77' 16ft Starcraftt ss

hayko1971

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Flying through it buddy! For the shifter and throttle controls, just move the lever, the ends should move. You can check for continuity at the key switch (figure out which conductors connect to the starter) to make sure it's making contact when you turn it. That's about all I can think of without hooking anything up.
 

hayko1971

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Are you going to camo your boat? Or just leave it tan with the blacked out hardware?
 

Watermann

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Glad to see you have some good weather so you can get some work knocked out on the SS.

The helm is a rack and pinion type. The controls I don't know much about them but like hayko says you can run the throttle and see if the cables move. The ignition can be tested with a simple voltage/ohm tester to see if there's a connection when the key is turned to start.
 

g0nef1sshn

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Thanks for the tips guys, Ill look into them.

Hayko it will be camo eventually. Just have to think long and hard how I want to do it. I dont want the usual stencil pattern most do these days. Im thinking more of a free hand thing.

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This is the type of stuff I mostly hunt in. Itll be a tricky paint scheme and I am no professional by any means. Ive watched a few videos trying to see how paint the shadowing effect.
 

Decker83

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I have seen a few people do want you want to do.. They get real creative and turn out some nice looking camo..
Have a productive weekend..
 

g0nef1sshn

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still a little overspray, but I cleaned up the back end and painted the rest of top gunwal. Painted some of the port side trim to see how it looks and I think I like it.



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g0nef1sshn

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So new idea comming to mind. When the boat was in the sun the other day, I could have cooked lunch on the top gunwal it was so hot. So now I am thinking I am going to cover it in wood.

Has this been done yet? Not sure what wood, painted or stained yet.
 

hayko1971

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I've seen the bow tops done before, but not gunwales... I think it could look nice topped with cedar plank or something....might get banged up though. A lighter color could help keep the temps down too.
 

Watermann

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Mid-day sun is going to heat any surface up while sitting static with no air movement and is especially brutal on the water with no shade.
 

g0nef1sshn

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banged up isn't an issue, the heat is for the girls and wife. Plus I think I can make it look cool and screw stuff in there without adding more holes to the aluminum.
 

g0nef1sshn

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Wmann, wood of a nuetral color wouldnt be bad, i touched my fence today and there was no heat at all at high noon.
 

g0nef1sshn

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Im thinking plastic for braces under wood every 6 inches that will last so when replacing the wood i have the base lasting forever. Like c utting board strips or decking.
 

g0nef1sshn

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Another question for those who have gone before. Im dropping the boat off for the transom cap to be made on wedensday. Should I see what they can do for an outer transom brace/aluminum piece? Outer welded skin or something of those lines? \

Anyone one with pics of added outer transom caps or supports between motor and transom skin please post a pic of what you did.
 

hayko1971

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Im thinking plastic for braces under wood every 6 inches that will last so when replacing the wood i have the base lasting forever. Like c utting board strips or decking.

What about instead of wood, a composite decking material?
 

hayko1971

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Im thinking about it, just not familiar with that market too much. Plus wood can be found cheap. sealed and last years also. But its an idea.

True story. If I were to do it, I would use wood. I toyed with the idea of putting a cedar floor in my boat, and may well do so on another project someday. Just throwing out ideas.
 

g0nef1sshn

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Got some work done today before dropping her off tomorrow for the transom cap. 6 more total bolts through the transom. 4 holes were already there (4 white smeared bolts below aluminum rectangles). Then I drilled a hole between each of the 4 old drains for the splashwell (2 new holes to cover 4). 5200'd those pates on and bolted center covered them pretty nicely. There were 5 more 1/4 inch holes in the transom skin so I filled those with a little JB weld. It will get all cleaned up once I have it back.


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Added plates both sides because those two below them started sinking into the wood and I didnt like that feeling. I aslo put 1 inch SS lag screws in the z brace. I didnt 5200 on the inside, but I did bead the top with it to help keep water out. I know I make a mess of that stuff.

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hayko1971

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That 3M goo sure is sticky, I found out real quick gloves are my friend when working with that stuff. Question though, If you covered the 4 drain holes, are you going to make new ones for your splashwell to drain?
 
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