93 Wellcraft 196 SC - Bare hull rebuild

[gsxrdan]

In case this helps anyone doing a future build, heres my method for marking a curved profile, used for the transom and stringers and bulkheads etc

 

[kcassells]

[FONT=Lato, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]Very cool and simple! [/FONT]

 

[Carpenter2486]

Looking great! Tons of progress.

 

[gsxrdan]

Cheers, workin as fast as i can cause the warm weather is on its way and i want to get ma ski on !!

We test fit the deck pieces and the seats and engine doghouse tonight - all seems copacetic... i even sat inside the doghouse and made broom broom noises - so i think the engine will run fine... :joyous:

 

[gsxrdan]

Just had to post up a sneaky midday pic, cause progress got real exciting:



and then - ta da! thems all the deck pieces right there, all trimmed and snug, and not too much of a gap to fill with pb (im getting a bit tight arsed with my resin, and pb uses a lot)

 

[gsxrdan]

Since there was nothing to give support over the rear of the fuel tank i pb'd in a frame and added a base plate - there will be an access hatch over the hose connections.

 

[gsxrdan]

Is this the solution for foam filled cavities with operational limber holes? Ive spent hours toying with plugs and strings and crap trying to make sense of the drainage

Will be easy to feed then bag in thru the foam pour hole and use a pvc pive the right size as the funnel - what do you think guys? Woodonglass

 

[gsxrdan]

Here is skeleton for the last time, have attached blocks to the stringers to screw the deck to - glued with pb and screwed into place (with sealant in the screw holes). These are the only screws so far in the build. Hope the supports over the fuel tank are enough, thats a big space for the deck sheets to span in the middle.

Jody and i csm'd the underside of the deck and cabin seats tonight, (cause thats what happening couples do at 10pm on a sat night)... tomoz we mite flowcoat the bilge and seat insides, as im out of chopped strand to make pb to lay the deck down, and will have to wait to mon to get more.

 

[Woodonglass]

You don't HAVE to use chopped stand in the PB mix you use for filleting. The fillets are NOT structural and only there to help the glass conform to the joint.

As for keeping the limber holes open we had a guy a LONG time ago, that taped the plastic bag to the bottom and the sides of each compartment and put wood plugs covered with packing tape in the holes. He also use plywood covered with plastic as a top cap with a 3" relief hole and then carefully calculated the amount of foam needed to just fill each compartment. he pored the foam and then stood on the cap while it expanded. the foam will not stick to the plastic and he was able to remove it from the cavity, remove the plastic and then put the foam back in...Custom Fit. Tedious and Time consuming but it worked nicely. You lose the somewhat structural enhancement when the foam is poured directly into the cavity and GLUES itself to all sides and bottom but you can keep the limber holes open using this method.

 

[mickyryan]

great work man , you making progress for sure , btw I would just pour it in then drill limber holes and water proof them but I liked the additional structural integrity of the foam .

 

[gsxrdan]

er now im not sure which way to go... again! Im after the increased rigidity for sure - problem with tryin to drill the holes after the foam is poured is there is no access to most of them once the deck is down... might just have to run a hose for the front deck drainage, and hope for the best with the other 14 compartments!! Will have to plug the existing holes tho so the foam doesnt just pour straight thru

 

[gsxrdan]

In the meantime, got some show n tell, heres some pieces of bulkheads removed to make way for a deck support, im very happy with the encapsulation from the glass, and i destroyed all the other pieces trying to remove the glass from the wood with no success - sweet!

 

[mickyryan]

better then new that's for sure lol

 

[Woodonglass]

Here's the way I look at it. If you do the glass work correctly and maintain the boat properly, you shouldn't have to worry about drainage cuz there won't be any water below deck!!!!

 

[gsxrdan]

Here's the way I look at it. If you do the glass work correctly and maintain the boat properly, you shouldn't have to worry about drainage cuz there won't be any water below deck!!!!

Lol finaly someone gave me the answer I wanted to hear!! Thanks wood, its just theres so many peeps say "yeah well water will always find a way..." but why should it - if the job is done right then the whole underdeck should be watertight
Ok, im gonna block up those side holes and just go with drainage from front deck/seat pockets, and fuel cell (unless thats supposed to be fuel tight in case of tank rupture????? )

 

[mickyryan]

here is the rub ... condensation that is the moisture monster it takes 20 degrees difference to make condensation so better to have it breath then to be air tight.

 

[gsxrdan]

tee hee feelin petty chuffed with meself i is: Heres the drainage solution!

 

[gsxrdan]

Nah just kidding - i worked out that the fiberglass dont stick to plastic, and since all that was needed was keeping the foam out, so I draped a garbage bag over the template and laid some scraps of mat ova the top with some resin- done!

 

[kcassells]

Very cool idea. So now you gots flow from all areas and out...at least that's better than any water sitting there getting soaked up.

 

[gsxrdan]

Whatchall think?? :watermelon: