86 Sea Ray Restoration [Splashed Oct 2017]

[Goldie627]

 

[Goldie627]

 

[Goldie627]

Pretty much sanded and ready for tabbing, gotta fix a few PB low spots but other than that almost there...

 

[Goldie627]

im thinking about routing the edges off of a scrap piece of 3/4 ply, then try to go over the top to simulate me going over the top of my stringers... just a thought, the stringer would be kinda rounded off but the 2 by 2's that are used for cleats should supply ample glue and screw surface, any thoughts??

 

[Goldie627]

Hey wood, put this to rest for me, do you have a way of making a PL fillet "not" bubble? I may have miss quoted you and want to set the record straight. I tried the ole paint thinner trick and it did smooth them out, but as soon as i turned my back the bubbles returned and gave me the finger! its really not a big deal but if you got something up your sleeve, please share

 

[Goldie627]

 

[tpenfield]

Nice fillets . . . you are the master of fillets..

 

[Woodonglass]

Hey wood, put this to rest for me, do you have a way of making a PL fillet "not" bubble? I may have miss quoted you and want to set the record straight. I tried the ole paint thinner trick and it did smooth them out, but as soon as i turned my back the bubbles returned and gave me the finger! its really not a big deal but if you got something up your sleeve, please share

Prolly using too much at one time. Use a little less and press down harder with BETTY to ensure you're pushing out all the air from below and in the void. You're not Power Mixing the PB are you?? Also IMHO you MIGHT be making your fillets a tad BIG. It'll make laying your glass real easy but you sure are using a LOT of resin They can be smaller and still make the glass lay down easier.

If you're using cleats I personally don't see the need to round em over. I'd coat em with resin and then once the cleats were installed I lay a strip of CSM over them to seal em Like this...

 

[Goldie627]

Nice fillets . . . you are the master of fillets..

Yeah! kinda like Master Kan When Master Kan told Caine.... "When you snatch the pebble from my hand..... it will be time for you to leave" LOL :lol:

 

[Goldie627]

Wood - Actually, what i was thinking was routing the top of the stringers so instead of it being pointy on the edge, it would be roundy on the edge. This would allow me to go over the top with no cap. After two layers of tabbing, id then come in an glue the cleats after all the tabbing was done. How does that sound? Just to be clear the tabbing would be to the boat bottom, go up and over the stringer, come down the stringer and onto the bottom (over lapping 3 to 4 inches of course). Any thoughts??

My stringers are so short it would be awesome to go capless

 

[Woodonglass]

Soooo what are the 2x2 cleats you are talking about??? This Old Dumb Okie is getting Corn-Fused!!!!

This is how I envisioned what you were saying...

 

[Goldie627]

Soooo what are the 2x2 cleats you are talking about??? This Old Dumb Okie is getting Corn-Fused!!!!

This is how I envisioned what you were saying...

That is almost exactly what i was saying but...

 

[Goldie627]

Anybody know the preferred wood to use for 2x2 cleats? When i google searched cleats it only came up with the kind of cleats you tie off with. I can get pine and probably redwood from homedepot. There is also a specialty lumber place locally that usually has a good selection. Im just not sure what to look for.

​Thanks

 

[Woodonglass]

What I'm saying about the cleats is this...If you run the 1708 tabbing to the top of the stringer and stop without rounding it over and then place the 2x2 cleats on either one side or both sides then you could just lay a strip of CSM on top to seal em off. There's really no need to go over the top unless you really feel the need. Douglass Fir is an excellent wood to use for the Cleats. If You soak it with My Old Timers Sealer It'll Never rot.

 

[Goldie627]

What I'm saying about the cleats is this...If you run the 1708 tabbing to the top of the stringer and stop without rounding it over and then place the 2x2 cleats on either one side or both sides then you could just lay a strip of CSM on top to seal em off. There's really no need to go over the top unless you really feel the need. Douglass Fir is an excellent wood to use for the Cleats. If You soak it with My Old Timers Sealer It'll Never rot.

Thank you so much, now I understand. Also, while were on this subject, is it ok not to overlap my 1708 at the top of the stringer? The reason I ask is because my stringers are so short, theres not a lot of room to work with.

What's the old timers secret seal!!!??????

 

[Goldie627]

After grinding out the bow drainage pvc pipe

 

[Goldie627]

Any suggestions for reinforcing the ski locker opening? i'm the skinny one in the family! probably ok for now, but im thinking long term, i want to do it best i can from the beginning. Also, is there a bulk head type piece that goes between the stringers up front? I guess its functionality would be to block anything from falling down into the v drain, or is it intended to be open?

Should i tractor paint the aluminum trim on my ski locker or have it powder coated? Thank you all.

I got this teak drop in for 40 buckaroos at the local boat salvage, ive got two teak pieces in the back on the upper sides, should look really nice together.

 

[Goldie627]

 

[Goldie627]

The tabbing has begun... I did the starboard side Georgesalmon style! it came out flawless, so thats the layup style im using from now on... only difference is i didn't use cardboard, i just laid it out upside down close to its real spot just not in the crease, wetted out the chopped strand side then flipped it over...

 

[Goldie627]

Just noticed my tabbing kinda reminds me of Go Speed Racer! Its kinda shaped like the Mach 5