73 Sea Ray restoration

GSPLures

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Sep 3, 2019
Messages
564
Well she is filleted into place not the prettiest but hey I don't want to get rusty on my sanding skills. Hats off to friscoboater if he is still around that pvc for the bilge drain was alot harder than he made it look! I ended up using a threaded rod with washers on each side to hold it in place while I PBed around it I just have to clean the hole up now when I clean the fillets. I did not get to tabbing it's been on and off rain all day and I had to run out and pick up more cabosil, but I do have all the tabbing cut and ready for glassing.
20200828_173825_compress51.jpg sorry about the mess I didn't clean up before the picture.
 

Baylinerchuck

Commander
Joined
Jul 29, 2016
Messages
2,726
Hey man, the transom looks great!



Couple things.....

I always make “hairy” peanut butter. That is adding 1/4” chop to the mix. This reinforces the PB and will prevent the thickened resin from cracking, especially when you lay on the PB thick, like fillets. Cabosil is a great thickening additive, but offers zero reinforcement, and polyester resin chemically has no binders to prevent the cracking, hence the reason we use CSM in poly layups. Mix the hairy PB by pouring resin, add cabosil until it’s just about mayonnaise, add a few pinches of 1/4” chop....mix well. When you get the consistency what you want, add the MEKP at the desired ratio. The chop strands will help mix everything to the same consistency which is why I add them before the MEKP.

Getchya some disposable pastry bags for doing fillets. You can dump the hairy PB in the bag, cut the tip of the bag and use it like caulk. Some guys use a spoon to tool the PB into the shape of a fillet, I just used my thumb while wearing a nitrile glove. The goal in the fillet is to make a cove so the CSM or 1708 will transition easily in those corners. You might say rounding off the corner. Glass does not really like edges and sharp turns.

When the fillets are hard, run your fingers over them gently with a nitrile glove. Anything that pulls the glove needs to be sanded, and smoothed. I found that if I use a chip brush and paint a thin coat of lightly thickened resin without strands over the fillets, it greatly smoothed out the fillets and made a much nicer layup.

I have subscribed and will be following along to offer whatever help I can. You’re doing a great job thus far. Way to go!!! It’s not an easy task, but you’re plugging away nicely.
 

GSPLures

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Sep 3, 2019
Messages
564
Hey man, the transom looks great!



Couple things.....

I always make “hairy” peanut butter. That is adding 1/4” chop to the mix. This reinforces the PB and will prevent the thickened resin from cracking, especially when you lay on the PB thick, like fillets. Cabosil is a great thickening additive, but offers zero reinforcement, and polyester resin chemically has no binders to prevent the cracking, hence the reason we use CSM in poly layups. Mix the hairy PB by pouring resin, add cabosil until it’s just about mayonnaise, add a few pinches of 1/4” chop....mix well. When you get the consistency what you want, add the MEKP at the desired ratio. The chop strands will help mix everything to the same consistency which is why I add them before the MEKP.

Getchya some disposable pastry bags for doing fillets. You can dump the hairy PB in the bag, cut the tip of the bag and use it like caulk. Some guys use a spoon to tool the PB into the shape of a fillet, I just used my thumb while wearing a nitrile glove. The goal in the fillet is to make a cove so the CSM or 1708 will transition easily in those corners. You might say rounding off the corner. Glass does not really like edges and sharp turns.

When the fillets are hard, run your fingers over them gently with a nitrile glove. Anything that pulls the glove needs to be sanded, and smoothed. I found that if I use a chip brush and paint a thin coat of lightly thickened resin without strands over the fillets, it greatly smoothed out the fillets and made a much nicer layup.

I have subscribed and will be following along to offer whatever help I can. You’re doing a great job thus far. Way to go!!! It’s not an easy task, but you’re plugging away nicely.

Thank you! I have been adding CSM to the PB. I have been playing with the ratios of CSM and cabosil to try and find what works best for me. I got close last time I'm sure I will have it perfected finally on my last mix of PB lol.

I was planning on finishing the transom layup today, but my back and shoulder has different plans. I am definitely sore from lifting and placing the transom a hundred times when I was fine tuning the fit.
 

kcassells

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 16, 2012
Messages
8,720
You are doing Great G! Yup play with the pb. You can make that to even work upside down and stay in place. Well worth the
learning curve.
Beer break says I
 

GSPLures

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Sep 3, 2019
Messages
564
You are doing Great G! Yup play with the pb. You can make that to even work upside down and stay in place. Well worth the
learning curve.
Beer break says I

Yeah the first 2 batches were not thick enough I had to babysit the fillets with a spoon until they started to gel. For the last 2 mixes I started with mixing in CSM until it was like a jelly then added hardner at 1% mixed well then added my cabosil until it was where I thought it should be. Now I am trying to figure out the ratio for the CSM.

