77' 16ft Starcraftt ss

[g0nef1sshn]

nice work. A little late for this, but I used to work in a heavy equipment manufacturing shop and we got this stuff called Aircraft paint stripper. I think I even remember reading that Dozer used it also on one of his boats. Anyways, that stuff turns any paint into soup. we would strip super thick industrial paint and it would just wipe away. Pretty serious stuff though. I've never found the same type we used, but there are a few 'aircraft paint strip's out there, Rust-Oleum and Klean-strip are ones I found online.
Again, too little too late I'm sure.
Keep it up.

Ive used kleen strip and that has worked the best. Ive also used it from a spray can which I wouldnt recommend only because it seems to clog up real easy. 1 can out of 4 sprayed good. When it did come out it worked great though. I like the critrus stip spray because it doesnt clog up and I can spray it at night, and scrape the paint off in the morning. It only seems to work good on the top coat though and doesnt do too well on the primer like the kleen strip does. The Napa spray stripper did pretty well also. Im gonna stick with the Kleen strip out of the jugs. I have one more can of citrus to use on my last side to strip. Im 98% done with the side ive started. Might get it finished today and start the other side hopefully.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

One side down, started the other. My little one woke from nap so I hit it with the citrus until I can get back out to it.

 

[Watermann]

Your making it look like so much fun that I can hardly wait until I get to do that chore again!

I have had the best luck using the orange label Kleanstrip and for that tough lingering haze of paint a 3M scrub pad erases it right off.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Your making it look like so much fun that I can hardly wait until I get to do that chore again!

I have had the best luck using the orange label Kleanstrip and for that tough lingering haze of paint a 3M scrub pad erases it right off.

Thats exactly what I am doing. Once I get most of the primer scraped off, that 3M pad makes quick work of whats left. The only area I have left to do really is behind the spare tire. I have to remove that mount next chance I get. I work nights this whole weekend but ill be off the following Fri-Sun. I really want to have it painted that weekend.

Im home now with my sick lil one and I work tonight, but when she goes down for a nap Im going to try and knock it out. Working 7:30 to 7:30 is a killer though, so ill pretty much be sleeping the next two days when I am off.I might have this thing ready to go by this Thurs. and just do touch up stuff until I have those three days to paint.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Finished this side up during the lil one's nap. Luckily it was a longer one.





This front spot is the only large area left. I dont want to do this until it is back off the trailer.





I guess Ill look into fixing these areas with JB weld while I am at work tonight.




That weekend I planned on doing the painting I forgot we have friends comming in to visit. So the painting will be put off. That just gives me time to really hit every rivet and fix any leaks I may find when I test that out.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Next chance I get Its time to pressure wash the inside and check for leaks. Man was this flip some undertaking by myself.





Out of curiosity guys, whats the argument over painting the hull VS leaving the hull bare aluminum?

 

[Watermann]

I worked night shifts for 20+ years so I know the feeling of working, sleeping and being too tired to do much else.

So those rivets where the corrosion is, are those holding on the knee brace? In any case I would replace them and put a backer plate on the outside so the new rivets have something good and solid to hang onto rather than just JB as filler which you can't rivet against.

Personally I like painted hulls, it gives a layer of protection, is easy to wash and keep clean. If the paint is waxed yearly it stays looking nice with a good shine. Bare AL will always want to go back to being gray and dull so it's going to be a constant battle to keep it clean and shiney. It does depend on where your at too, here we have numerous lakes with a high alkaline content and it turns AL dark real quick from the water line down.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

That spot with those three rivets in the pic looks like its from an old fish finder location, not the knee brace. The pic above that one you can see the 6 holes from the knee brace bolts. That area has pitting also.


I will probably paint the hull. Its just the thought of flipping it again. If I could leave it all outside for awhile I wouldnt mind at all. The HOA keeps me on my P's and Q's.

 

[Watermann]

Yeah I had the same type of pitting in trim tab areas and transducer spot so I did this. Filled the pitting with JB, sanded smooth and applied patches that were a bit over sized, back buttered the patches with 5200 leaving no room for any air pockets between the surfaces and solid riveted the patches on. Obviously you don't need all the patches I had to but there's an idea for you. You can't attach anything reliably to JB patched areas, it's more of a filler.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

My gluvit shipped today. And I have to return the pressure washer I borrowed this Friday so it looks like I have some work to get done. For the gluvit, I have to clean that inside out real good and sand the seams and rivets im going to coat? Or just make sure that the area is clean?


