72 Thunderbird Formula w/twin 165hp Mercs

[Mark72233]

I have a question on some of the hull repairs before I do them. One is a small hole in the bottom of the hull where a thru hull transducer was removed. On the outside of the hull I was going to tape it closed. Inside after grinding and cleaning with Acetone should I put 5200 or P.B. in the hole. Then should I put a couple of layers of 1708 over it.

 

[Mark72233]

The second repair is on the transom where I got a little carried away with the grinder. There are 2 holes just outside where the new transom wood will be joined to the outer skin of the transom. The holes are very small but are where there will be a lot of stress being exerted on the transom. Should I just tape the outside and P.B. the inside. I was thinking before I attached the new transom wood to lay a thick layer of P.B. then cover it with a couple of layers of either CSM and or 1708. This would then be covered with more P.B. and CSM and 1708 when I attach the transom wood because it is right at the edge of where it will be.

 

[Mark72233]

The last repair is the another spot where the grinder got away from me. It is in the same location as the other two small holes just the opposite side of the transom. This hole is larger but I was thinking the same way of fixing it.

 

[Woodonglass]

On those "Baby Holes" all you need to do is Duct Tape em on the outside and fill em with Hairy PB on the inside. (Tear up some CSM fibers and mix it in with your Resin and Cabosil). Do it now. Then do a normal install on your transom...as described here.,..

Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms

Nothing else is needed. You can do the normal outside repairs when the time comes.

 

[Mark72233]

Wood thanks. Just to make sure we are on the same page. I have the cabosil and I also have CSM and plenty of 1/4 inch chop strand. Tear up the CSM for the hairy PB or use the 1/4 chop?

 

[Woodonglass]

Tear up the CSM into small fibers. It's called Hairy PB. It's more Structural than using the Chop. You want it to be more structural in these areas thus the "Hairy Stuff" There's several different kinds of PB. This is just one of the Variations. Use your hands to tear it at first then use some scissors to get it down to about 1/2" - 3/4" You won't need but about a teaspoon per patch.

 

[Mark72233]

Still grinding the hull. GRIND, GRIND, GRIND. It will never end. I did take a break this Saturday and drove up to Russellville,AL and picked up my engine I found on Ebay for a very good deal. The engine came with a boat and very nice original trailer. The boat is a Regal 190 Valanti 17 foot Bow rider that was stored in a barn for a few years.



The previous owner started a restoration by taking out the floor, windshield, fuel tank and engine. He then replaced the original engine with a Chev 250 Merc 165hp which is want I was looking for. He then realized what he had gotten into and gave up on the project.

If anyone is looking for a nice trailer for their 17-19 foot boat or a nice project boat minus an engine, I might know where to find one.

 

[Mark72233]

Still grinding. About 90% done. Just a few more hours should do it and I can start putting her back together again.


After two months of working on the boat I realized I did not have the obligatory picture in the hazmat suit so here it is.

 

[nurseman]

There is no way around it, grinding sucks!!! Still, progress is looking good!

 

[Woodonglass]

Who Dat!!!! It's Grinder Man!!!! Run and get the Talcum Powder!!!!!

 

[Mark72233]

There is no way around it, grinding sucks!!! Still, progress is looking good!

Thanks Nurseman. I figure another 3 hours and I will be done with the major part of the grinding and can start measuring and cutting stringers.

 

[Mark72233]

Who Dat!!!! It's Grinder Man!!!! Run and get the Talcum Powder!!!!!

I don't know who came up with the idea of using baby powder but it seems to work or I am just getting used to bathing in glass dust.

 

[nurseman]

The baby powder does work pretty good, but you do kinda get used to it. At least I did, I kinda started to not mind the itch.:wacko: Not sure if I need professional help...

 

[Rickmerrill]

Hey Mark, glad to see you joined the full face respirator generation and that yellow suit, so styling!

 

[Woodonglass]

The baby powder does work pretty good, but you do kinda get used to it. At least I did, I kinda started to not mind the itch.:wacko: Not sure if I need professional help...

Yah, I'm pretty sure you DO need help!!! Have you checked for FLEAS lately???:crazy:

 

[Mark72233]

Aren't we all a little :crazy::crazy::crazy:. Its part of what makes us want to restore an old boat and like it.

 

[Woodonglass]

Not me, I'm Normal. The voices in my head tell me everyday not to listen to those other guys that tell me I'm not. They're the ones that are NOT normal. I'm perfectly fine!!!:lalala:

 

[SnapperMassacre]

Hey mark, just read thru your thread! Awesome progress!

 

[Mark72233]

Its been a little while since I have posted any updates but have been working on the boat every chance I get.
I cut and shaped the transom and 2 stringers so far. The transom was easy to build compared to the two stringers. Since I have to sister the new stringers onto the old stringers right as they go under the cockpit floor I decided to make them a little beefier. The originals are 3/4" and the new ones are 1 1/4" (3/4" and 1/2" ply laminated together). I took the basic measurement and made two laminated blocks that were just a couple inches to long and about an inch to high. This gave me a 13 foot long 10" high glued piece of bullet proof plywood to cut the stringers out of. I used the Tribond III waterproof glue which works very well. Took a sample piece of 1 1/4" glued piece of ply and tried to separate it at my glued seam, It would only separate or break at the factory glued seam. The first stringer took me all day to make and get the angles and height changes just right. The second one took me an hour.



I have coated everything in resin and filled any holes or gaps with PB.

 

[Mark72233]

I put resin on the transom and filled all the gaps and holes with PB. After it hardened I grinded down any high or rough spots and put a layer of CSM on the back side. I cut the CSM just about 2 inches to big all the way around and then used WOGs advise to tear the edges all the way around. This was my first time fiber glassing anything and thanks to what I have learned here it went without any complications. The torn edges stretched and laid down nicely on the rounded edges of the wood and left no air pockets or waves.