I am also considering adding the mekp at 1.5% the next time. It seems like it takes longer to kick when it is thickened. Could be due to the filler or I just think it is taking longer because I am slightly impatient when things dry, I like to poke it and have to wash my finger lol.

Ha it might be a little to early for a beer break right now.
 

kcassells

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 16, 2012
Messages
8,720
Quick tip;
Drop the chopped glass into the resin 1st. They float then will sink to bottom when saturated. Then whoop up your mix.
12:00 obeer time somewhere.
 

GSPLures

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Sep 3, 2019
Messages
564
I do have a question. My original inside glass for the transom was a thin layer of chop. When I go to do my layup I am going to run 2 staggered 1708 tabs around the transom then I was going to use one layer of 1708 extended over the tabbing. After that was on I was going to measure thickness for the keyhole with my micrometer. I am at 1.9 inches right now so I believe this should get me close to what merc wants (2"- 2 1/8").

If I am under can I just put one more layer over the doubled wood around the keyhole. And not extend it all the way to the hull? Since that piece would be basically for thickness and not necessarily strength (it's already going to be stronger than factory). I am thinking this to save every ounce of weight and of course material.
 

kcassells

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Oct 16, 2012
Messages
8,720
I'm not a innyouty guy I'm an outboard guy. But I do not see any issues with your reasoning. I believe primarily that the specific area around the key hole has to be pretty much darn on the money. So in that regard maybe Baylinerchuck
Mad Props chevymaher can give some input. All very experienced in this dept.
 

GSPLures

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Sep 3, 2019
Messages
564
I decided that I'm going to work on the boat today. After sanding the fillets I decided they were not up to par so mixed up some more and fixed the bad ones and ran a coat over the rest once that starts to get tacky I am going to lay my tabbing in.

I did however discover something I have not seen before so I will share it to help others out. I did not buy any quarter chop because I decided to cut up my off cuts. Which by the way sucks. I was getting ready to go buy some when I thought what the hell I have a paper shredder let's try it out.
20200829_140313_compress91.jpg20200829_140546_compress55.jpg
not exactly 1/4in but worked pretty good in my opinion.
 

chevymaher

Commander
Joined
Mar 29, 2017
Messages
2,921
I put the 1708 On the transom staggered in 2 layers like the tabbing would be. Then put it in and tabbed it. Much easier doing glass on benches.

I also cut the second layer of the transom. The center section. Cut the edges in a 45 degree. No fillet needed. Glass lays right in that.
 

GSPLures

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Sep 3, 2019
Messages
564
I put the 1708 On the transom staggered in 2 layers like the tabbing would be. Then put it in and tabbed it. Much easier doing glass on benches.

I also cut the second layer of the transom. The center section. Cut the edges in a 45 degree. No fillet needed. Glass lays right in that.

Sounds alot easier I wish I would have done that. I just got done tabbing in the transom. So would it work to just do 1 layer across the whole transom going past my tabbing and then build thickness on the double layer with another layer going a few inches past the doubled section around the keyhole?
 

Baylinerchuck

Commander
Joined
Jul 29, 2016
Messages
2,726
Glad you’re putting in the chopped strands. There is nothing wrong with adding in shredded CSM. It’s in essence the same thing. Additional layups to build the thickness that Mercruiser specs is correct.
 

kcassells

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Joined
Oct 16, 2012
Messages
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chevymaher Made a great point. Any time you do glassing on the flat {a table} take advantage of it.
Faster, cleaner and easier. 45 degrees wood edges and rounded tops make for good practice too!
 

GSPLures

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Sep 3, 2019
Messages
564
Yeah I should have done that. Would of made life alot easier and my forearms less sticky lol. But all in all I am thrilled to have my transom in and the strength it has with it not even fully glassed in yet is amazing.

I cant wait for the stringers and the deck to be in. Once that happens I will be sitting on a folding chair behind the helm making boat noises until it is done.
 

Baylinerchuck

Commander
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Jul 29, 2016
Messages
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Boat noises on fold up chairs is all a part of the adventure. I’ve heard rumor that a well placed fan while making boat motor sounds tends to approve the overall experience......;)
 
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