77' 16ft Starcraftt ss

[g0nef1sshn]

Knee brace remove, this is a cleaned up view looking down from over the transom. These brown things look like a rack of old nails that was under it. you can prbably guess whicht three holes to the left of the nails are leaking.





Brace remove and cleaning up.




Hull area cleaned up some.




When it was first moved. a pile of nastiness. I even stuck the shop vac down here before I removed it. this stuff never budged,and it had rusty nails in it.



This pic shows that white corrosion behind the brace on the transom side.



She sure it purty now. This piece will me my first paint test experiment.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

W mann and C cat -

I was looking into the rivets you both mentioned and found this:

ALLOY 1100 RIVETS.—Alloy 1100 rivets aresupplied as fabricated (F) temper, and are driven inthis condition. No further treatment of the rivet isrequired before use, and the rivet’s properties do notchange with prolonged periods of storage. They arerelatively soft and easy to drive. The cold workresulting from driving increases their strengthslightly. The 1100-F rivets are used only for riveting non structural parts.These rivets are identified bytheir plain head, as shown in table 2-1.

ALLOY 2117 RIVETS.—Like the 1100-F rivets,these rivets need no further treatment before use andcan be stored indefinitely. They are furnished in thesolution-heat-treated (T4) temper, but change tosolution-heat-treated and cold-worked (T3) temperafter driving. The 2117-T4 rivet is in general usethroughout aircraft structures, and is by far the mostwidely used rivet, especially in repair work. In mostcases the 2117-T4 rivet may be substituted for2017-T4 and 2024-T4 rivets for repair work by usinga rivet with the next larger diameter. This is desirablesince both the 2017-T4 and 2024-T4 rivets must beheat treated before they are used or kept in coldstorage. The 2117-T4 rivets are identified by adimple in the head. http://navyaviation.tpub.com/14018/css/14018_60.htm

Because of the 1100 saying non structural parts, Im gonna go with the 2117's and keep an eye on that slight copper content.


Just put the order in:

100 brazier head, 5/32, L- 3/8, 2117 T4
100 brazier head, 3/16, L- 7/16, 2117 T4


Lets see if I got those right when they are in.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

heres the answer key.

 

[classiccat]

Frightening state of affairs hiding under that knee-brace!

unfortunately your "answer key" is too small to read on my laptop...but I get the gist! :lol:

 

[Watermann]

I don't know if it helps with the copper content but all of my rivets below the waterline are all slathered in 5200 before being set and the excess wiped off with acetone.

Yeah those nails, I'm thinking maybe not nails but the mild steel mandrels from the blind rivets used by SC at the factory. I had a pretty good mess on my hands with those rusted out mandrels on my Chief. That's one of the reasons why I removed every last one I could find. The blind rivets that remained had little if any mandrel left inside them and they were all loose. Check this out...

A bow lower deck support that had 2 mandrels left in behind it with corresponding corrosion damage to the hull. They were just powder.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Wmann thats probably exactly what I found then. Makes you wonder what these guys doing the install were thinking? How could they let that happen?


With the white powder corrosion/pitting areas, is there another way to nuetralize that stuff and stop it other than using that acid wash stuff? I really do not want to mess with that stuff not having a seperated garage area to keep my kids clear.

 

[jbcurt00]

White vinegar is an acid.
Look for the Hienz cleaning vinegar, its a little stronger then the others

 

[g0nef1sshn]

White vinegar is an acid.
Look for the Hienz cleaning vinegar, its a little stronger then the others

Ok i did pick up cleaning vinegar, I think because you put that pic up a few pages back. its just not heinz brand. Good to know, thanks.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Couldn't get much done today, but I did play around.



Since the PO used spray foam, I went around with little tent steaks and cleaned out the end of the ribs as best as I could to get this stuff out so it won't hold moisture under the new decking.




The transom Z brace support will come out to allow better cleaning of the transom since I will be learning riveting this project.

And the Clecos came in today so I played with those a little. No 5 hour came in with those. Iboats should sell these so I can get more surprises.




