77' 16ft Starcraftt ss

[g0nef1sshn]

You should rethink not replacing the spashwell for safety reasons and structural integrity of the boat. The holes off to the outside of the stern eye holes are for bolts that fasten the transom to the side brackets. It looks like there are 4 drain holes for the splashwell?

There are 4 there, But I only pulled two through tubes out. I think the other two holes were hidden behind some transom board that came off the outside of the transom,

I know the splash has its purpose. Getting closer to that time to start refitting it in and seeing how it goes with a tiller motor. Might not be right. Ill have to resupport the back end another way.

 

[hayko1971]

What size of tiller are you planning on going with? There are a few threads around here where guys have modified he splashwells to make them smaller. If I recall they beefed up and supported that area in different ways.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

What size of tiller are you planning on going with? There are a few threads around here where guys have modified he splashwells to make them smaller. If I recall they beefed up and supported that area in different ways.

praying for a 50-60 hp. There was a thread I saw where someone did shrink the size of their splashwell. Once the floor is goin in those plans will start getting drawn up.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Here we go, The transom is bolted up and got the eyes in with some extra plates for added strength. Hayko was right and the random extra little holes were from the back plate that was on it. Two of the four larger holes were covered by the same board and two were splashwell drains. I have to figure something out back there now.

I did forget to do one small thing before getting the first two bolts in for those going after me: CENTER YOUR WOOD BEFORE DRILLING. LoL. Its not really a huge difference, But once the caps cover the corners I am the only one that will really know. I remebered thinking dont forget that. whooops

 

[hayko1971]

Looks good! What are you thinking about the extra holes? I also have 4 extra holes in the tin where the transom pad was bolted through. I was going to just build a new pad with puck board, but now I'm rethinking that and wonder if I should just patch the holes somehow and not put any more holes through my transom than necessary.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Looks good! What are you thinking about the extra holes? I also have 4 extra holes in the tin where the transom pad was bolted through. I was going to just build a new pad with puck board, but now I'm rethinking that and wonder if I should just patch the holes somehow and not put any more holes through my transom than necessary.

What I have been thinking is making two of them my bilge ports ( run two bilges, one on float and one on a switch ). And the other two I am thinking of running a baitwell in and out pipe. Just me thinking though. Like you said Im not really wanting more holes either. But I may be bringing the boat to a metal fab shop I stopped at a while back to see about the transom cap and see what they can do about some other stuff. That might add a couple little holes.

 

[hayko1971]

i ended up jb welding large flange rivet heads to the bolt holes in my transom skin.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Went to the metal shop with the boat this morning. Going to bring it back there wednesday. Im thinking I will redo the bunks between now and then. Have to pick up carpet, staple gun, and staples. Im thinking going with a pnuematic gun since I have the compressor now too.

Think I need carpet glue or no glue and just staple the heck out of it?

 

[MNhunter1]

Went to the metal shop with the boat this morning. Going to bring it back there wednesday. Im thinking I will redo the bunks between now and then. Have to pick up carpet, staple gun, and staples. Im thinking going with a pnuematic gun since I have the compressor now too.

Think I need carpet glue or no glue and just staple the heck out of it?

I didn't use any glue on mine, just stainless staples and added some galvanized roofing nails for extra insurance. Don't completely wrap the bunks, leave the lower end open to allow the bunks to drain/dry. The glue may also help trap moisture, I don't know, but I don't think it's really needed on the bunks.

 

[hayko1971]

Went to the metal shop with the boat this morning. Going to bring it back there wednesday. Im thinking I will redo the bunks between now and then. Have to pick up carpet, staple gun, and staples. Im thinking going with a pnuematic gun since I have the compressor now too.

Think I need carpet glue or no glue and just staple the heck out of it?

100% completely get a pnumatic or electric stapler!! I did all the staples on my carpet with a regular staple gun and about half way through I really wished I had a powered one. I used 3m 77 spray adhesive to hold the carpet in place and secured with staples on my interior pieces. I imagine it would work on your bunks as well. it wasn't much of a struggle because the adhesive held everything nice and tight while I stapled the edges.

 

[MNhunter1]

In hindsight..I would have used the bunk carpet as justification for a pneumatic stapler. I ended up with a new Arrow T50 for the bunks...and justified the purchase of the pneumatic stapler for my flooring, so I guess I came out okay . Oh yeah, had about an 18" section of 1/4" round to replace along the baseboard in the kitchen recently as well...which required a new pneumatic brad nailer too :thumb: I had to talk myself out of the new pancake compressor since my 4 gallon was sufficient enough for the job...but it was a mental struggle.

Sometimes I wonder if I just work on these boats and other projects to justify the purchase of new tools...

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Passed on the big purchase and went with the same one you did hunter. Maybe next project. got the carpet too. Something for me to do tonight and tomorrow.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Before.... 12 ft




and after..... 10 ft of beauty

Slapped on some spar since its laying around. Lets see how long these buggers last. I lapped the spar on top and sides. It soaked in that stuff. these are cedar 2x4's. Maybe they will last years, maybe not. Carpeted only the top and sides also. I have the wood grain looking like a rainbow (best description i can think of). I read somewhere the moisture will drain out instead of pool in the wood (picture upside down rainbow?)?

 

[Decker83]

Bunks look good..

 

[Watermann]

Looking like your getting into that wonderful trailer work stage we all look forward to.

Just for ideas on how I did my 2x6 quad set of bunks on the Chief trailer. I marked the holes, drilled them out for the bunk mounting bolts, counter sunk for bolt heads, put on the spar, added PL premium to the holes, inserted the SS bolts and cinched them down with washers and nuts. Then I carpeted the bunks and once the PL cured I pulled the nuts/washers off and mounted them on the trailer.

 

[hayko1971]

Those ought to last a good long time

 

[g0nef1sshn]

These are a little out of order but you can see that the middle support has a 3/4 inch gap from the original boat it was designed for. I took some semi sealed pieces from the transom, cut them to fit, and dipped them in the spar to soak it up.




I also skipped goin to the boat ramp to do this for fear of lack of tools once started and power. So this worked quite well. these Homemade dollies from the paint stripping effort have came in handy a lot during the last few months.



These were used to fill the 3/4 inch gap.





Anyone have any knowledge on the value/info on these controls. Brought them home from Fl. They came with the boat. Steering works and moves. I think they say teleflex on it. And the throttle box appears to have all cables, plugs and key. I should be going tiller so I don't think Ill need them.

Is there a way to test if the key works and shifter without being on a motor?

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Forgot to show the fill piece in place.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Had a lil fun today. I scrubbed the top gunwals with the 3m pad. Then busted out the aluminum primer (not SE'ing) and sprayed the rear port half with it. To my surprise it was white. But ok. Then im thinking, well Ill leave the rear half primed and try no primer on the front half. Let it dry and see what happens. I got bored after the bunks and this is a hunting boat so messy ugly paint will eventually be the end coat. As long as it sticks and doesnt peel I am good. (Sorry to those who love them to be prestine) I also sprayed around the bolts and two eyes in the transom. My top gunwals for now will be brown since i have that paint. I sprayed black over the bolts and eyes on the transom. Ill repaint the transom tan but leave the eyes and the plates they are on black. It looks messy but should clean up nice and hopefully have a good stick to it.

Bow front half no primer




Rear has primer than brown.



Messed with the transom. white primer over bolts and eyes, then Hunters black camo spray paint. Ill leave the eyes and the plates black when I go over with tan again.




The eye and plate.



This may have been a waste of time, But Im good with that and you cant learn if you dont try right?

 

[g0nef1sshn]

This is what the port side looked like before my expreiment.