77' 16ft Starcraftt ss

[Furrylittleotter]

NIce! CHeck out this site for a low cfm spray gun. their off brands are highly rated and a bargain. http://www.spraygunworld.com/Information2/LOWCFM/lowcfm.html

Neil

 

[hayko1971]

Congrats on the new tools! Just yesterday I installed some solid rivets in my boat. I'd never done it before, but it was very easy. I have an air hammer/chisel that came in my air tool set and I used that. I cut off the chisel end of one of the chisels that I'll likely never use and ground a concave surface in it to conform to the head of the rivet. I put tape on it as I read somewhere that was a good idea. I turned the PSI of my compressor down to 30 PSI and practiced 2x on some scrap. I used the admiral and a chrome hitch for the buck. I think they came out good. They seem solid anyways.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Dozer, I dont think understanding them will ever be at the front of the order of life, but as long as we try it goes a long way.

Otter, your gonna get me in trouble! Im already thinking spraying now. But that means more buttering up to someone, possibly costing diamonds, and sold souls at the moment. Gotta take this one slow but thanks for the info! Still waiting for the gas powered boatissery video also. :laugh:


Hayko, I saw your thread on how you made the punch. Good job on that! I thought about doing the same, just dont have the right tools, believe it or not, that ordering the set was a much more expedient process.

I ran the pre compressor checks today. fixed a few small leaks in my connections and what not. But Im gonna get some more (better) oil before using fully. And probably run through 2 more cycles before fully using.

 

[hayko1971]

Hayko, I saw your thread on how you made the punch. Good job on that! I thought about doing the same, just dont have the right tools, believe it or not, that ordering the set was a much more expedient process.

Thanks, the only reason I made one up was "making do". I already had the air chisel and tips that I'd never use. I know an air chisel is not recommended for the job but it worked fine for me.

 

[Furrylittleotter]

. I know an air chisel is not recommended for the job but it worked fine for me.

99% of what I do is "not recommended", and loads more fun!

 

[astor]

I know an air chisel is not recommended for the job but it worked fine for me.

I've used an air riveting hammer, you know the $250 ones!, and I used my $14 harbor freight air chisel and a $14 modified brazier rivet set I bought off ebay (it was made in Warren, MI) and it worked just as well. Although I must admit, the expensive rivet gun felt much better in my hand and the teasing trigger was really nice too. If I had to do thousands and thousands of rivets I would certainly invest in the right tool, but I get equally good results with my "make do" tools for the couple of dozen rivets I had to do.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Thinking of deck plans messin around. This might actually work. Angle along the ribs with little extra down the rib. I got the transom primed today. Cleco'd in the knee and transom brace.

I attempted practice solid rivets today also. First two were fails. Got a lil better by the 3rd. Still need some more preactice before goin at it.

 

[hayko1971]

I like your angle idea, it would give you a lot to anchor the deck to.
When I did the solid rivets, I pressed the gun hard against the rivet, pressing it firmly against the material.
That was my "snug side". My lovely assistant held the bucking surface -firmly- against the back side. If we were having a "pressure contest" I with the gun would win. Pull the trigger and the rivet will bounce/vibrate against the buck and deform the "tail?". I went slow to ensure even deformation, and if it looked good, give er a good "rattle" to squish em down nice.
I hope this makes sense and is a little helpful for ya.

 

[Watermann]

I used a cheap air hammer to driver scores of solids and it worked great for me. My rivet set tended to leave some crescent shaped dent in the heads though which I didn't really care for but most the rivets in my Chief had the same crescent dent from the factory.

I'm looking at the angle along the ribs and I'm not really seeing the advantage of it. The only downside I can think of is that you would be using twice as many rivets to attach the decking but still only have the one rivet in the end of each rib. Just more expense in materials for no real gain in strength. I'm not sure if your angle is towards hull stiffening but if you are thinking that then there are some other options open for your year of SC that doesn't have the stiffeners factory installed.

 

[hayko1971]

what if you went across with the angle, I've seen that done, make like joists for the floor across the boat. Grind the corners and rivet to the ribs...if I recall, someone on this forum did that to support a dead sexy cedar deck.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

W Mann- The angle along the ribs would be as a fresh base for the wood to lay in. All the rib ends have 3-6 holes in them already from previous do overs and I can see having problems there. It would be more money that I wasnt planning though.