These side transom braces will aslo come out to alow better clean up.







Clecos in place for fun.

Has anyone moved the drain to dead center hull to have better drainage? I know it would be behind the knee brace.

 

[dozerII]

Funny thing about Clecos, when you first get them anything with a 3/16 hole has to get one:facepalm:

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Funny thing about Clecos, when you first get them anything with a 3/16 hole has to get one:facepalm:

I couldnt resist. Its kinda fun to play with. I didnt try and use all 20 atleast. :lol:

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Got a little more done with some help.

Transom Z brace supprt before.


After. 3M disc used to clean it up.


Brace off the transom.


Cleaned up


Little helper with her Christmas tools.


She has her own methods.



Side braces are off also, Didnt get to clean these yet.




Should a good primer coat on these brace areas prevent this type of crud, or should I paint it with something also?

Leaving it bare could also work. Opinions welcome while they are off.

 

[Watermann]

Awesome you got the little one "helping" :thumb:

What a mess behind those Z brackets, my Chief's looked the same. Clean it real well, prime and paint would be my suggestion.

Side brackets need the same. Speaking of those side brackets... yeah I really don't like the way the holes are all messed up on them. Makes me wonder about how well they would reattach long term. You know you could replace them with just angle

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Speaking of those side brackets... yeah I really don't like the way the holes are all messed up on them. Makes me wonder about how well they would reattach long term. You know you could replace them with just angle

Im gonna get them side ones cleaned up and see about them holes. I was wondering what I might might do about them. I didnt think about replacing them with angle though. Thats an idea ill have to toy around with.

 

[classiccat]

Great progress!

Looks like someone already replaced the transom from looking at those side-brackets; 2 holes in each location.

Cute kid! She has a saw in that kit....for choppin' up glassers? :lol:

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Looks like someone already replaced the transom from looking at those side-brackets; 2 holes in each location.

Cute kid! She has a saw in that kit....for choppin' up glassers? :lol:

The transom was replaced at one point, once it was done it appeared to have rotted out without ever having another motor on it though. There were no marks in the wood or paint where one would have been mounted. Strange.

And after reading through the reglassing procedures and stuff on other threads here, I dont think I will ever have a glasser. Unless its a brand new ready to go one for the ocean.

If one appears ill get her a bigger saw too!

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Nothing new really got done here latley, I cleaned up those side brackets a bit but stopped cause its getting late and I am a nice neighbor. I do have two plates of 5052 aluminum the same thickness of the transom to pick up in Fl next trip to the parents house. Measure about 69"X18"ish. Originally got one for the outside transom skin, but had a second made for ? from an old friends metal shop that gave me a deal.

My question is, as sacrilegious as it may be, If I dont plan on putting the splash back in which is in good shape, theoretically, I could also cut that up for patches and what not right? Otherwise, some one could give me other options for it.

 

[dozerII]

Nothing new really got done here latley, I cleaned up those side brackets a bit but stopped cause its getting late and I am a nice neighbor. I do have two plates of 5052 aluminum the same thickness of the transom to pick up in Fl next trip to the parents house. Measure about 69"X18"ish. Originally got one for the outside transom skin, but had a second made for ? from an old friends metal shop that gave me a deal.

My question is, as sacrilegious as it may be, If I dont plan on putting the splash back in which is in good shape, theoretically, I could also cut that up for patches and what not right? Otherwise, some one could give me other options for it.

The splash well is pretty important to the strength and integrity of the transom, I would think long and hard about leaving it out.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

The splash well is pretty important to the strength and integrity of the transom, I would think long and hard about leaving it out.

Dozer, if i leave it out i will resupport that stern in a different way. Added knee braces and a bench type seant from prt to strbrd.

 

[classiccat]

+ 1 on keeping the splashwell.

It's a significant structural component; even shortening it diminishes the structural integrity (it often cracks when the knee-brace cracks), it's also a safety feature that helps avoid swamping your stern.