle being close to hull so long as the bunks are not soft.
 

alldodge

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Understand your concern but my point is it "appears" the bunk supports are welded to the axle. Only way the hull would contact is if the bunks were soft and compressed more.
 

Wildey

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Nov 24, 2021
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it "appears" the bunk supports are welded to the axle.
No, my goodness NO. NEVER anything on the axle.
You can see the crossmember behind the axle with the bunks and roller mounted.
Too close for me too !
 

huggyb1972

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The bunk supports are in no way connected to the axle. Somehow this boat and trailer survived together for how many ever years. The problem I'm still struggling with is how you put a axle in a trailer with v supports and then put the axle in where they are higher than the V's. Nearest I can figure is this is the original trailer in its original configuration. The bunk stands are welded in place and the bunk attaches with a small angle bracket as far as I can see the bunks are not compressed.
 

briangcc

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Jul 10, 2012
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I'm wondering if the bunks weren't originally 4x4 posts that someone replaced with standard 2x4 because it was cheaper?? That'd be a really easy way to gain some clearance between the keel and the axles by going back to 4x4 posts for bunks.

Then again...the springs could just need replacement...
 

huggyb1972

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I'm wondering if the bunks weren't originally 4x4 posts that someone replaced with standard 2x4 because it was cheaper?? That'd be a really easy way to gain some clearance between the keel and the axles by going back to 4x4 posts for bunks.

Then again...the springs could just need replacement...
The springs are almost 40 years old so that's a possibility. From where the fenders are placed though I'd say it was about where it should be within a inch at most. 4x4's for bunks I don't think I've ever seen them used from a factory built setup.

The trailer lights are done with exception of one amber that has disappeared. The lights have been sitting in the garage for about 2 years waiting on the installation so only having one missing is still pretty good.

The new cockpit wiring is about done also.
 

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huggyb1972

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AhHa something that actually looks like I'm making progress. Still no resin, maybe tomorrow.
 

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huggyb1972

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Hey what do you know all the parts I was waiting on showed up today. The Y-pipe got here right after calling the place and leaving a voice-mail to get a tracking number. Then the resin showed up. The cabinetry work for the motor cover/bar/bench seat/bait station is laid out niw. I got busy fitting the support for the final section of floor. Heck my youngest daughter even came home for a bit and helped with tabbing in the stringers on the inside. I worked on the thing until 3:30am then took a nap in the boat. Time for bed I may call in tonight and work on the boat more today.
 

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huggyb1972

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Apr 1, 2013
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So if you're playing with floatation foam and don't want it all over. I tried this trick tonight. A gallon ziplock fits inside a 2 ¹/2 quarts paint mixing cup and a quart bag fits inside a quart mixing cup. Do your bag with equal parts close the ziplock knead the bag like your girlfriend bewbs at a drive-in then ship the corner of the baggie over the hole and wait for the show. 1 quart of 2lb at 78deg f seams to go about 10"x10"x 40"
 

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