'97 Tracker Pro Deep V Facelift

[Handyman663]

Re: '97 Tracker Pro Deep V Facelift

Thanks for bumping it. I was busy with a kitchen remodel so my boat was waiting in the garage for the deck job, then I had heart surgery. So now, it's still waiting and for certain I had forgotten about this thread.

Also my thanks for the bump. This is the alltime best thread on DIY forums. I have had heart surgery also, but 4 yrs later I'm better than new. I started disassembling my Tracker from the stern and have completed new carpet forward thru the main deck floor. I have not started taking the bow section apart, but it is bass season, so I am tacking the main floor back in and will pick the project up later in the summer. I bought 23 feet of the 8-1/2' wide marine carpet because I really had no idea how much it would take. I wanted to have plenty and will report how much was really required when I am done.

 

[Dave88LX]

Re: '97 Tracker Pro Deep V Facelift

Looks fantastic. I was looking at alternatives to carpet. I'll have to take a look at some of this in person or a close-up pic to see what exactly it looks like.

 

[Vintin]

Re: '97 Tracker Pro Deep V Facelift

You do fantastic work Jigngrub. Thanks so much for your input in my deck treatment thread.

 

[nmscuba]

Re: '97 Tracker Pro Deep V Facelift

Nice job and nice thread. Im going to have to redo my 1986 Lund Tyee 16ft this winter. What I was thinking or wondering about is instead of using wood for the floor what about using aluminum plate? Also instead of vinyl covering I was wondering about having it sprayed with the material auto body shops use on the lower rocker panels which is like a bed liner but not as heavy?

Any thoughts?

 

[jigngrub]

Re: '97 Tracker Pro Deep V Facelift

Also my thanks for the bump. This is the alltime best thread on DIY forums. I have had heart surgery also, but 4 yrs later I'm better than new. I started disassembling my Tracker from the stern and have completed new carpet forward thru the main deck floor. I have not started taking the bow section apart, but it is bass season, so I am tacking the main floor back in and will pick the project up later in the summer. I bought 23 feet of the 8-1/2' wide marine carpet because I really had no idea how much it would take. I wanted to have plenty and will report how much was really required when I am done.

Looks fantastic. I was looking at alternatives to carpet. I'll have to take a look at some of this in person or a close-up pic to see what exactly it looks like.

You do fantastic work Jigngrub. Thanks so much for your input in my deck treatment thread.

Thanks for the kind words folks!

Nice job and nice thread. Im going to have to redo my 1986 Lund Tyee 16ft this winter. What I was thinking or wondering about is instead of using wood for the floor what about using aluminum plate? Also instead of vinyl covering I was wondering about having it sprayed with the material auto body shops use on the lower rocker panels which is like a bed liner but not as heavy?

Any thoughts?

Although aluminum is durable and long lasting (forever), it does have it's drawbacks.

It's very expensive, noisy, hot/cold, and dents.

For about half the price of an aluminum deck you can install a kiln dried CCA pressure treated plywood deck with a lifetime warranty and smother it in epoxy resin, this deck will be cheaper, quieter, cooler/warmer, stronger, and you won't have to worry about dents.

I do like the idea of the spray/paintable deck finish that sheds water, but I'm not sure of the color choices. Black is very hot in the summer if that's the only color it comes in. Another option you may want to consider is Durabak, it comes in a wide variety of colors and you can apply it yourself, it's also rated for marine applications.
Non-slip Safety Coating for Your Boat or Ship

 

[nmscuba]

Re: '97 Tracker Pro Deep V Facelift

Thanks for the kind words folks!



Although aluminum is durable and long lasting (forever), it does have it's drawbacks.

It's very expensive, noisy, hot/cold, and dents.

For about half the price of an aluminum deck you can install a kiln dried CCA pressure treated plywood deck with a lifetime warranty and smother it in epoxy resin, this deck will be cheaper, quieter, cooler/warmer, stronger, and you won't have to worry about dents.

