77' 16ft Starcraftt ss

g0nef1sshn

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Well, I am home with a sick little kid today so Ill be getting out to sand during naps. Already got one half and the transom done. The primers I used said sand with 400 grit paper. I had 220 and 600 on hand. So I made a choice to go with 220 first and that was the wrong answer. It just dug too deep and scalp the rivets. So once I swiched to the 600 it was smooth sailing. 20150514_094015_resized.jpg

Still need to wash of the dust but it appears I got a good stick with the primer. Below is after sanding with the 600 grit. Its hard to see the difference in the picturess of before and after.

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dozerII

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Looking good, I use Scotch Brite purple pads to sand between coats and it seems to work very well, doesn't plug up like sand paper and is not real expensive.
 

g0nef1sshn

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The following is the information from the website on the paint I am using. I was looking it up to see if I can/should use a hardner? I will be rolling it so I need some mineral spirits. It doesnt mention anything about hardners.

What do you guys think? Use with or without?

The general composition of our all purpose enamel permanent camo paints (gallons/quarts) are as follows: Lead Free - Oil Base Petroleum Solvent - 35-42% Dryers - 0-2% Resin - 15-25% Pigment - 30-45% Stir/shake paint can vigorously to mix pigment that has settled to bottom and throughout the painting process. Regarding application, if using an airless sprayer, thinner is not required, though if brush or roller is used we recommend 20-25% thinner (mineral spirits). If metal surface, clean and prepare metal, use primer (zinc chromate) on bare metal. If fiberglass surface, primer is not required. If polycarbonate surface, we do NOT recommend using any Hunter?s Specialties camo paints. Recommend contacting manufacturer for painting recommendations. An option may be Krylon "Fusion" paint for plastic surfaces available at most hardware stores, though confirm with label and/or boat manufacturer. Apply 2 coats of paint, waiting one hour between coats. Look for a heavy tack. Note: Paint may require 48 hours to cure/dry depending on temperature and humidity.
 

g0nef1sshn

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Looking good, I use Scotch Brite purple pads to sand between coats and it seems to work very well, doesn't plug up like sand paper and is not real expensive.

the pluging up did happen a lot, I just kept cutting some more squares and grinded away. Once its all sanded, what do you all use to wipe/clean the primer coat before the first coat of paint?

Acetone? spirits? just water?
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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I'm not a sander type but when I do I just use tack cloths. Acetone will remove your primer like paint stripper and should only be used on bare AL to remove grease or oil. Water on primer is not good as it will soak into it's porous surface.
 

g0nef1sshn

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I ended up just wiping it with a cloth. I have the transom and one outer edge of the hull painted. I'm really liking the marsh grass color I went with. Once admirals done working a couple hours I'm hoping to get the rest of the first coat done. This paint takes 3-4 days to dry and 10 to cure from what I have read.
 

Watermann

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Glad you didn't find out the hard way about acetone. :lol:

I just got back in town last night and was catching up, figured you had gone ahead given the time that went by. Looking forward to seeing your handy work. :)
 

g0nef1sshn

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Thanks Wmann, still have some brush work to do on this side. Mom went out on a early girls night? so I probably wont get to the rest till tomorrow.
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This is one coat plus a recoat after about 30 mins.
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g0nef1sshn

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Got the other side done. I still need to hit some areas with a brush. But I am happy with how it has turned out. Ill do touch up tomorrow. Both girls should be at daycare and the admiral will be working. I like it when its just me and the dog!

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MNhunter1

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Lookin' good!! How's the roller working out? I'm using a similar paint in an olive drab color. It's a little thicker formula and recommended to be thinned as little as possible if spraying. I've got a 2.5mm tip HVLP gun on hand, but still go back and forth about rolling. I think I just need to pull the trigger, literally, and just give it a go with the gun.
 

g0nef1sshn

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Lookin' good!! How's the roller working out? I'm using a similar paint in an olive drab color. It's a little thicker formula and recommended to be thinned as little as possible if spraying. I've got a 2.5mm tip HVLP gun on hand, but still go back and forth about rolling. I think I just need to pull the trigger, literally, and just give it a go with the gun.


Roller worked great for my needs. I didnt need a new car quality but it did turn out nice so far. One recommendation if your going to use your spray gun, Take the time to sand the primer perfect if you want flawless. I can see why they say prep is the key. Its nothing really bad, but with the right light I can see a few areas I didnt sand too evenly. But the foam roller did work out. I though I would do the paint and tip method but I know this boat will get beat and scratched so I passed on that.

Shake and stir the paint good and take your time with the roller. Slow is good.

