86 Sea Ray Restoration [Splashed Oct 2017]

[Goldie627]

Yes. Full setup is with a lean bar for fly fishing.

That is a sweet setup, I could never do the whole kayak thing but I'd feel right at home on that pontoon! About how many hours you get from your trolling battery?

 

[Goldie627]

look what came this morning...

 

[Goldie627]

thought I would do the valve cover while I'm there...

 

[Goldie627]

crisp and clean :watermelon:​

 

[Goldie627]

Easy peasy.... only thing is my torque wrench only goes down to 6.8nm and spec is I believe 4.5nm so I hand tightened them then went with quarter turn on the wrench....

 

[Goldie627]

so I get the new carb on and it did the same thing that the other Sierra carb did just not as bad, air fuel mixture screw has no effect on idle and only seems to run with idle high...... I ran out of time before work to trouble shoot, I was thinking that my timing is advanced from the book spec of 4btdc to 8btdc to make it run right.... I wonder..... if I retard the timing to manual spec 4btdc maybe it will run right? It's wishful thinking but I'm going to try everything I can before sending this carb back...

oh and rick.... it's getting plenty of fuel where the hard line goes into the carb.....

 

[Goldie627]

I know its a long shot but... in the morning I'm going to increase the idle to see if I can get the new carb to start consistently and run without dieing.... then if I can do that I will drop the timing down which will theoreticcaly drop the idle back down to an acceptable range... any other thoughts? I'm also trying to find a fuel pressure gauge from a local auto parts store

 

[Goldie627]

I found a fuel pressure tester but it's intended use is for cars with a shredder valve test port :facepalm: I'll keep looking

 

[Goldie627]

so far ive ordered two of these carbs - sierra marine [FONT=&quot]18-7370N[/FONT]

they both had air fuel mixture screws that had no effect on idle and seem to not run at low rpms, do those symptoms point to something else? just a coincidence that both new carbs would have such similar problems, im hopeing to atleast get it to idle before the new distributer gets here, im going to work on it in the morning

 

[Rick Stephens]

That is a sweet setup, I could never do the whole kayak thing but I'd feel right at home on that pontoon! About how many hours you get from your trolling battery?

The reason I own a big ol' fiberglass boat with a 10 HP Honda gas motor on the back is I was always rowing back from a morning trolling. That cataraft can take up to a 7.5 HP motor, and when I went looking for a gas motor so I could troll longer, I ended up buying a boat boat instead of just a gas motor for a soap bubble.

I enjoy the cataraft. It can go places you wouldn't take the boat. But I enjoy fishing in the boat in the comfort of reclining seats a lot more

 

[Rick Stephens]

so far ive ordered two of these carbs - sierra marine [FONT=&quot]18-7370N[/FONT]

they both had air fuel mixture screws that had no effect on idle and seem to not run at low rpms, do those symptoms point to something else? just a coincidence that both new carbs would have such similar problems, im hopeing to atleast get it to idle before the new distributer gets here, im going to work on it in the morning

Hook up a vacuum gauge to the plugged port just to the rear of the carb. You can diagnose quite a few issue with that simple test instrument.

 

[Goldie627]

The reason I own a big ol' fiberglass boat with a 10 HP Honda gas motor on the back is I was always rowing back from a morning trolling. That cataraft can take up to a 7.5 HP motor, and when I went looking for a gas motor so I could troll longer, I ended up buying a boat boat instead of just a gas motor for a soap bubble.

