'90 Maxum 2100SR - restoration & conversion

[buxmj]

Hey PC, what I have been using more than rollers are chip brushes but cut the bristles down to an inch or so and that helps force the resin down into the fabric. For 1708 I like coating the CSM side and then flipping it in place and then doing the mat side. You can use a trash bag or plastic if you need to keep the area free of resin, you can even do it on a workbench and then take the plastic where it needs to go and just peel it off the plastic and set it in place and use the brush to finish wetting it out.

Buck

 

[PC on the Bayou]

Hey PC, what I have been using more than rollers are chip brushes but cut the bristles down to an inch or so and that helps force the resin down into the fabric. For 1708 I like coating the CSM side and then flipping it in place and then doing the mat side. You can use a trash bag or plastic if you need to keep the area free of resin, you can even do it on a workbench and then take the plastic where it needs to go and just peel it off the plastic and set it in place and use the brush to finish wetting it out.

Buck

That sounds like a good method. I may try the pre-coating & flip method when I do my bulkheads. I can also see where a short bristle brush or maybe even a paddle spreader may work to force in the resin better.

Thanks for the inputs!!

 

[PC on the Bayou]

Cut my bulkheads, fuel tank locker floor, and ski locker floor today. Put a layer of CSM on the two floor pieces and paintd the bulkheads with a layer of resin.

Will have to make a run. For more resin before making PB to glue/bed in these parts. I'll wait on pics until I get them in place.

 

[PC on the Bayou]

Question for inputs:

Now that I'm putting in the bulkheads and sub-floors (ski locker & fuel tank area), I would like to get opinions. I'm considering running a PVC drain from the anchor locker & ski locker to the bilge area (under the fuel tank sub-floor) and would like some opinions on the idea.

Since the fuel tank and ski lockers have sub-floors, I don't want water trapped under there to cause rot on the sub-floors and/or main bulkheads (one between the fuel tank locker and bilge and the other between the fuel tank locker and ski locker). I also don't want trash collecting under there (e.g., grime from the anchor locker).

1. Would it be advisable to route a drain pipe from the anchor locker and ski locker to the bilge and then completely seal under the sub-floors to not allow water under there or would there be too much risk of water getting trapped there?
2. Would it be more advisable to just let the ski locker and anchor locker to drain under the sub-floor and run through openings in the bulkheads to the bilge?

I'm getting very close to having to make the final decision; so, any inputs are welcomed.

For additional consideration, my sub-floors and bulkheads will be throroughly encapsulated.

 

[PC on the Bayou]

This weekend, I installed my bulkheads and filleted them. The cooler weather makes it a bit more limited on working the resin; but it gives me good working time, too.

Since today is football day (Go Saints, WhoDat!), I spent the morning removing carpet residue and sanding some more. Next step is to laminate the bulkheads and cap the stringers and bulkheads.

As promised, here are some pics of the stringers and bulkheads in place.

 

[PC on the Bayou]

As you can see from my pictures, above I decided to keep it open under the sub floors.

I believe that I have decided, also, to forego foam under the deck. There is very little space there, so if I just seal everything well (water tight) the entrapped air will provide floatation. There was no foam on the original build and it isn't required on a 21 ft boat. I may still change my mind, though.

 

[todhunter]

Looking good. Did you just use a short piece of PVC to make the drain between compartments? Just filleted in place with PB?

 

[PC on the Bayou]

Looking good. Did you just use a short piece of PVC to make the drain between compartments? Just filleted in place with PB?

Yes, I cut a short piece of 1.5 PBC and PB'ed it in. I also used this technique with 3/4 PVC for the transom drain hole.

 

[PC on the Bayou]

Placed a last-minute order from US Composites for more Cabosil.. Realized over the weekend that needed more Cabosil (i.e., ran out). It takes a lot of PB to do all those fillets and other things you use it for.

While I was at it I ordered a few other supplies as to get them bundled in the shipping cost. I've learned that the heavier stuff (CSM, 1708, resin, gelcoat) is cheaper to get locally, due to shipping costs, but a lot of the lighter stuff is cheaper online even with the shipping costs.

 

[todhunter]

How much Cabosil you reckon you're going to need, all in? I only ordred a 4 lb container to start...I'm sure I'll probably need more. Also, I'd be interested to see what you mean about the 3/4" PVC for the drain hole on the transom.

 

[PC on the Bayou]

How much Cabosil you reckon you're going to need, all in? I only ordred a 4 lb container to start...I'm sure I'll probably need more.

I would think that 4 lbs would be plenty. I have used 1 ea. 5 qt. bucket so far and ordered 2 more. Each 5 qt. is about 1/2 lb..

 

[PC on the Bayou]

Also, I'd be interested to see what you mean about the 3/4" PVC for the drain hole on the transom.

I borrowed the idea from another thread (I think it was FriscoBoater's thread. The idea is to make sure that there is no way for water to get to the transom wood. What I did was cut an arch at the bottom of my transom board (see 1st pic).



And then when I installed it, I aligned a piece of PVC with the garboard drain and packed (bedded) PB around it to completely seal the arch and thus not allow any water to be able to get to the wood. Once the PB was cured, I trimmed the pipe and formed it and the PB into the lower fillet. You can see in the following picture that I then put the tabbing and final skin of the transom over all of this.



I have now trimmed my keyhole and the opening for the pipe out which you can see here.