Also, at the end of all my ribs from previous decking I have 2 to 4 holes in them. Whats the ticket to fixing this so I know my deck will have a good surface to screw in? Im pretty sure im going with SS screws for the floor.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Yeah I had the same type of pitting in trim tab areas and transducer spot so I did this. Filled the pitting with JB, sanded smooth and applied patches that were a bit over sized, back buttered the patches with 5200 leaving no room for any air pockets between the surfaces and solid riveted the patches on. Obviously you don't need all the patches I had to but there's an idea for you. You can't attach anything reliably to JB patched areas, it's more of a filler.

Is there an online source to order aluminum that would work for patching like that? what Size/thickness did you use?

 

[g0nef1sshn]

I read too much working in front of a computer.

Q: Do I only need to use self etching primer, then paint? OR, S E primer, then epoxy primer, then paint?


Q2: Gluvit related. I just wash the areas real good where I apply it? OR, do I also need to sand and wash with acetone?

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Ok fella's, Bad news. Pressure washed the in inside when I got off work this morning and did the good ole leak test. I have one rivet in the back hull leaking, but three pitted holes leaking in the rear hull also. 2 of which i pointed out early on in the restore. One I didnt even know was a hole. I knew I wanted to fix the two, but didnt think they would be leakers. Then there are a few spots in the bow also seeping through the brown caulk/sealer I think is from the manufacture I think. Im not too concerned with the bow area, but is JB weld still the way to go with the leaky pitting holes?

Ill have pics coming dont worry.

Also, Moderator's, is there a way you can move this to the starcraft section as a whole thread?

Time to sleep.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Here are 3 of the leaks. The 4th is in the shot, just not dripping yet. These started pretty much right away. JB weld and gluvit on the inside Im hoping will take care of these.



All cleaned up on the inside. The inside transom is pretty pitted with that white corrosion goin on. Im guessing at one point this boat was used in salt water or had pressure treated transom wood.



Some of the drips that started right away. It was a bummer. Puts my plans off track as far as timeline but its another learning curve for repairs that keeps this fun. You can see the bunks bowing in this shot too. Those are on the list to replace. I dont think they will be getting carpeted again.



I filled it up with enough water to check about half the boat at a time. I cranked the bow up and marked the sides where the water high enough to check the chine? line. then lowered the bow and made sure the water level was still high enough to cover and test the rest.




Tomorrow might be some JB weld work and working on cleaning up the inside of this transom.

 

[jbcurt00]

Also, Moderator's, is there a way you can move this to the starcraft section as a whole thread?

Yep, no problem, done

 

[Watermann]

Welcome to the SC forum side of things!

I got lucky and found a huge supply of free .080 5250 AL in the form of surplus old road signs.

That reddish brown smeg is factory sealant, I had it in my Chief too. The smeg seemed to be in good shape and not peeling so I did gluvit over it. Speaking of gluvit, all I did was wire wheel off the rivets, seems, washed it down and applied the gluvit. Just be sure when you're prepping the stern area make sure there's no oil or grease remaining or it won't stick.

Check out Classic cats SS thread, he was faced with some problems similar to yours, maybe worse. I think I gave my advice about filling holes and pitting on the bottom. I'm for filling and then patching over them on the bottom if the pitting has weakened the bottom AL. One simple reason, if you strike something it could cause the area to spring a big leak and then it's a tear down to repair it with a patch the second time.

I know to some all this can sound a bit daunting but it's just a one step at a time progression. Once all this grunt work is done and behind you you'll be on to the rebuild and not looking back knowing it;s done right.

 

[hayko1971]

following right along as I'm about to undertake this process too!

 

[dozerII]

I agree with H20, think about making an aluminum patch for the bottom holes, fastened with rivets and 5200.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Thanks for the move over here.

That link to Classic Catts reno boosted my morale big time, thanks for that link watermann.

I do have an old "$250 Fine" aluminum sign that is about 1'x8". Its thickness is the same as the transom. that might be just enough of a sign for now that I need.

Might be crazy question, but what about old license plates for patching?

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Ive had this sign for probably 15 years. Now it may have a use.