I enjoy the cataraft. It can go places you wouldn't take the boat. But I enjoy fishing in the boat in the comfort of reclining seats a lot more

Yup, that's exactly why I was so eager to get my add a battery kit, it came with an acr built into the charger which supposedly isolates the starter battery from the house battery.... well see because I plan to go trolling real soon, my line counter reels came last week along with a few new trolling poles..... I'll let ya know run time and how it worked out

 

[mr300z87]

First let me say I am no expert on carbs since I grew up and started driving towards the end of their existence in the auto industry. However my boats have 4 barrel carbs one is a Rochester, the other a Weber/Edlebrock. and my 1968 Plymouth has a Carter(similar to the Weber). For the most part they are a simple air/fuel metering devices, and they just kinda work or don't. Since you are having the same problem with both the the carbs you purchased I am going to say its not a carb issue. Although do open up the carb and make sure the float level is dead on even though the carb is new/refurbished. Do you know if this engine has ever worked properly since you have owned the boat? I know you have been restoring her for a few years but did is ever work. Your problem sound to me like either a timing advance or fuel starvation problem. Have you checked the timing advance as mentioned in an earlier post? Also make sure all your engine wiring is clean and tight, Another thing to try is to disconnect the tach as I have heard stories of a failed tachs causing running issues. One last thing I want to mention is that I recommend using OE parts for almost everything as my experience with both my cars and boats has not been to good. Can you post a vidoe of how she sound when sputtering as this might help in diagnosis since we are not there and hearing what you are

As some one above mention check each thing one at a time and do not just through parts at it. I know it is frustrating to be this close but yet so far away. When I launched my Sea Ray Sundancer project this spring it broke down on its maiden voyage and I had to get towed back to the marina I thought this is going to be a short season. Knock on wood I installed a brand new Edelbrock 4 barrel carb back in June and she has been running great since.

Keep on it and you will get the kinks worked.

Mike

 

[Goldie627]

My brother has been going on a alot of fishing charter boats lately. Tonight he had a fish fry! rock fish, halibut and others. His baked blackened fish was sooooooo good! i hadda work but came late my brothers both outdid themselves, it was like an early thanks giving!!! :laugh:

 

[Goldie627]

First let me say I am no expert on carbs since I grew up and started driving towards the end of their existence in the auto industry. However my boats have 4 barrel carbs one is a Rochester, the other a Weber/Edlebrock. and my 1968 Plymouth has a Carter(similar to the Weber). For the most part they are a simple air/fuel metering devices, and they just kinda work or don't. Since you are having the same problem with both the the carbs you purchased I am going to say its not a carb issue.

You would think that getting two bad carbs isnt likely but..... yes it happened. I put my old carb back on and it fired right up as soon as gas made its way up the line.

Although do open up the carb and make sure the float level is dead on even though the carb is new/refurbished.

I am going to take my carb apart in the morning and check my float measurements, im thinking if the float is too low there isnt enough reserve fuel maybe, i dont think the float is too high becasue its not flooding if im understanding correctly how the float works.

Do you know if this engine has ever worked properly since you have owned the boat? I know you have been restoring her for a few years but did is ever work.

After i purchased the boat i only took it out once or twice before i decided to make it right and restore it. But from the best of my memory it ran and never stalled or had anything odd happen.

Your problem sound to me like either a timing advance or fuel starvation problem. Have you checked the timing advance as mentioned in an earlier post?

Initially i didnt think it was the timing adanvce because when i twist the rotar it snaps back and i visually did not witness any rust or seiszing or anything out of sorts in the distributer. with that being said, they are 40 year old springs and weights and maybe the snap back test is not a concluisve test. I should take rick suggestion and i believe i understand what to do i just need to re read his post.

Also make sure all your engine wiring is clean and tight,

During the restoration i replaced any wires that even remotely looked suspect, all new gauges, new bus bars , new fuse block, new switches, new batteries, new automatic charge relay and battery switch, new battery cables, etc..

Another thing to try is to disconnect the tach as I have heard stories of a failed tachs causing running issues.

My tach seems to be working in an acceptable range, its no shop tach but it seems ok

One last thing I want to mention is that I recommend using OE parts for almost everything as my experience with both my cars and boats has not been to good.