I do like the idea of the spray/paintable deck finish that sheds water, but I'm not sure of the color choices. Black is very hot in the summer if that's the only color it comes in. Another option you may want to consider is Durabak, it comes in a wide variety of colors and you can apply it yourself, it's also rated for marine applications.
Non-slip Safety Coating for Your Boat or Ship

Ahhh all good things I didn't think about. I guess the CCA is a no brainer. Question though. If its lifetime for rotting why go though all the trouble of sealing it all with epoxy?

I have the coating link saved in my project folder. Im thinking of using that on the inside of the hull instead of carpet too. Might even use it on the top of the boat sides and bow on the Lund Tyee

Thank you for the info and this board is priceless

 

[northman]

Re: '97 Tracker Pro Deep V Facelift

Your boat looks great. That's some nice work, you should be proud. I was also impressed with the foam job and to be honest with you, wasn't expecting that! I just dragged home a relic Crestliner Fishhawk to fix up, but I certainly wont be aiming as high as you. Cheers.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: '97 Tracker Pro Deep V Facelift

Question though. If its lifetime for rotting why go though all the trouble of sealing it all with epoxy?

Even though the CCA won't rot if it gets wet, it'll still get wet if exposed to water. This will increase the weight of the plywood by nearly double the dry weight. A dry sheet of 4x8x3/4" is about 75 lbs, wet is nearly 150 lbs.

Water exposure will also cause the top ply to crack and split (check) this will hasten the absorbtion of water should the plywood get wet again after drying out. Sealing with epoxy will stop all of this happy horse crap from happening.

Sealing with 4 coats of epoxy will give you a very nice smooth finish hiding any imperfections and the grain of the plywood, this is important for thin top coatings like paint on products and vinyl.

Your final finish is only going to look as good as what's beneath it when using thin coatings.

 

[nmscuba]

Re: '97 Tracker Pro Deep V Facelift

Even though the CCA won't rot if it gets wet, it'll still get wet if exposed to water. This will increase the weight of the plywood by nearly double the dry weight. A dry sheet of 4x8x3/4" is about 75 lbs, wet is nearly 150 lbs.

Water exposure will also cause the top ply to crack and split (check) this will hasten the absorbtion of water should the plywood get wet again after drying out. Sealing with epoxy will stop all of this happy horse crap from happening.

Sealing with 4 coats of epoxy will give you a very nice smooth finish hiding any imperfections and the grain of the plywood, this is important for thin top coatings like paint on products and vinyl.

Your final finish is only going to look as good as what's beneath it when using thin coatings.

So do you have to rough sand the epoxy so that the adhesives or roll on vinyl will stick to it? Thank you for all the great advice and this thread. Its going to make my job so much easier.

From looking at your pictures you did a great job! Want to come do mine LOL

 

[jigngrub]

Re: '97 Tracker Pro Deep V Facelift

I sand the epoxy with 120 grit between coats and prior to laying the adhesive for the vinyl. I don't sand it a lot, just enough to dull the finish and give the next coat something to grip.

I wipe the sanded surface down with a damp rag until clean, no solvents or detergents... just frsh water.

 

[lokonn]

Re: '97 Tracker Pro Deep V Facelift

Jig, on the vinyl adhesive...why did you use two types. Is there a big difference between 88 and the red/white adhesive? Would you do the 88 again. Pricey stuff, trying to figure out if worth it or not. Thanks

 

[jigngrub]

Re: '97 Tracker Pro Deep V Facelift

Jig, on the vinyl adhesive...why did you use two types. Is there a big difference between 88 and the red/white adhesive? Would you do the 88 again. Pricey stuff, trying to figure out if worth it or not. Thanks

Sorry I missed this question lokonn.

On my next vinyl job I'll skip the 88 and go all contact cement. The contact cement is an immediate bond and doesn't require the additional fasteners to hold it until cured. It's also more waterproof than the latex based 88.

 

[lokonn]

Re: '97 Tracker Pro Deep V Facelift

Thanks.

 

[wheat72]

Re: '97 Tracker Pro Deep V Facelift

I really like what you did to your Tracker. I was wondering how you attached the aluminum to your lids. It sure looks good!

