2006 Volvo 5.7 osi-d crank no start

[woodsy01]

Mine was both head gaskets blown right next to a water passage which would allow water to leak into the front 2 cyls as the engine cooled off. Compression was normal but water in #2 cyl and just a mist of water in #1. Probably caused by an overheat a few years before.
A few tips on this job:
clean clean clean the cyl head bolt holes in the head, use a gun cleaning brush and solvent and compressed air, then a thread chaser to clean the threads, so your head bolts get proper torque, also make sure the cyl head bolts thread all the way in before installing the heads. Don't want a nasty surprise when you have most of the bolts in.
if the cyl head bolts are very rusty consider replacing them, I used ARP head bolts
clean clean clean the deck surface of the block, it must be super clean, and flat and level (less than .003" variation) for the new head gaskets to seal.
check the mating surface for the intake manifold too, esp for the water passages at the front, these can get pitted from corrosion.
I did this back in 2017 and its still running well now.
These engines are simple to take apart, and the parts are cheap. I kept the roller lifters in their respective positions, same with the pushrods and rocker arms. Keep the parts organized and clean.

Thanks, my next worry is resetting the rockers, any tips there ?
The brass fitting on the riser is a pain, cant turn it with the rocker cover on so I need to have it sorted before I try to run the motor or I'm on and off with the riser to access rockers :-(
PS have ordered new head bolts. It's a motor I have owned since new, in pretty good shape and bolts so far all seem in very good condition....hopefully bolt holes in block are too.

 

[Lou C]

some newer engines have non adjustable valve train, mine is adjustable, not sure if yours is or not. So with these the rocker bolts just get torqued down to a set torque figure. You'd be best off to have a real factory shop manual doing this job, that's how I did it.

 

[Scott06]

some newer engines have non adjustable valve train, mine is adjustable, not sure if yours is or not. So with these the rocker bolts just get torqued down to a set torque figure. You'd be best off to have a real factory shop manual doing this job, that's how I did it.

Im pretty sure the 2006 5.7 is just torque to value non adjustable

@alldodge or @Scott Danforth would know

 

[alldodge]

Im pretty sure the 2006 5.7 is just torque to value non adjustable

@alldodge or @Scott Danforth would know

The SBC is one full turn after zero lash.
Manuals 24 and 31

Never did understand why the SBC is that way and the BBC is tighten to torque

 

[Scott Danforth]

Stock vortec heads are not adjustable
If the heads were changed to adjustable valvtrain, then 3/4 to 1 turn after zero lash

 

[alldodge]

Stock vortec heads are not adjustable
If the heads were changed to adjustable valvtrain, then 3/4 to 1 turn after zero lash

Your saying the manual's are not correct?

 

[alldodge]

 

[Lou C]

Yep I did my pre Vortec one turn after zero lash. But I know for sure the Vortec 4.3s are non adjustable.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Your saying the manual's are not correct?

Yes, the manual is wrong

 

[alldodge]

I'm not from Missouri but I need a show me kind of thing for future reference please.

 

[Tail_Gunner]

Valve lash in the 21st century. Somethings never change.

I grew up in a GM garage, I can openly state two very accomplished mechanics do things there each individual way.

Trying to get them on the same page can be a journey all into itself. Actually ive seen it here on I-boats.

Long ago both Don and Bond-o were commenting on a repair approach..It ended up with Don coining Bondo the
" Charmouth Butcher" I almost fell out of my chair. In Dons own way it was quite a compliment.

 

[woodsy01]

Thank you all, seems differing opinions here… my motor is standard, 5.7 (not the 4.3 mentioned above) any idea what the torque setting is ? I cannot locate a manual here or online. Fortunately I have found torque settings for the heads and manifold.
How critical is this procedure being 100% and do I need to “loctite” the rocker nuts ?

 

[Lou C]

You need either a Volvo Penta manual or a GM shop manual. It’s a garden variety plain old Chevrolet 5.7 Vortec but you need to have the right specs.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Thank you all, seems differing opinions here… my motor is standard, 5.7 (not the 4.3 mentioned above) any idea what the torque setting is ? I cannot locate a manual here or online. Fortunately I have found torque settings for the heads and manifold.
How critical is this procedure being 100% and do I need to “loctite” the rocker nuts ?

18-20 ft-lb for non-adjustable valvetrain on the 1996 and newer motors with vortec heads 4.3/5.0/5.7/6.2. make sure the valve is in the closed position when you take the torque reading. look at your hardware holding the rocker arms. that will tell you if you have adjustable or non-adjustable valve-train

the rocker ball would have a spacer under neath it to set height for non-adjustable. also adjustable nuts are deformed threads. the nut looks like 3 of the flats were mashed with a tool

no, you do not need to loctite on non-adjustable, however I like to use blue

no loctite on adjustable as the nut is a deformed-thread locking type

 

[woodsy01]

 

[woodsy01]

here's a photo mine, are these the deformed threads you mention ? thanks

 

[Scott Danforth]

here's a photo mine, are these the deformed threads you mention ? thanks

adjustable valve train.

therefore 3/4 to 1 turn past zero lash (no vertical movement)

 

[woodsy01]

adjustable valve train.

therefore 3/4 to 1 turn past zero lash (no vertical movement)

thanks, with each cylinder at TDC, correct ? ie rotate motor 90 degrees to adjust each rocker

 

[Tail_Gunner]

Have you pulled your heads off? Are these valves still stuck? Are you searching for water intrusion?

I see you have a tbi, they we're once known as a slobber body. Meaning fuel was just dumped into the engine. If your engine was not run hard often it more than probably all carboned up. Can heavy carbon cause vales to stick yes no question.

Did you attempt to free these stuck valves? Two dead cylinders can cripple a boat engine...exhaust cylinders would be highly in question.

 

[woodsy01]

Have you pulled your heads off? Are these valves still stuck? Are you searching for water intrusion?

I see you have a tbi, they we're once known as a slobber body. Meaning fuel was just dumped into the engine. If your engine was not run hard often it more than probably all carboned up. Can heavy carbon cause vales to stick yes no question.

Did you attempt to free these stuck valves? Two dead cylinders can cripple a boat engine...exhaust cylinders would be highly in question.

thanks for reply, valves didnt appear stuck once rocker off, I'm trying to get the head off now, took a while to get the intake off as I'm doing it in the boat, with about 8 in of clearance above flame arrestor, makes a challenge usually run at 3200 for about an hour to fishing spot, so not generally "laboured". runs fine until under load and a slight ping/misfire at about 2800 so didn't go far with that occurring.