77' 16ft Starcraftt ss

[jbcurt00]

Several have reduced the size of the splashwell, esp in the models w/ the GIANT wells, to get a bit more deck space.

IIRC, a few have also reduced the size of the apron across the front of the splashwell, it's a fairly wide flange across the top, so unless you need that flat space for riggings or rod storage, you can trim it back too.

Changing or removing the splashwell also leaves the tin short below the gunwale, which ties to the front of the splashwell.

Swamping and structure are 2 fairly good reasons to leave a well of some type, just be sure you can tilt the motor fully if you trim the well down.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Points taken guys, Ill have to rethink this one a bit. It would be smart to go from your experiences.

They built it that way for a reason eh?

 

[g0nef1sshn]

So, the data plates are nowhere to be found on my boat. I have all the info from the title though. What ways have you gone about re attaching the HIN numbers to your hulls? Just looking for ideas. I have been working on all my registration stuff today, Its more work than a vehicle. (Georgia)



Our friends visiting brought up a gift for me this weekend also. Took me to his truck and he shows me a nice boat seat and two stainless steal rod holders he got out of his neighbors garbage for my boat.

 

[jbcurt00]

IF there isnt a HIN that conforms to current 12digit HIN standards, WV issues me a new HIN that starts w WV then 10 numbers. It comes on a small metal HIN plate that you can rivet to the boat. They actually give me 2, one is required to be permanently mounted on the starboard top corner of the transom, where the HIN is suppossed to be.

If you are talking about the USCG capacity plate, you can order one of those online. I like GarzonStudios, they've done nice work for me in the past. It is a high quality vinyl sticker that looks like an original foil plate.

You can also find an engraving place, but one off plates can be expensive if you have to pay for creating the layout/setup. An engraver should also be able to make a HIN tag if your paperwork lists a HIN.

As a 1977, your boat should have a HIN somewhere, and it should match the paperwork.

I had a metal plate made for my 1990 Sylvan, turned out great and cost about as much as a sticker from Garzon.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Thanks for the help JB,

My Title has 14 characters as follows,

STRBXXXX0876FX ( X is in place of actual numbers )


Im thinking then that the FX is an add on from FL and the first 12 characters is the actual hin? Making it a 76' not a 77'? Even though the title lists it as a 77"

 

[jbcurt00]

Probably correct, added by Fl.

Maybe a 1976 sold in 1977? Or 1st registered in 77?

Truthfully, it may have had a 1977 outboard on it, and that # was easy for someone to cross reference and figure out what year it was and they assigned that year to the boat.

Happened w my FireFlite.

 

[64osby]

On one of my old Tinny's I made an aluminum HIN Plate, engraved the state assigned number with a Dremel.

It was riveted it to the hull. Probably a B- on looks but it worked.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

On one of my old Tinny's I made an aluminum HIN Plate, engraved the state assigned number with a Dremel.

It was riveted it to the hull. Probably a B- on looks but it worked.

Im thinking of something like this too. If I cut the aluminum and see if a trophy shop can engrave it deep enough to last.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Back to the splash well topic. With out having to really worry about big water use and following seas, I think a set up like this would cover the structural aspect the well holds. I would leave the gas in the back, any batteries may be more forward somewhere.

 

[Watermann]

Yeah that would work I think.

Only issue I see is closing up that compartment with one of those portable tanks inside that vent out the cap and tend to leak some gas along with a ready made ignition source at hand.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Finally got some time to get some more work done.

Got the rest of the paint of the bow.


This was the gift my friend brought up from Fl out of his neighbors garbage.




Cleaned up the inside of the transom some more.




Primer practice. I did a couple light coats on each application.




And we have paint. This was from a spray can. Its the same color the hull should turn out to be. I left the inside of the transom support pirmered with a pretty solid coat to hopefully help prevent corrosion.




I found some history behind this throttle panel.



Sort of felt like an archeologist at this point.



And I played with pop rivets. Ill probably break down and buy a compressor soon and a hammer drill for the solid riveting.




It feels like its been forever since I got anything done to this thing. Im hoping to get some more done this monday.

 

[dozerII]

Looking good, you want to make sure and use solid rivets for all the real structural parts and pieces, they hold better without becoming loose from vibration.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Looking good, you want to make sure and use solid rivets for all the real structural parts and pieces, they hold better without becoming loose from vibration.

It will be solid rivets on the structural side of things. I almost pulled the trigger to spend a lot of money last week at harbor freight, but they didnt have the mushroom head for the air hammer that I needed to rivet.

So I have a rivet set ordered and should be in today. Now I am back looking into compressors. The Admiral gave me a limit on spending, which she will forget she said once items are purchased, and I think I can stay in that limit on a 21 gallon compressor + all needed accessories.

My question is for those who have gone before me, Will a 21 gallon compressor be sufficient for solid riveting? what size compressors have you used to get this done?

 

[64osby]

It is not the gallons that count, it is the CFM. The tools you use will have a spec for the required Cubic Feet per Minute. The compressor needs to supply that as a minimum. Also consider DA sanders and maybe a media blaster for future tools and CFM requirements.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Good points 64, I didnt know about stuff so looked into it. Looks like the combo's I am looking to get should work.

5.8 CFM @ 40 PSI, 4.7 CFM @ 90 PSI for the 21 gallon compressor.

4cfm @ 90 for the hammer.

Maybe Monday Ill have some new toys.

 

[dozerII]

Riveting uses very little air as the aluminum rivets go real fast just a quick, light pull on the trigger. It is painting and air sanders that use up a lot of air.

 

[Watermann]

Looking good, that's the way to finish you just keep knocking it out and moving forward.

Riveting takes little to barely any air, painting with a HVLP gun now that will have the motor running the whole time. I have a 20 gal Industrial air double cylinder oil motor. Just don't get a noisy POS oil less type is my advice on compressors.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

I was going to get oilless but after reading about them, I will go with an oiled one, I also read to buy better oil than what it comes with and to follow the break in routine 2 or three times for best results before use.

My father-in-law brought up a question Ive been thinking about but was going to wait until paint time.

The brown sealer used between the bow plate and hull is roughed up pretty good from my stripping process. Does primer usually adhere good to it being this old or can i cut it back a bit and use 5200 or another sealer over the top of it just to ensure good paint ahesion when that time comes?

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Presents!! be nice to the admirals!!

 

[dozerII]

Gotta love new tools and understanding Admirals, and not necessarily in that order.