 

[jigngrub]

Re: '97 Tracker Pro Deep V Facelift

I really like what you did to your Tracker. I was wondering how you attached the aluminum to your lids. It sure looks good!

Thanks for the compliments W72!

The lids are aluminum and I used counter sunk head closed end blind rivets, I used the closed end because they're about 10x stronger than the regular open end (pop) blind rivets. I spaced the rivets about 3 1/2"-4" apart. It's a very secure installation and none of them have come loose yet.

You can find those rivets here:
closed end blind rivets

 

[wheat72]

Re: '97 Tracker Pro Deep V Facelift

Thanks for the compliments W72!

The lids are aluminum and I used counter sunk head closed end blind rivets, I used the closed end because they're about 10x stronger than the regular open end (pop) blind rivets. I spaced the rivets about 3 1/2"-4" apart. It's a very secure installation and none of them have come loose yet.

You can find those rivets here:
closed end blind rivets

Thanks for the information!

 

[dcondron]

Re: '97 Tracker Pro Deep V Facelift

Need some help from you guys that have worked on the older tracker tournament v17's. My bro in law and myself are restoring his grandpas boat. We would like to make it an open hull design by removing the front and rear decks.

We do have concern as to how much support the front and rear decks give the hull. Anyone have experience or know if we would be hurting the stability or strength of the hull by removing these decks.

Thanks- Dave

 

[jigngrub]

Re: '97 Tracker Pro Deep V Facelift

Need some help from you guys that have worked on the older tracker tournament v17's. My bro in law and myself are restoring his grandpas boat. We would like to make it an open hull design by removing the front and rear decks.

We do have concern as to how much support the front and rear decks give the hull. Anyone have experience or know if we would be hurting the stability or strength of the hull by removing these decks.

Thanks- Dave

Start your own thread and I'll be glad to talk about it.

Taking out the decks and bulkheads without putting in additional structural support would be a bad idea.

 

[Striper Holic]

Re: '97 Tracker Pro Deep V Facelift

JNG what a great vinyl job, and thanks for the PM's. Are you familiar with the HH-66 Vinyl Cement?

HH-66 Vinyl Cement, Aerosol, Adhesives & Sprays, HH-66 Vinyl Cement, K-Grip Adhesive Spray from Rochford Supply - Your Online Textile and Upholstery Superstore!

I was wondering if this would be a good contact cement to use for vinyl flooring, and/or where did you get yours?
They indicate to use for Nautolex vinyl flooring.

Also was wondering if you wrapped your vinyl over the bottom edge on your decking? Looks like you did on the hatch covers! If doing that could I drill back up through the existing screw holes on the original flooring, before wrapping, so that I can use the existing holes in the stringers! TIA

My head is reeling! :facepalm:

 

[jigngrub]

Re: '97 Tracker Pro Deep V Facelift

All deck pieces, hatch covers, and side panel pieces are wrapped individually with the vinyl wrapped around the back like this:

Wrapping around to the back is pretty much a must with this vinyl, if you don't wrap you have to fasten the edges mechanically with a batten strip of wood or metal to keep the edges from curling up.

I used the Nautolex 88 adhesive on some of my pieces to begin with, but wasn't happy with it. It takes days for it to cure and reach full bonding strength and creates gasses during the curing time that makes the vinyl bubble underneath and you have to keep rolling it every day to get the bubbles out.

I switched over to Weldwood contact cement instead and was very satisfied with the results:
DAP 1-gal. Weldwood Original Contact Cement-207534 at The Home Depot
Less than half the price of the 88 adhesive and much better bonding with no bubbles.

I don't know what all you plan to vinyl on your boat, but I would guess it'll take over a gallon of contact cement just for the decking.

The adhesive you posted looks like it might be ok, but it's more expensive than the weldwood and you'll have to pay shipping too. You can pick gallons of the weldwood up at HD and quarts up at Wal-mart.

Are you going to be replacing your decking or reusing your old decking?