Im a fan of OE myself but i have to look at availability and price also. Sierra marine carbs are around 500 - 540 OE if you can find one is almost double that

Can you post a vidoe of how she sound when sputtering as this might help in diagnosis since we are not there and hearing what you are

i surely can but its my deepest sincerest hope that the next test run will be the last test run!!

As some one above mention check each thing one at a time and do not just through parts at it. I know it is frustrating to be this close but yet so far away. When I launched my Sea Ray Sundancer project this spring it broke down on its maiden voyage and I had to get towed back to the marina I thought this is going to be a short season. Knock on wood I installed a brand new Edelbrock 4 barrel carb back in June and she has been running great since.

Keep on it and you will get the kinks worked.

Mike

Thanks for all the input and vote of confidence, im just really ready to stop working on the boat and start using it! salmon season is about to start picking up in a few weeks!

 

[Goldie627]

the original mercarb that i rebuilt idles fine its just the top end and sketchy throtle positions, i have it boiled down to the timing advance and/or carb float out of adjust ment,

 

[Goldie627]

so far ive ordered two of these carbs - sierra marine [FONT=&quot]18-7370N[/FONT]

they both had air fuel mixture screws that had no effect on idle and seem to not run at low rpms, do those symptoms point to something else? just a coincidence that both new carbs would have such similar problems, im hopeing to atleast get it to idle before the new distributer gets here, im going to work on it in the morning

i found a vacum gauge but i was actually looking for a fuel pressure tester because i know for a fact im getting fuel, im just not 100 percent positive its enough fuel, i think it is but without testing im not sure....

im going to look up that port in the manual

 

[Rick Stephens]

i found a vacum gauge but i was actually looking for a fuel pressure tester because i know for a fact im getting fuel, im just not 100 percent positive its enough fuel, i think it is but without testing im not sure....

im going to look up that port in the manual

The plug is the only thing in the top of the manifold between the carb and the exhaust elbow. Just a plain ol 1/4" pipe plug. .

 

[Goldie627]

update: spent all weekend working on the engine :faint2:

new distributer was different from OE so i hadda ditch the pertonix set up. on a positive note, the new distributer starts strong and fast. also had to ditch the flame thower II coil it was making my number 1 plug drop out, plus coil got super duper hot!:mad2: good thing i caught it in time and swapped it for the old cool coil. luckily i left my resistor wire in tackt so the swap back was fairly easy except for cutting away the mile of electrical tape i wrapped around the loom of wires on the side of the rocker arm cover. ound:


the new carb is going back, i did everything i could to try to make it work, that sierra carb is a polished turd!!! this is my second one.... but then again.... fool me once shame on you, fool me twice shame on........ my neighbor LOL eep: :doh:


i put the new float in the old carb that i passed on installing when i did the rebuild becasue of the missing registration marks, but now i figured out exatcly where the tow is so im pretty confident with my measurements and adjustments of the new float


timing is set at 12 btdc and idle is around 1000, im going to put it in that water and bump down the timing to as close as 4btdc as i can get it or till smooth whatever comes first, then tweak the carb a lil, then go for a test run, if there is still no top end ill cross that bride when i get there, seems fine on the trailer tho

just thinking, if there is still no top end wont be the distributer so will have to be carb. at that point ill have the shop rebuild the carb along with my pride!:eyebrows::yo:

i spent so much time on that rebuild i just knew i hit a home run... i guess well find out on the next test run

:bolt:

my snards came but i was so bizzy with the motor i didnt even open the box, ill ckeck them out 2maro and post some pix

oh and my rocker arm cover is still leaking, noticed that some of my bolts had backed off so i retightend and wiped up any visable oil from the bilge and top of the motor... wasnt alot but still too much for me!

scott says he doent like the cork style gaskets, i havent been able to find a rubber style gasket yet if anybody knows where to order from please let me know

persistent leak could have been me not snuggin up the bolts enough:noidea:

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Good luck Goldie....as much as you worked on this boat you deserve to catch a break!!