'83 Lund "Sirius" total gut and rebuild

Rickmerrill

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Which disk did you have to take the guard off for, the flapper or resin backed? Did those furnace filters get all the dust? How often did you need to change filters? How did you supply air so the fan didn't vacuum bag you?
 

nurseman

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Which disk did you have to take the guard off for, the flapper or resin backed? Did those furnace filters get all the dust? How often did you need to change filters? How did you supply air so the fan didn't vacuum bag you?
I took the guard off for the resin backed disks, so that I could get it flat on the hull. To be honest, I tried leaving the guard on at first, but it was just in the way, so I took it off.

The furnace filters captured most of the dust. Of course I have no way to give an exact percentage, but I would guess >95% got captured. I had very little dust on the shop floor and bench after grinding, and most of that got out through my opening or through small gaps in the tent. I had to stop grinding about every 5-10 minutes and use the shopvac to clean off the filter, cause they would get plugged. I put a new filter in every time I did a new session. (I bought the 3pack for about 8 bucks at HD).

I left an opening in the back of the boat to crawl in and out through, and while I was grinding, I just left it open so that fresh air could be drawn in. By leaving only one point of entry for air, the flow across the work area is pretty good. (But you need a good high velocity fan to do the trick.)
 
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Rickmerrill

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Ok, thanks for answering. I forgot to mention earlier I like the full face mask, latest fashion from Paris! They make disposable mylar lens covers for them (3m 6885). Good insurance against resin and paint getting on that lens. I picked up a pack of 25 for about $19 and shipping from Amazon.
 

500dollar744ti

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Jul 23, 2012
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I commend your efforts! Looks like you have a lot of determination to restore this boat. I can tell you that most people would have scrapped a boat like that in a hurry and thought nothing of it. Now she'll get a second chance at life!
 

nurseman

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Rick, I agree! The full face is the only way to go! I have a bunch of the disposable lens covers that I use when I spray paint, I just didn't use them for grinding.
 

nurseman

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500dollar, I traded a guy that I used to work with for the boat. I helped him lay tile in his kitchen and he gave me the boat, o/b, and trailer. So I don't have any money tied up in her. (yet) Also, this is my first boat, so you might say that I was pretty naive when I started out to fix that piece of soft floor! At any rate, I'm all in now!!!
 

Rickmerrill

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I'm guilty of going guard less too. My excuse is that I accidentally bought a pack of 5" cut off disks. Bad habit of dangling fingers. Ruined a few pairs of gloves but luckily only one minor cut. I'll definitely try those CutArmor gloves next time I decide to take a walk on the wild side with an angle grinder.
 

nurseman

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My plan is to pick up some 3/4 ply for the transom, and some 3/8 ply to build stringers out of. Hopefully I will be starting the rebuilding phase later in the week! I am going to laminate two sheets of 3/4 ply for a total of 1.5 inches of transom, and laminate two sheets of 3/8 ply to make 3/4 inch stringers. I will post pics of progress as it occurs.
 
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nurseman

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I'm guilty of going guard less too. My excuse is that I accidentally bought a pack of 5" cut off disks. Bad habit of dangling fingers. Ruined a few pairs of gloves but luckily only one minor cut. I'll definitely try those CutArmor gloves next time I decide to take a walk on the wild side with an angle grinder.
Yea, I nicked myself a couple of times :mad-new: before I found the CutArmor gloves at HD. Luckily, the fiberglass dust clots things up pretty good!!:eek:
 

nurseman

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Made a little progress tonight. Made a cardboard template for the transom. I clamped the cardboard to the outside of the transom and then traced the hull onto it.



Then I subtracted about 1/4 inch for the hull, cut it out and presto!

 

nurseman

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I have a question for those with more glassing knowledge than me. My transom skin has this break in it. Am I correct in assuming that I want to repair the crack on the inside before I attach the transom? Or will the PB and plywood be sufficient? I would appreciate input from the more experienced!



 

jones5050

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Thanks much for the thread. Redoing my own 1982 lund guide 315 and yours is actually very close. I am pretty much at the same point as you. Sad to see the smiley face in the transom. I ended up going through the bottom twice with my flat head screwdriver while chiseling out the stringers so awaiting an answer to your last question. What density foam are you planning on using?? Poly or epoxy resin?? I will post some pics of my own later on. I don't wanna mix into your thread with them.. Thanks again and good luck looking great.
 

Rickmerrill

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Yes you will want to repair the inside area before putting the transom in.
 

jigngrub

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I have a question for those with more glassing knowledge than me. My transom skin has this break in it. Am I correct in assuming that I want to repair the crack on the inside before I attach the transom? Or will the PB and plywood be sufficient? I would appreciate input from the more experienced!




First let me say, excellent prep work!

Second, I would slap a double patch on the gaping gash sooo fast! 1708 with a 6" overlap all the way around for the first layup, and then 6" more all the way around for the second layup.

You may also want to consider "fairing the patch out" on the inside to keep it from telegraphing to the outside when you install your transom core. After the core is installed I'd do at least one layup of 1708 on the outside at the gaping gash, but 2 would be better... in the same manner as the inside repair, 6" and then 6 more inches. Fair accordingly, use a big knife! 12" sheetrock knives are underrated.

This is just the way I would fix it, some other people may just want to rub some boiled linseed oil on it and let it go, I think it needs more than that.

I really enjoyed your demolition portion of this build, it's just amazing how rotten the f'glass boats can get... and the Carpenter Ant colony was an added bonus!!!... the only thing better would've been better would've been to discover a huge 120 cubic square foot Yellow Jacket nest below deck and you had to use your Jedi light sabre to ward them off until you could activate a thermo-nuclear device to destroy them all in an instant!... we would need a video of that however.
 
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nurseman

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Thanks for the replies rickmerril and jigngrub! I kinda thought I would need to fix that first. and I do have a full complement of drywall knives...
 

nurseman

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Thanks much for the thread. Redoing my own 1982 lund guide 315 and yours is actually very close. I am pretty much at the same point as you. Sad to see the smiley face in the transom. I ended up going through the bottom twice with my flat head screwdriver while chiseling out the stringers so awaiting an answer to your last question. What density foam are you planning on using?? Poly or epoxy resin?? I will post some pics of my own later on. I don't wanna mix into your thread with them.. Thanks again and good luck looking great.


jones 5050, I am going to use poly resin, mainly because of the cost factor. I am also planning on using 2lb foam for the rebuild. Don't sweat the holes, I put a couple in the sides of mine when I was grinding :facepalm:. Apparently it is like a rite of passage or something like that.
 

nurseman

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Got my transom cut out and fitted tonight, pics are coming.
 

jigngrub

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Thanks for the replies rickmerril and jigngrub! I kinda thought I would need to fix that first. and I do have a full complement of drywall knives...

Funny as to how they refer to them as "knives" when they don't cut anything, but spread instead?


Now, let's talk about your signature... when was the last time you had a prostate exam?:eek::D:laugh::cold:
 
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