73 Sea Ray restoration

[GSPLures]

kcassellsplmb@aol.com

I think I sent the PM not sure though it was acting funny.

 

[GSPLures]

Not a whole lot of an update due to working Saturday and today I had to overseed my lawn.

I used my router to round out all the edges of the stringers and placed with spacers and hot glue (thank you for the tip, worked great!) So hopefully they cancel next saturday then i can get them bedded.

Do I have to bed all at once or can I do a little bit each night using the pastry bag method to squirt under the stringer then round the fillets?

 

[kcassells]

No you can do that as your time permits.

 

[KJM]

As far as foam and draining goes, I was planning on using ridged Styrofoam, like goes on outside concrete basements below grade. Cut it to fit, leave an inch or so space next to stringers and next to hull with spacers. Probably pl it to the spacers which will be pl'ed to the floor. That way any water can drain freely, with drian holes cut in bulkheads and stringers so water can drain back to the bilge. Would that work do you think?

 

[GSPLures]

As far as foam and draining goes, I was planning on using ridged Styrofoam, like goes on outside concrete basements below grade. Cut it to fit, leave an inch or so space next to stringers and next to hull with spacers. Probably pl it to the spacers which will be pl'ed to the floor. That way any water can drain freely, with drian holes cut in bulkheads and stringers so water can drain back to the bilge. Would that work do you think?

I have been thinking about that, but not sure if i want to give up the extra structural benefit of pour in foam.

 

[KJM]

I have been thinking about that, but not sure if i want to give up the extra structural benefit of pour in foam.

Yes there is that, I'm just going to put in a few extra bulkheads for floor support and have the Styrofoam up as tight to the floor as I can get it, maybe a little higher then the stringers and then press it down with the floor itself.

 

[GSPLures]

Yes there is that, I'm just going to put in a few extra bulkheads for floor support and have the Styrofoam up as tight to the floor as I can get it, maybe a little higher then the stringers and then press it down with the floor itself.

I may use it on the sides of my ski locker because I added more structure there. Although I am worried if it does not fit tight enough there may be a squeaking noise from movement. Under my bow most of the structure comes from the foam so I will be replacing that with pour in.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

I too mulled over the whole drainage topic. For months it seems. In the end, I decided that the structural integrity of pour in foam far outweighed overthinking a drainage system that should never get used. When the engineers design a boat, that foam goes into the overall concept. Not only does it add some floatation in smaller boats, but it’s necessary structure in boats over 20’. The manufacturers were NOT required to add pour in foam to boats over 20’, so why did they? Strength and rigidity to help support the stringer system.

I decided to focus my efforts on ensuring those cavities that would contain foam were perfectly sealed up. I ensured there were no penetrations into those cavities.

That’s my opinion.....but as a disclaimer, I did not stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night.

 

[GSPLures]

I too mulled over the whole drainage topic. For months it seems. In the end, I decided that the structural integrity of pour in foam far outweighed overthinking a drainage system that should never get used. When the engineers design a boat, that foam goes into the overall concept. Not only does it add some floatation in smaller boats, but it’s necessary structure in boats over 20’. The manufacturers were NOT required to add pour in foam to boats over 20’, so why did they? Strength and rigidity to help support the stringer system.

I decided to focus my efforts on ensuring those cavities that would contain foam were perfectly sealed up. I ensured there were no penetrations into those cavities.

That’s my opinion.....but as a disclaimer, I did not stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night.

That is how I am leaning. My boat stayed afloat for almost 50 years with poor workmanship. So with my slightly better than poor workmanship will at least guarantee me 30 more years:lol:

 

[GSPLures]

Another update without much to update. Work is relentless lately (60hrs) and motivation is zero by time I get home. I did manage to buy some 3mil plastic to make a tent around my boat. Then found out my heater cord was a foot short of sitting on the bow to blow through the center of the windshield. So I had to buy the stuff and made the cord 5ft longer.

