77' 16ft Starcraftt ss

[hayko1971]

I only ask because my floor was resting directly on the ribs, with the cut edge butt up against/touching the rivets when it came out. It did not rest on the "shelf" ledge above the row of rivets, there would be a gap between the top of the ribs and the floor then I think. But if it's sucked down to the stringers/deck supports, it might be good, sorta create a low spot for any rain or splash water to run to the bilge.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

I only ask because my floor was resting directly on the ribs, with the cut edge butt up against/touching the rivets when it came out. It did not rest on the "shelf" ledge above the row of rivets, there would be a gap between the top of the ribs and the floor then I think. But if it's sucked down to the stringers/deck supports, it might be good, sorta create a low spot for any rain or splash water to run to the bilge.

I see what your saying, and I played with the level seeing how the deck would sit. But because of your point ill have to do it again taking into consideration of the wood deck thickness, I still dont think it will be too much of a difference though. Thanks for the thought.

One thing im thinking is to grind the aluminum ends flat so it doesnt rub into the wood as hard as it would as a straight angle against the wood.

 

[hayko1971]

Yeah, grinding or snipping should be easy if it causes any issue

 

[Decker83]

If it were mine I would put 1 more rivet in each one and cut them off flush with the end of the rib.. Having them up on the ridge will put a pressure point on the wood and my cause it to break the sealer you use and let water penetrate the wood.. Just my 2 cents..

 

[g0nef1sshn]

If it were mine I would put 1 more rivet in each one and cut them off flush with the end of the rib.. Having them up on the ridge will put a pressure point on the wood and my cause it to break the sealer you use and let water penetrate the wood.. Just my 2 cents..

Decker, I been thinking the same thing lately. However, I may add something clever under the wood at each spot, or just accept I may have to redo the deck in 10 yrs. I plan on keeping it garage stored so I know it will be out of the elements for the most part. But you did bring up a good point of the strips wearing through the finish of the wood.

 

[Watermann]

I dunno about worrying over the wear, it it's not the strips then the rib ends would. If the deck is down tight it won't rub, especially after the sides panels are set.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

I had this baby hooked up to go build a blind for duck hunting blind but my buddy got tied up at work. So I did another leak test. These things can take some water in the inside thats for sure. Good news is there are no more known leaks!



This is the time I had it hooked up to the truck on this trailer, made me want to head to the boat ramp and put it in just for the heck of it. It is sitting about 2 feet froward on the trailer than where it should be. Ill adjust the crank after I flip it to paint. Which Im thinking is my next step to tackle while it is lighter with no wood in it.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

put in or 26 days of vacation. Might get the paint and floor done if it gets approved and the green stuff is around. Paint will be first if this happens. Plan to start vaca on 11th, we will see.

If it happens, has anyone used rattle can etching primer to do there 16ft'er SS? If so, roughly how many cans do you think I will need?

And is sanding a must or can I roll paint my base coats on while primer hasnt fully cured?

Opinions, links and such are welcome! Hopefully this vaca goes through!

 

[Watermann]

Yeah I used Rusto SE primer in the rattle can to prime the hulls on my boats, then shot 1 coat regular primer (poly alkyd base formula, same as my paint) over the top with HVLP and then 2 coats of paint. I didn't sand anything, ever, done deal. I used a bunch of SE primer cans on my Chief and can't remember how many on my 16'r. if your doing the outside only, get 4 or 5 cans, you'll for sure have some left over for the next paint project or the inside.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Yeah I used Rusto SE primer in the rattle can to prime the hulls on my boats, then shot 1 coat regular primer (poly alkyd base formula, same as my paint) over the top with HVLP and then 2 coats of paint. I didn't sand anything, ever, done deal. I used a bunch of SE primer cans on my Chief and can't remember how many on my 16'r. if your doing the outside only, get 4 or 5 cans, you'll for sure have some left over for the next paint project or the inside.

what was the reason for that extra coat of other primer? Just so it chemically matched your paint? 5 cans sounds good to me. Thanks for the info!

 

[Watermann]

what was the reason for that extra coat of other primer? Just so it chemically matched your paint? 5 cans sounds good to me. Thanks for the info!

My thought was to have a nice even HVLP sprayed solid base coat to start with before the paint. The SE primer out of a rattle can doesn't go on real even and is pretty light too. I guess I really didn't have to shoot the regular primer it's just what I did and it turned out good in the end. I didn't use the regular primer on my SN but I did lay on a pretty healthy coat of SE so either way works.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Haven't gotten much done lately. Back to working Mon-Fri's slowed me down. Ive been out though looking at wood and foam. Big box stores don't really have the quality wood I a am looking for so I will hit the local lumber yard for that. I did pick up a gallon of Hellsman spar urethane. Hope thats the right stuff. Any know if I can paint over that? I guess ill be ordering some rivets too to secure the deck down. I should get the boat flipped this weekend and maybe even get some primer done. we will see.

For the deck rivets, If I go 3/4 ply, should the grip range be around 3/4 to 1" or 1" to 1 1/4"?

 

[hayko1971]

3/4 - 1 should suffice if you countersink the rivets to avoid them showing through the vinyl or whatever you put on the floor. If you plan on wrapping the floor and then riveting, I would choose the longer ones to accommodate the thickness of material.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Hmmm, im going carpet. Brought up some good questions hayko.ill have to think about them for a bit.

 

[Watermann]

You just need to add up the thickness' of what you plan on using to determine grip range of the large flange rivet you'll need. There's no way I would try boring out scores of counter sunk holes in the ply for each of the LF rivets.

Ply - 3/4" .750
+
Rib end - .080
+
Deck covering?

Remember too short a rivet = bad...

 

[g0nef1sshn]

I think counter sinking will add areas for water to sit. Not gonna do that. I think ill secure the deck, then capet though. I heard my 26 day vaca is good to go. Starting on the 11th there should be a lot of progress made.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

So today I picked up (2) 2x4x12 rough cut cedar boards to replace the bunks. Then I double guess if its the right kind of cedar. Any opinions on this? I only need them 10' long. I've read some say it dries and cracks fast, others I read say you need red cedar? I don't know. They weren't that much so I dont have to use them.

Also picked up I sheet of ACX ply to maybe get the transom wood figured out. Ill be painting the boat first, but I figure this will give me time to get it cut and sealed while the paint is drying anyway.

Ordered the large flange rivets also. went with the 3/16th's with the 1" grip.

 

[astor]

I counter sunk all my deck rivets, but I used nautolex vinyl and didn't them showing, and just used a sharp forstner bit it didn't take long, then I filled all the holes with wood filler then a dab of spar so no water traps. But I probably wouldn't counter sink them if I was using carpet.

not sure on the types of cedar, but I would use what you bought, and replace it when needed

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Made a cardboard piece fit then cut some wood today. Still need to do all the rest though, got two pieces that fit in there.

 

[Watermann]

Ah yeah the aroma of freshly sawed ply :happy:

Jeez I'm getting old, trying to remember if when you do the cut out for on the top of the transom ply for an OB do you cut the same 15 degree angle like we do on the stern drives?