One other thing that I did was pre drill my out drive mounting holes oversized and fill them with PB before skinning and gluing in the wood. I will soon drill them out to 9/16 for mounting the out drive and the holes will be completely waterproof as well. I didn't see where anyone else did this but thought that it would be a good way to keep the wood from ever encountering water. You can see this in all of the pics.

 

[todhunter]

I would think that 4 lbs would be plenty. I have used 1 ea. 5 qt. bucket so far and ordered 2 more. Each 5 qt. is about 1/2 lb..

I was wrong - I bought 4 gallons of Cabosil, not 4 lb. But still, sounds like I should be OK.

 

[PC on the Bayou]

I was wrong - I bought 4 gallons of Cabosil, not 4 lb. But still, sounds like I should be OK.

I would think so, too. But it is pretty cheap and light; so it's easy to order more if needed. What I did on my latest order was watch the weight of what I was ordering and group some other supplies that I would be needing in the not too distant future (i.e., some gelcoat tint, glass microballoons, and some more 1/4 milled fibers along with the cabosil). I'm hoping it'll all come in one box for a lower shipping charge. For all of this, it worked out cheaper than buying the cabosil & microballoons locally.

One thing I have been surprised on is that you don't see good prices on any of this type of materials on the big online superstore (you, I'm sure know which one) where their free shipping would apply. Looks like these supplies from them are higher cost and smaller quantities than what I was looking for.

 

[PC on the Bayou]

Continuing to tab in and laminate the bulkheads. My sully shipment should come in tomorrow, too. I plan to cap the stringers and bulkheads tomorrow and possibly cut out my deck panels.

 

[PC on the Bayou]

Seems like the cooler weather and rain are going to hang around for a while making it tough to work with resin.

Looks like I am going to be fashioning a cover/tent for the boat so that I can warm it up.

 

[PC on the Bayou]

Question for people smarter than me or at least with more insight:

How safe is it to work inside a tent with the polyester resin with a space heater? Is there a significant risk of flash (fire) from the vapors? Would it be better to "warm it up" in the tent before working the resin, turn off the heater while working, and then put the heater back on to keep it warm for cure?

From what I've seen they say no open flames; but I don't see anything about heat in general.

 

[todhunter]

Question for people smarter than me or at least with more insight:

How safe is it to work inside a tent with the polyester resin with a space heater? Is there a significant risk of flash (fire) from the vapors? Would it be better to "warm it up" in the tent before working the resin, turn off the heater while working, and then put the heater back on to keep it warm for cure?

From what I've seen they say no open flames; but I don't see anything about heat in general.

I'm sure others will pipe in, but I'd say you're OK to use it while actively heating. Remember - flash point is defined as the temperature at which a compound begins to give off vapors - this is not the same as the ignition point. I work a lot with a spray adhesive for a hobby business I have and it has warnings all over it for no open flames. I've used it for years in my garage with a kerosene heater. As long as you don't have an open (uncontained) flame, I would think you will be OK. I'm not worried at all, but I'd be even less worried if your space heater is electric. Of course, the safe thing to do is to follow the warnings on the label, and do what you feel is safe.

 

[PC on the Bayou]

I put together a "tent" to cover the boat while I continue to work fiberglassing and installation. Sorry no pictures yet, but I'll give you more soon (it's a mess in the boat/tent right now). A 1500 watt space heater plus my lights are giving me plenty of warmth. It was up to 75-80 degrees in there while it was in the 40's & 50's outside. I'm confident that I can keep going through our south Louisiana winter if necessary.

I put in my forward bulkhead (anchor locker) in the bow and PB'd in the fuel tank & ski locker subfloors, and glassed the underside of my deck wood. I also cut out some additional wood and the cleats to add onto the stringers so that I can install my deck.

I am planning to use PB on the cleats to "glue" them to the stringers. Do most of you, also, screw them to the stringers or will the PB be enough to be solid if I clamp them good until the PB fully sets? Also, do you usually do more than put a coat of resin on the cleats (i.e., actually cover them with CSM)?

I was, also, thinking about including a "cap" of CSM over the stringer and cleat to encapsulate the entire thing rather than capping the stringer and then attaching the cleat. Would the 1708 and PB be enough to isolate the cleat from the stringer or should I cap the stringer first and not worry about capping / encapsulating the cleat?

 

[kcassells]

I put together a "tent" to cover the boat while I continue to work fiberglassing and installation. Sorry no pictures yet, but I'll give you more soon (it's a mess in the boat/tent right now). A 1500 watt space heater plus my lights are giving me plenty of warmth. It was up to 75-80 degrees in there while it was in the 40's & 50's outside. I'm confident that I can keep going through our south Louisiana winter if necessary.

I put in my forward bulkhead (anchor locker) in the bow and PB'd in the fuel tank & ski locker subfloors, and glassed the underside of my deck wood. I also cut out some additional wood and the cleats to add onto the stringers so that I can install my deck.

I am planning to use PB on the cleats to "glue" them to the stringers. Do most of you, also, screw them to the stringers or will the PB be enough to be solid if I clamp them good until the PB fully sets? Also, do you usually do more than put a coat of resin on the cleats (i.e., actually cover them with CSM)?

I was, also, thinking about including a "cap" of CSM over the stringer and cleat to encapsulate the entire thing rather than capping the stringer and then attaching the cleat. Would the 1708 and PB be enough to isolate the cleat from the stringer or should I cap the stringer first and not worry about capping / encapsulating the cleat? View attachment 330086

All the above you just asked is the correct method.