96 Bayliner 2050 - The Dirty Rotten Baystard

[Mad Props]

Thanks! Yea, its probably overkill, but all the thru transom stuff I coated the holes with resin and gelcoat and will fill with 3M 4000 so they will pretty much be bombproof... I just don't really have a good way to fill non-thru/small screw holes that penetrate the fiberglass... They probably are also of basically no concern as long as they get filled with sealant, but nows the time to deal with it, so I'm just gonna do it now.

 

[Grub54891]

If your screws go through the glass and into a wood core, you would drill the hole oversized, fill with epoxy and then drill to the correct size for the screw. Keeps the wood dry....

 

[Mad Props]

If your screws go through the glass and into a wood core, you would drill the hole oversized, fill with epoxy and then drill to the correct size for the screw. Keeps the wood dry....

I agree that is a good method, but I want to have somewhere that I can screw into anytime down the road without a big hassle if I want to add a P clamp or cable tie mount or something... And even if I did drill the hole, fill it, and redrill smaller, theres still a chance that the epoxy could crack and be an entrance point for water... Theres really no reason to not put the sacrificial piece on. Just my thoughts anyway.

 

[Grub54891]

I still use a sealant when doing my method. Of course there are places where you can't screw in to. Then I'll epoxy a wood block to that area and screw into that. Buy the way, your build is looking great!

 

[Mad Props]

Thanks Grub54891 ... It definitely feels good to have the paint finally done. Now that the temperate dependent stuff is done I can take my time rebuilding over the winter.

 

[Chris51280]

looks great. How much paint did you end up using?

 

[oldrem]

Looking good

 

[Mad Props]

looks great. How much paint did you end up using?

I ended up ordering a 3rd quart but only used about 1/3 of it... I guess the lid wasn't on my 2nd quart very tight because I opened it up one day and the last 1/3 of the can was starting to harden on top... I was afraid to use the paint underneath the top layer after seeing that, so I decided to play it safe and order another....
Now I have some extra in case I ever have any spots that need touched up... I'm not sure what the shelf life is, but I'll at least keep the can so I remember the color lol.

Also,

I uploaded a new video on rebuilding the trim cylinders in case anyone cares lol. Enjoy!

 

[oldrem]

As long as it's closed tightly and isn't exposed to extreme temps, paint can last for years. One trick is after making sure it's sealed tightly, store it upside down - no air can penetrate that way.

 

[Chris51280]

the pre-kote i assume were 2 cans then?

 

[Mad Props]

the pre-kote i assume were 2 cans then?

Nope, only 1 can of pre-kote actually... It didn't use much paint at all until the nonskid was down... The first seal coat of non skid probably used 3/4 of a can alone and less with each following coat. It really sucks up the paint. I think I figured 16oz of pre-kote did an entire coat of the whole thing.

 

[Chris51280]

wow. good to know. I may have to go back and redo mine. yours looks fantastic. I was not able to get this result with gelcoat. Are you doing some sanding after?

 

[Mad Props]

wow. good to know. I may have to go back and redo mine. yours looks fantastic. I was not able to get this result with gelcoat. Are you doing some sanding after?

Interlux brightside requires sanding between coats, that's my only dislike... if I were to do it all over again, I might consider spending the money on a 2 part paint, cuz if you recoat within a certain timeframe you dont need to sand.... plus it's even more durable.

I had two spots of the nonskid peel on me and I essentially glued them back down with the next coat... I'm just hoping that after a good cure time it will be durable... I guess time will tell.

 

[Chris51280]

yup. let us know.

 

[Mad Props]

Sorry, no updates this weekend... all I can report is the floor seems to have cured up nice and hard and I got the thixoflex in the mail... thinking Wednesday night will be my first chance to get back out and work on my sacrificial wood strips.

 

[MPrimeaux]

Just wanted to stop and tell you how much I appreciate you taking the time to document your project on here and YouTube. I’ve been through most everything at least once and you’ve really helped me out with some of the details. Still in the beginning stages of my project, but I’m really close to getting to it. Thanks again and your boat’s looking great!

 

[Mad Props]

Just wanted to stop and tell you how much I appreciate you taking the time to document your project on here and YouTube. I’ve been through most everything at least once and you’ve really helped me out with some of the details. Still in the beginning stages of my project, but I’m really close to getting to it. Thanks again and your boat’s looking great!

Thanks for following along... I don't have much of a following on youtube (yet), but I'm glad I can help anyone by learning from my experiences.

 

[MPrimeaux]

Thanks for following along... I don't have much of a following on youtube (yet), but I'm glad I can help anyone by learning from my experiences.

The videos have really helped me personally man. If a picture is worth a thousand words, a relevant, well done video has to be at least 10,000.

Side note.... I don't know if i missed it or haven't gotten to it yet, but can you clarify what you decided was easier to sand after gel coating - PVA or surface wax? Or if you had it to do over again would you just paint with the interlux and skip gel all together?

 

[Mad Props]

To be honest, they both kinda suck lol... the gelcoat itself wasnt bad cuz I just used unwaxed until the final layer in which I used wax and duratec... the pain was the home made fairing compound... if I knew I was painting those areas I would have just bought epoxy fairing compound like petit or total fair...

If you're skipping non skid and putting down carpet or eva foam, then I wouldn't even bother fairing.. just gelcoat righton the deck.

 

[MPrimeaux]

I THINK I’m gonna just gel over 1708. My boat didn’t come with a “deck”. It had some fiberglass inserts that screwed down to the stringers to have a flat surface to walk on. I only have the one for the front. I’m toying around with the idea of building something clever out of teak that will bolt to the stringers, so you won’t even REALLY see the bottom of the hull. I was thinking rolling on gel would be cheaper and maybe a little more durable in what would basically be a bilge. Whatcha think? Can’t seem to post a picture from my phone, but I have a thread on here, 1957 Fleetform if you care to see what I’m working with. If I did just roll on gel and leave the texture.... if I understand correctly....I would just use surface wax on the last coat and leave it like that right?