I think my biggest reasons for messin up the rivet attempts was not having a proper bucking bar. Ill poke around and find something better to use. Also I probably didnt have thick enough material to work with the rivet right. Ill try more this weekend.

Im switching back to night shifts tonight, so feel free to work all night on your projects and give me something to look at.

 

[classiccat]

W Mann- The angle along the ribs would be as a fresh base for the wood to lay in. All the rib ends have 3-6 holes in them already from previous do overs and I can see having problems there. It would be more money that I wasnt planning though.

I think my biggest reasons for messin up the rivet attempts was not having a proper bucking bar. Ill poke around and find something better to use. Also I probably didnt have thick enough material to work with the rivet right. Ill try more this weekend.

Im switching back to night shifts tonight, so feel free to work all night on your projects and give me something to look at.

Use as short of a rivet as possible...too-long and they have the tendency to roll-over on you. I recall the starting bucktail length should be around 1.5 rivet diameter long (for example, a 3/16" rivet should protrude 9/32").

Also, avoid putting too much pressure on the bucking bar; you're only stabilizing it so that it stays on the rivet...let the air-hammer do the work.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Cleaned up and primered the transom yesterday.






I attached all this with cleco's, then I remembered I wanted to prime it first, So here's the second go around.

While reading through Otters 5200 recent posts, If I read it correctly, I could 5200 between the braces and hull/transom, and use the cleco's and pop rivets to hold it there tight, then replace them with solid rivets when the time is right? Does that sound right?





this was my 3rd go around. I did get better, By Sunday ill have it down right! Thanks for your advice guys!


I also got my Tag for the trailer today, So its tagged and registered! All I need is a paddle and I can take her out now.

 

[Decker83]

The transom looks great.. All your hard work is paying off.. Knee brace looks great..
I have read that you can use the 3m 5200.. Use the fast cure..

 

[hayko1971]

The braces look great! I think I'm a little lost with using pop rivets before bucking the solids. Is there a reason to let the 5200 set before bucking the solids? Will you butter the back of the z brace with 5200 and then rivet? I guess using pop rivets will keep the 5200 off your clecos, that makes sense to me.
Nice work!

 

[jbcurt00]

My specific reason for the mixed use of rivets in a different topic was based on that owner working solo, needing to align a long part along the keel of his boat and install LOTS of rivets in it.

IMO alignment and getting it installed w/out moving it around at all was important.

Turns out that owner isnt always working solo.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

The transom looks great.. All your hard work is paying off.. Knee brace looks great..
I have read that you can use the 3m 5200.. Use the fast cure..

Thanks decker, its good to see new colors!

The braces look great! I think I'm a little lost with using pop rivets before bucking the solids. Is there a reason to let the 5200 set before bucking the solids? Will you butter the back of the z brace with 5200 and then rivet? I guess using pop rivets will keep the 5200 off your clecos, that makes sense to me.
Nice work!

hayko, Id use the pop rivets to help hold it tight while the 5200 sets incase I don't get through all the solid rivets in one shot. I will use the 5200 on the back z brace and the knee brace. Im not sure there is an exact need for it though. There wasnt any there when I removed them. Just gonna do it to help keep out moisture from getting between the spaces and corroding.



That brace looked the same as the pic above. Trying to prevent that.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

My specific reason for the mixed use of rivets in a different topic was based on that owner working solo, needing to align a long part along the keel of his boat and install LOTS of rivets in it.

IMO alignment and getting it installed w/out moving it around at all was important.

Turns out that owner isnt always working solo.

I liked your idea JB. Im trying to have a friend come over this weekend to help out, But I moslty work alone also. So it is a good idea that I can apply also. Thanks!

 

[jbcurt00]

Use bolts and nuts to pull the lower rail for the transom to where you want it.

You can easily reach both sides working over the top edge of the transom skin.

You've got a few dozen rivets to install. Otter is going to have 2-3times as many, easily the same number on each side of his as you do in total.

Plus he's working on a seam between 2overlapping layers on the hull bottom.

But whatever works to help you get it out back together.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Punishing work for me, but this transom Z brace is on there solid! That 5200 is some seriously messy gunk too. I usually never wear gloves for things. But I will from now with this stuff.