86 Sea Ray Restoration [Splashed Oct 2017]

[Goldie627]

My thoughts, from what I understand the pertonox set up I have has no adjustment, it either works or it doesn't. After three pumps of throttle to begin the day it starts every time. So I'm thinking it may not be the new electromic points or the new coil, it actually idles better than it ever has....

Scott suggested that may be the springs/weights in the distributor .....

I'm at a loss, I'm not sure where to look first...

 

[Goldie627]

Manual calls for 6btdc, but it wasn't smooth there so I advanced the timing to 8btdc, could that be causing the spuddering?

 

[Goldie627]

hey guys, i took the boat out again today...

while i was out there i checked the timing and it was fine...

idle is ok

sometimes motor will cut off when going into reverese, seems like the shif interupt is ingauging for too long or the shif interupt doesnt like the timing to be adavnced?

ok now here is the biggest problem im having....

cant got wot, can get about half throttle but this is where it gets wierd.....

moving the thorottle up or down can cause the sputter or gasp, but you can find sweet spots on the thorottle where you can go for miles with no sputter or very lil sputter, its just a pita finding those sweet spots i wanna give it the goose and go!! what if somebody is coming at me and i have to get out the way... i cant be looking for sweet spots on the throttle...

scott was thinking distributer springs and weights but the only thing about that is when i take off the distributer cap and turn the rotar its snaps right back so im not too sure about that... i am looking at my carb rebuild tho, i cant think of anything else... any suggestions are welcome, oh and it runs fine at idle

so i was out on the river today and sometimes you get in a line of boats drifting, pretty much all of us are jigging for salmon, one of the guys says

"nice boat, thats one of the nicest restores ive seen out here" I felt so gooood, if only he new about my sputter! LOL of course i didnt say anything and took the complimernt gracefully :watermelon:

after the carpet binding and sputter are done ill take pics and video and will call the boat finished!!!!:couch2::bounce::bounce::afro::gossip:

 

[Goldie627]

another minor thing, when i rebuilt the traler i left the bunks loose so i could let the boat dictate the bunk alignment.... well..... i forgot to tighten them up!!! so last two times out i scuffed the buttom from coming in at a slight angle. first time wasnt too bad but last night a boat came to the doc going crazzy fast in the no wake zone, the waves caused my boat to turn as i was coming on the trailer!! put a big scrape light gash underneath!!! it was dark out so i never seen him coming, I just cant understand why some people are so rude!!!! 98% of the people ive encountered on the water have been super cool and nice, its that 2% whos escapades are legendary!!! LOL anyway, luckily i know a guy who can fix it!! heh heh heh :watermelon:

after it tighten the bunks and fix the keel damage i may look at a different style keel roller (one without the metal edges near the top) but honestly i dont think it will happen again after i tighten the bunks..... but you never know with the 2% lurking about eep:....

 

[Goldie627]

im online looking for a new carb, i dont think its my pertronix electric ignition and coil, from what i know the pertonix either works or it doesnt, not like points that have varring degrees of efectiveness depending on adjustment and contact condition (pitted, dirty, etc.)

still not sure what im gonna do though, probably gonna wait to hear from you guys before i order any new parts

side note: i returned the new distributer i bought during my previous trouble shooting because it idled so well on the old existing distributer, plus timing mark stays where i put it, if it was a bad distributor i think the timing mark wouldnt stay still, i think it would jump all over?

suspects....

1. carb
2. pertronix
3. distributer

 

[Goldie627]

just ordered another new carb..... hopefully this time i dont get a lemon!!

also ordered another new distributer, i had returned the other new one thinking my old one was ok, if my problem turns out to be the old carb and the new carb runs good ill add the new distributer after everything is running solid.

my nephew jalen came and helped me wash the boat.... first time in three years she got a bath!

i just noticed this pic was before my anti splip stuff on the wheel wells ill snap some newer pics soon....

 

[Goldie627]

i finally found a carpet im happy with... 24oz olfin uv bcf.... going this moring to talk to a guy about doing my binding and maybe snaps.....

 

[Goldie627]

bow leds....

 

[Goldie627]

bow leds....

 

[Goldie627]

another led shot from stern...

 

[Goldie627]

almost ready to splash!!! at this point im a lil more than a drizzle..... :watermelon::cheer2::bounce:

 

[Goldie627]

i just dont want to drill into my floor for snaps, what do you guys think? snaps or no snaps?

 

[Goldie627]

boat tour coming soon....

 

[Goldie627]

one more thing, after test running i noticed valve cover is leaking, the gasket came but i wanna see how this whole wot sputtering ordeal plays out before i change it

 

[Goldie627]

the best day is going to be me posting a pic of me on my boat with a salmon!!!!

 

[Goldie627]

things left to do...