Oh yeah, My paint said to thin if rolling with mineral spirits, I passed on that advice and just rolled it based on other threads I read on the stuff. That the only thing Im hoping doesnt bite me in the end. But they said this stuff sticks to everything and cant get it back off so we will see.
 
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g0nef1sshn

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I ended up just wiping it with a cloth. I have the transom and one outer edge of the hull painted. I'm really liking the marsh grass color I went with. Once admirals done working a couple hours I'm hoping to get the rest of the first coat done. This paint takes 3-4 days to dry and 10 to cure from what I have read.


I think I lied on this part, while painting the other half I remembered a quick hosing after sanding. Just didnt want the bad info out there. I didnt soak it and it was out in the sun so it dried in a jiffy. Well see how it turns out.
 

MNhunter1

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Roller worked great for my needs. I didnt need a new car quality but it did turn out nice so far. One recommendation if your going to use your spray gun, Take the time to sand the primer perfect if you want flawless. I can see why they say prep is the key. Its nothing really bad, but with the right light I can see a few areas I didnt sand too evenly. But the foam roller did work out. I though I would do the paint and tip method but I know this boat will get beat and scratched so I passed on that.

Shake and stir the paint good and take your time with the roller. Slow is good.

Oh yeah, My paint said to thin if rolling with mineral spirits, I passed on that advice and just rolled it based on other threads I read on the stuff. That the only thing Im hoping doesnt bite me in the end. But they said this stuff sticks to everything and cant get it back off so we will see.

I'm using the Duralux Aluminum Boat Paint that goes straight on bare aluminum without a primer coat. They actually recommend rolling it on without thinning for the most durable finish, but it can be sprayed as well. It's a satin finish, but I was concerned about how the roller might handle the rivets, seams, nooks, and crannies. I've got the gear to spray, just never used a hvlp before, so there's some hesitation and the 2.5mm tip with the unthinned paint is still yet unproven.

I just finished rolling on 4 gallons of interior house paint and 2 gallons of deck stain that I had to get finished before the admiral would grant me some liberty with the boat project, so I'm anxious to try my hand with the sprayer, but stretched and dialed with the roller too šŸ˜ƒ
 

g0nef1sshn

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the rivets were no problem with the foam roller. The side keel/chine? was a little more work. I actually brushed most of that area then gently took the tip of the roller back over it.
 

g0nef1sshn

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If im not huffing paint stripper or gluvit, Its Spar sealer! Put a thin coat on each side and let it soak a bit then hit a hefty coat on it. Ill let that dry up a few hours. Made sure to hit all the edges too. I know I still have to cut out where the motor will go, but atleast the sealing will be done except where I cut. Went ahead and made a stool for some friends of our little one while I was out there. I made one for our girls and they liked it so itll be a little gift when we see them this weekend.
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g0nef1sshn

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I looked at the brochures, but they just say rated for up to 85hp. Is there also a weight rating for the back for motors? If im looking at maybe new 50-60hp it shouldnt be an issue should it? roughly 250# dry weight for a 60hp. Im not anywhere close to obtaining a motor just yet. Only thinking about it. The admiral (for time being) agrees for a new motor when ready and money is right.
 

MNhunter1

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I looked at the brochures, but they just say rated for up to 85hp. Is there also a weight rating for the back for motors? If im looking at maybe new 50-60hp it shouldnt be an issue should it? roughly 250# dry weight for a 60hp. Im not anywhere close to obtaining a motor just yet. Only thinking about it. The admiral (for time being) agrees for a new motor when ready and money is right.


You'll be just fine with anything 85hp or smaller, especially with a new transom, and exercising your liability risk with anything larger. A 3cyl 2 stroke Johnson or Evinrude seems to be the perfect balance of weight to performance for a 16' SS hull. I don't think the actual weight of the motor is as much of an issue as the stress placed on the transom from a larger horsepower/higher torque motor would be.
 

Decker83

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Apr 5, 2011
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Just catching up with ya.. Looks good..:encouragement:
Nice looking stool you made..
 

hayko1971

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If im not huffing paint stripper or gluvit, Its Spar sealer! Put a thin coat on each side and let it soak a bit then hit a hefty coat on it. Ill let that dry up a few hours. Made sure to hit all the edges too. I know I still have to cut out where the motor will go, but atleast the sealing will be done except where I cut. Went ahead and made a stool for some friends of our little one while I was out there. I made one for our girls and they liked it so itll be a little gift when we see them this weekend.





At least the spar doesn't smell bad, well to me it didn't anyways. Nice work on the table!
I really should read words before I look at pics though... I saw the table and wondered how it was going to go in your boat... Roast your duck over a shore fire and you have your dining room table all ready to go hahahahahah
 
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