Re: '79 Starcraft SS 16 restoration
I like the counter sunk holes for the knee brace bolts. A lot better than tearing the bolts out to through bolt the pad. Still plenty of hold with the rest of the bolts. Are you going to use some 5200 to edge seal between the pad and transom? Trapped water might lead to the dreaded pits.
Hoping the you have the UV resistant type. But no biggie, it will take years of sun to take it's toll
Thanks GA, my buddy threw out the idea for routing out the cutting board and it made good sense to me.
Course, since the knee brace bolts were already in place with 5200 at the time our options were slightly limited.:facepalm:
You are correct, there are eight bolts left to keep things secure, no worries there.
I'm hoping that the fact that it will not absorb or hold water will help with the corrosion issue.
I know nothing about the make-up and UV rating for that plastic...I will say I've seen it used extensively in the rock-crawler world with great results. They typically use it in areas subject to rock contact (skid plates, nerf bars, etc...) and it's very durable, easily replaceable and relatively cheap!? I have seen others on iboats use it in other ways as well! I'd say go for it and if not happy with the results or any of the negatives you've shown concern about pop up, you can easily replace it with the epoxied plywood?!
I like that it's rot resistant and maybe have better vibration dampening that wood as I don't think it's as dense?!
Just my $.0002
Thanks for the info Baja, it's pretty tough stuff so hopefully it holds up for a little while anyway.
It's cheap for sure, I think I paid $12 for it and it's a decent size piece.
Looks a good week's worth of progress, HA.
Test the cutting board for compressibility. Kind of Neanderthallian but whack it with a hammer. I don't think it will even be marked. It is denser than plywood. UV is the big concern. It might get chalky after a while, but this is a guess.
I agree that it is denser than plywood, I tried to do what you said to mark the bolts rather than make a template and nothing marks this stuff up much at all.
The cutting board transom plate sounds like a great idea! Does PL stick to the exact make-up of that board? 4200/5200? Or thru bolt on?
A quick google @ UV stability plastic cutting board came up w/ some that were 'more' UV resistant: HDPE
and some that weren't: LDPE
The pix all looked similar to me, enough so that I couldn't tell them apart in pix. The last place I read, listed UHMW polyethylene as denser, and more resistant then either of the other 2. On a side note, the only plastic w/ a lower slip co-efficeint then UHMW is Teflon. So it might work better then other cuttingboards for other stuff too.
Thanks JB, I am not sure if this stuff has any UV resistance but a season of fishing will tell us.
I think if it's regular cutting board stuff, the UV will cause you problems
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Thanks for stopping by LL, we will see if it turns yellow and cracks soon enough.
Sure hope not, but if I get a cover for the motor maybe that will minimize any possible UV damage.
Perhaps buy a piece of Starboard.
I did not consider pricing Starboard, I wonder how much they are asking for a piece this size. Might not be too bad actually.
If I need to do this over again I will epoxy some ply or get Starboard.
lookin good. i had this thread in my bookmarks and used it quite a few times as reference for my rebuild
Hi Keith, glad that my thread may have helped out, I will check out your project and see what you have going on.