1. figure out no wot and intermittent sputter / unreliable throttle
2. install new carb (again)
3. install new distributer
4. install valve cover gasket
5. tighten bunks
6. repair some keel damage
7. tighten a loose trim ram line
8. carpet binding (maybe snaps too)
9. fabricate rod storage
10. finish the storage box that goes ontop of the doghouse behind the cusion
11. shape two rear floor drop in covers
12. shape the top of the bow storage where it make contact with led wires
13. catch me a darn salmon!!! :fish::bounce:

 

[Rick Stephens]

Been thinking about this. Kind of a tough one to come up with a simple answer, however, all engine mechanicing starts with the simple basic stuff and seldom proceeds to the more arcane. I enjoy working on engines and owned a lot of 'junk' in my life, so I HAD to wrench a lot. Working on an old boat motor makes me feel right at home. I can see where it might not be such a comfort zone for most people though. If I had advice, it would be to always slow down, and take it one piece at a time.

First thing is getting fuel. Make sure you have a clean source and that fuel pump is delivering enough. TEST IT. Pull the line off the carburetor, stuff it in a coke bottle and crank the engine. Did you get a good flow?

Next is carburetor. Is it perfectly clean inside? If in doubt, do it again and make sure every passage is open and free of debris or grunge. This is much more important than adjusting it correctly. All it takes is one passage blocked with ethanol crystals or varnish from evaporated old fuel to screw up a good running motor. Make for sure and for certain that the float height is perfect.

I have never meessed with pertronix pointless ignition, but it appears simple as can be and doesn't change your timing adjustment. Check its operation by hooking up a timing light with an electronic advance. Set it to base timing, I think you said 6 or 8 degrees BTDC. Then set the electronic advance on the light to something like 20 BTDC and accelerate your motor up 1800 or so RPM - did the advance work and do you see the timing advance to some where between 20 and 26 BTDC when the engine spins up over 1800?

Those are the basic starting place for every motor. Once you have those, and knw they are right, then you can move on to other stuff.

Rick

 

[Goldie627]

Been thinking about this. Kind of a tough one to come up with a simple answer, however, all engine mechanicing starts with the simple basic stuff and seldom proceeds to the more arcane. I enjoy working on engines and owned a lot of 'junk' in my life, so I HAD to wrench a lot. Working on an old boat motor makes me feel right at home. I can see where it might not be such a comfort zone for most people though. If I had advice, it would be to always slow down, and take it one piece at a time.

First thing is getting fuel. Make sure you have a clean source and that fuel pump is delivering enough. TEST IT. Pull the line off the carburetor, stuff it in a coke bottle and crank the engine. Did you get a good flow?

Next is carburetor. Is it perfectly clean inside? If in doubt, do it again and make sure every passage is open and free of debris or grunge. This is much more important than adjusting it correctly. All it takes is one passage blocked with ethanol crystals or varnish from evaporated old fuel to screw up a good running motor. Make for sure and for certain that the float height is perfect.

I have never meessed with pertronix pointless ignition, but it appears simple as can be and doesn't change your timing adjustment. Check its operation by hooking up a timing light with an electronic advance. Set it to base timing, I think you said 6 or 8 degrees BTDC. Then set the electronic advance on the light to something like 20 BTDC and accelerate your motor up 1800 or so RPM - did the advance work and do you see the timing advance to some where between 20 and 26 BTDC when the engine spins up over 1800?

Those are the basic starting place for every motor. Once you have those, and knw they are right, then you can move on to other stuff.

Rick

Thanks Rick, excellent advise as usual :hail::tea::thumb:

I'll try your suggestion of taking off the gas line and cranking the motor, i havent tried that yet. It does get 2 nice flowing streams when you pull back the accelerator arm though i know thats not a good test of required gas intake.... i also got a new fuel pump (I know from experience new doesn't guarantee working it simply implys working ! ive also bypassed the main tank and ran off a gas jug. When I rebuilt the carb I was meticulous, took my time and did it right, but thinking back only thing is I didn't have a parts washer so I used a bucket and canned carbeuater cleanner. I didnt change the float during my carb rebuild because the new float didn't have any registration marks on it and I wasn't seasoned enough to be trying to guess, all fuel lines are new event the brass hard line from the carb to the fuel pump....

I'm not going to fiddle with the old carb, I got a new one coming should be here Thursday.

I have to check scotts timing light to see if it has that feature, that makes total since to confirm that the timing is advancing, would explain why there is no top end.....

you tha man rick! :first:​

leave it to me to get the ghost problems, instead of the easy peezy stuff:lalala:op2:

 

[Goldie627]

my brother fell off the row machine at 24hour fitness! LMAO :laugh: so i added extra anti slip stuff on the wheel wells....

 

[Goldie627]

binding all done...