The heater hanging from the rafter got my garage from 58deg to 75deg in 20 minutes. With the heater under the tent I shouldn't have a problem getting the boat to 60 during Michigan winters and hopefully I can get it to 80 for pouring foam.

I keep telling myself next week motivation or not I have to get these stringers bedded by next weekend. Time will tell lol.

 

[kcassells]

Hang in there. The MOJO does come back!

 

[GSPLures]

Pics of the tent and heater set up. Seems to be working and no fires lol. Figure I will let it run for about an hour before any glassing so the surfaces are up to temp. Not pretty but effective. The real test will be when the temps drop to about 10deg

 

[kcassells]

I forget... you are using poly, very dangerous when wrapped up. Explosive and fumes.
You will need to build it like a paint room with air in and an exhaust.

 

[GSPLures]

The plastic is secured very loose around the boat just enough tape to keep it secured but will allow air in also I planned on leaving a gap behind the heater. I did not wrap the keyhole my idea was going to be to secure a box fan on the outside of the transom to draw air out of the keyhole. The heater is a 240 electric so there is no open flame from the heater.

 

[kcassells]

Chime ineers;
sphelps mickyryan Baylinerchuck Scott Danforth

 

[GSPLures]

I got the fan in place and used flexible duct that i placed outside the boat and secured to the back of the heater to draw fresh air into the heater. I turned everything on and the inside has a nice breeze flowing through it.

I tested the duct to make sure it is drawing air by placing a piece of sandpaper over it and it holds. I tested to see if the inside will clear by sitting inside and smoking a few cigarettes all I could think of:noidea:.

Any other ideas to make sure that the boat is adequate on ventilation.

I was also thinking to reinstall my bilge blower.

You are absolutely right kcassells, I was concerned about combustion but it was at the back of my mind instead of the front.

If I cannot be absolutely certain it is safe i will wait until warmer weather which I hope I do not have to

 

[GSPLures]

I believe I figured it out the easy answer was right infront of me the whole time.

I am going to take out the heater and disconnect the flexible duct and attach it to the hot side and pipe it into the boat so the heating element will not be under the tent. It will give me my positive air flow which will be heated and the fan will exhaust the fumes.

The only down side is I will have to cycle the heater on and off to keep at the temp I want which far outweighs :target: . At least the heater has a remote which will make it easier.

 

[sphelps]

As long as it’s relatively warm while your installing the glass you can do your layup then run the heater while it’s curing ..
‘You can also place a couple space heaters under the hull to help warm up the hull where you plan on glassing ..
I live in Florida so I haven’t had to deal to much with temps on any of my projects .. It’s usually the other way around .
To dang humid and hot to paint ! LOL !

 

[Scott Danforth]

you will need to make sure the hull is well over 60 for the foam. that means well over a few hours at 80 degrees

to get enough poly vapors in the air to cause combustion, you would have already passed out from the level

I used to paint hot rods in the winter in NE Wisco. run the shop up to 90, leave there for 3 hours, then start the fans and crack the main door 4" and start spraying. it would turn the snow in the shop drive what ever color I was spraying, and by the time I was done spraying, the temp would have dropped to about 60. then shut the door and run the temp up to 90 and let dry for a bit....repeat for next coat....

Agree with Sam, normally poly kicks in the bucket or gel kicks in the gun down here

 

[GSPLures]

Doing the foam is wishful thinking on my part lol. It would be nice to be able to but I already am planning on waiting for winter to pass. If I can get the floor tabbed in and ready for foam by spring I will be happy and then foam and get the rest finished in time for summer.

I will run the temp up for awhile before glassing then shut off once the glass is curing I will then kick the heater back on. At least in the off chance it goes boom I will be using a remote for the heater so the only thing I will have to do then is convince the insurance agency I had a mint condition boat and have no clue what happened lol.

I appreciate everybody's help.