'90 Maxum 2100SR - restoration & conversion

PC on the Bayou

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All the above you just asked is the correct method.
If I'm reading your response correctly, if I go with the diagram & also put some screws through the stringer into the cleats I should be solid and well encapsulated.

Thanks for the input.
 

kcassells

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If I'm reading your response correctly, if I go with the diagram & also put some screws through the stringer into the cleats I should be solid and well encapsulated.

Thanks for the input.
You can go pb with clamps, screws dipped into 4200 or pb or a combo of both. You want to wet out the cleats and won't hurt to glass the tops or slather with pb.
 

Reserector_

Chief Petty Officer" & 2021 Splash of the Year Win
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Somehow, around the time that the site was updated, I stopped getting notifications of new posts by you, PC. I did some digging and found out that you were set to "Ignore". Needless to say, I had a lot of catching up to do.

You are making good progress considering how the weather has been lately. I was at the same stage as you exactly one year ago. I remember having to plan my work around the weather.
Rock on!

You said you may not add foam, but remember the Titanic. It didn't have foam and look how that turned out. :p
 

PC on the Bayou

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Somehow, around the time that the site was updated, I stopped getting notifications of new posts by you, PC. I did some digging and found out that you were set to "Ignore". Needless to say, I had a lot of catching up to do.

You are making good progress considering how the weather has been lately. I was at the same stage as you exactly one year ago. I remember having to plan my work around the weather.
Rock on!

You said you may not add foam, but remember the Titanic. It didn't have foam and look how that turned out. :p

Welcome back. LOL

Now that I've tented the hull and am in the stage of putting things back together, I hope to make some pretty steady progress. It was rather pleasant working inside the tent over the weekend even though it can get crowded / cluttered.

Yes, I've pretty much decided to forego the foam under the floor. Based on my measurements, I would only get about 5-7 cubic feet of foam under there which is hardly enough to float the boat. I'm pretty sure that I'm going to just concentrate on sealing everything water tight under the deck. That way, it would take a hull breach to lose the air buoyancy. I may still change my mind, though.
 

kcassells

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Welcome back. LOL

Now that I've tented the hull and am in the stage of putting things back together, I hope to make some pretty steady progress. It was rather pleasant working inside the tent over the weekend even though it can get crowded / cluttered.

Yes, I've pretty much decided to forego the foam under the floor. Based on my measurements, I would only get about 5-7 cubic feet of foam under there which is hardly enough to float the boat. I'm pretty sure that I'm going to just concentrate on sealing everything water tight under the deck. That way, it would take a hull breach to lose the air buoyancy. I may still change my mind, though.
Good....time to change your mind and add foam. Glad you are liking the tent it makes alot of work get done over the cold mos.
Do the foam and walk away! ;}
 

Reserector_

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Mine resonated a bit when I hit the floor before it was foamed. Now it sounds dead.
I remember being in the cabin of my father's sailboat as a boy and hearing the slap of the waves against the hull. I have a suspicion that the foam reduces that sort of thing. Maybe engine resonance as well.
It certainly can't hurt other than the cost.
 

PC on the Bayou

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If my final decision is to use foam, here's kinda my foam plan (rough sketch). The yellowish areas would be foamed from the transom to about the consoles (maybe a bit forward of them). Plus there are a couple of spots at the bow that may get some foam.

Capture.JPG

I'll have to do some measuring and better calculations, but I'm estimating something between about 6-8 cubic feet under the deck and if I do the gunwales also, it would b a total of 15-18 cubic feet.

If I go through the effort and expense of ordering foam from US Composites, then I'll probably just go ahead and spring for it all rather than just under the decks.
 

PC on the Bayou

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While we're on the subject of foam, I do have a question for the forum.

Can you shape and then glass directly over the foam? I am thinking that the resin wouldn't affect the foam (i.e., melt it) so this would be possible. I'm, obviously, not talking about the deck, but in other areas where structurally it wouldn't matter, could this be done?
 

Reserector_

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There were some pour holes on top of me flotation boxes along the sides that I did not plug first. I just sealed them with glass and resin, and it didn't eat the foam.
As far as shaping, I would think you'd need at least a rough form to pour it into.
 

PC on the Bayou

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There were some pour holes on top of me flotation boxes along the sides that I did not plug first. I just sealed them with glass and resin, and it didn't eat the foam.
As far as shaping, I would think you'd need at least a rough form to pour it into.

I was thinking about, maybe, using some temporary forms to do the mold and then remove them and cover the foam with glass (e.g., on the gunwales). This would save the weight of having wood there where it isn't needed structurally. Also, maybe something similar around my motor box, etc..
 

kcassells

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Anytime you cut, scrap, penetrate pour in foam you actually are causing damage whereas the "closed" cells are no longer closed and permit water intrusion.
To remedy that you would want to epoxy/poly over all those areas to make them closed cells again. On higher # foams you can actually drive a screw in etc, so that is now a structural foam vs. flotation foam.
 

Reserector_

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As foam expands, it pushes out in all directions. Your forms will need to be fairly rigid to force the expansion upward. Use stiff plywood, for example. Especially if you will be removing it; it can be as braced and heavy as it needs to be.
 

kcassells

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Wase of time building forms. Buy some extra heavy contractor bags. Put into cavity fill with foam for shape. Then trim off the top and poxy it to seal the cells. Foam in a bag. Not new.
 

kcassells

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Wase of time building forms. Buy some extra heavy contractor bags. Put into cavity fill with foam for shape. Then trim off the top and poxy it to seal the cells. Foam in a bag. Not new.
Oopps just noticed you said gunnels. I may be wrong and anyone can chime in but I think wood and glass under the gunnels is structural whereas you don 't get a twist in the shape or form of the gunnel.
 

PC on the Bayou

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Oopps just noticed you said gunnels. I may be wrong and anyone can chime in but I think wood and glass under the gunnels is structural whereas you don 't get a twist in the shape or form of the gunnel.

In my boat, the carpet was glued directly to the hull there. There were only a couple spots where there was structural support.

What I was thinking was that I could put some vertical wood supports tabbed to the hull with foam between them (glassed in). That way the original structural support would be there (actually more than original) busave the weight of completely building wood enclosures. I will try to sketch what I am talking about in the near future.
 

PC on the Bayou

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Got a pretty bit done over the weekend. Finished PB'ing in the sub-floor of the ski locker as well as the bulkheads for the anchor locker, installed the main cleats on the stringers and got about half of the capping done. Next weekend, I plan to finish capping the stringers and bulkheads as well as putting a layer of csm in the ski locker and fuel tank locker. I, also, hope to get a good coat of gelcoat in the ski locker and fuel tank locker. At that point, I'll take some more pictures, before installing the deck boards.
 

PC on the Bayou

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Wow!! Has it really been that long since I posted on this thread.

Lots of stuff going on during the holiday to distract me from getting much done. I promise that I've not abandoned it. Now that the holidays are done, I hope to get back on it full steam.

The cool weather is slowing me down a bit as well. Even with the tent, on the coolest days that we've been having lately, it takes quite a while to get the temp up where I want it in the tent / boat. This, I guess, is one of the drawbacks to not having an enclosed shop / garage to work in. Here in Southern Louisiana, we have mild winters, though, so I should still be able to work most of the time.

New pictures and progress coming soon . . .
 

Reserector_

Chief Petty Officer" & 2021 Splash of the Year Win
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It was 65° Sunday after church. You're further south than me. Just saying...
We demand action! (and pics)
 
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