2006 Volvo 5.7 osi-d crank no start

[woodsy01]

Hi, my engine has been hard to start when hot for some time.
Recently it started idling very rough so I changed plugs with Volvo OEM.
Wouldn’t start at all, put old plugs back in, started. Put new plugs in again and it started, ran for 10 minutes approx at idle and up to say 3000 rpm at dock.
Turned off and hasn’t started since with either plugs.
So far have done the following ;
Checked spark, seems ok
Replaced fuel filter, no sign of water.
Replaced Map, cps, tps with aftermarket.
Check ohms on coolant sensor.
Had injectors serviced.
Checked fuel pressure approx 10 and 50 at low and hi. New pumps in any case, only 12 months old.
Tried second hand dizzy cap,
Rotor and coil.
Looked at IAC but not sure what it should do, seems to move in and out with key on etc.
Seems to flood, plugs smell of gas and are black very quickly.
Was throwing a bit of black soot out exhaust on the last outing when starting.
I THINK firing order is correct from what I can see online. Wondering if dizzy cap can be put on 180 degrees wrong ? But it did start the problem before I changed cap.
Any help at all much appreciated!
I am in NZ and knowledge of this engine seems limited.

 

[alldodge]

NZ, love the place was only there once in 1976, great people

Seems to flood, plugs smell of gas and are black very quickly.
Was throwing a bit of black soot out exhaust on the last outing when starting.

How about the motor serial number?

Your flooding and something is causing to much fuel to enter

 

[woodsy01]

NZ, love the place was only there once in 1976, great people



How about the motor serial number?

Your flooding and something is causing to much fuel to enter

Thanks Alldodge, I’ll need to get that number for you later today/tomorrow.
Welcome back to NZ anytime

 

[woodsy01]

Can you read the attached alldodge ?

 

[alldodge]

Looks to e 4012106934 but it comes out to a GL-E so I'm missing something

 

[woodsy01]

Looks to e 4012106934 but it comes out to a GL-E so I'm missing something

Think it’s 4012166934

 

[ripjmk]

It is possible that the fuel cell float valve is leaking by and passing fuel to the inlet manifold. The float valve is supposed to allow vapors to pass to fill the cell with fuel and the float should shut the valve when the cell is full.
An easy check is to disconnect the small diameter vapor hose at the inlet manifold, cap the manifold connection with something (piece of hose pinched off), and place the hose end from the cell into a jar. Try to start the engine and see if any fuel goes into the jar. If the engine is no longer flooded it may start and run normally.
If it is the problem, the cell needs to be taken apart and cleaned or replaced.
If not, you have at least discounted it and can move on.

 

[woodsy01]

It is possible that the fuel cell float valve is leaking by and passing fuel to the inlet manifold. The float valve is supposed to allow vapors to pass to fill the cell with fuel and the float should shut the valve when the cell is full.
An easy check is to disconnect the small diameter vapor hose at the inlet manifold, cap the manifold connection with something (piece of hose pinched off), and place the hose end from the cell into a jar. Try to start the engine and see if any fuel goes into the jar. If the engine is no longer flooded it may start and run normally.
If it is the problem, the cell needs to be taken apart and cleaned or replaced.
If not, you have at least discounted it and can move on.

thanks for your reply, I have tried that, forgot to mention in original post. Troy at man cave mechanic helped me with the potential fuel cell issues. There was no fuel coming from there on cranking, of course I don’t know when running as I can’t get it running.

 

[alldodge]

Thanks for the number.
Your motor doesn't have the VST as I think ripjmk was eluding to, it has the standard high and low pressure pumps

Thinking your main issue is lack of spark. Could use the motor scanned for codes, but this would take a Techmate scanner or Rinda software.

With cap and rotor being just replaced I would check spark with a spark gap tester.

The crankshaft position sensor (CPS) is located on the timing chain cover. Disconnect the connector and see if the contacts need to be cleaned and contacts are tight.

When cranking do you see the Tach move at all?

Bring No.1 cylinder to compression TDC and check the position of the distributor


This bulletin shows how to clock the dizzy using a cheap home made tool

Both are from Merc but they work for VP

 

[ripjmk]

Thanks for the number.
Your motor doesn't have the VST as I think ripjmk was eluding to, it has the standard high and low pressure pumps

alldodge, although he doesn't have the VST he does have the float (see :

). But he has checked it and it's good.

woodsy01, I agree with ad about getting it scanned. You also said you "tried" a second hand distributor cap, is the original back on the engine now? These caps are notorious for just going bad, I'd buy a brand new one and install it. It's good to carry a spare new cap anyway if it's not that.

 

[woodsy01]

Thanks for the number.
Your motor doesn't have the VST as I think ripjmk was eluding to, it has the standard high and low pressure pumps

Thinking your main issue is lack of spark. Could use the motor scanned for codes, but this would take a Techmate scanner or Rinda software.

With cap and rotor being just replaced I would check spark with a spark gap tester.

The crankshaft position sensor (CPS) is located on the timing chain cover. Disconnect the connector and see if the contacts need to be cleaned and contacts are tight.

When cranking do you see the Tach move at all?

Bring No.1 cylinder to compression TDC and check the position of the distributor
View attachment 354381

This bulletin shows how to clock the dizzy using a cheap home made tool

Both are from Merc but they work for VP

Thanks again, yep, getting about 300 rpm on tach at crank. Tried cleaning ALL connections with an electrical cleaning spray recently.
Could it be the cps wire grounding ?
Does spark need to be any strength or just spark, some say must be blue.
Wouldn’t be engine grounding or something ?

 

[woodsy01]

If tach is showing 300 ish rpm does that confirm cps wiring is ok ?
Tach used to swing wildly occasionally when running at say cruise speed, 22 kts, would go to zero, up to 3-4000rpm and flick all over the show.
It’s been hard to start when hot, requiring full throttle, for some time.

 

[woodsy01]

alldodge, although he doesn't have the VST he does have the float (see :

). But he has checked it and it's good.

woodsy01, I agree with ad about getting it scanned. You also said you "tried" a second hand distributor cap, is the original back on the engine now? These caps are notorious for just going bad, I'd buy a brand new one and install it. It's good to carry a spare new cap anyway if it's not that.

Will put original dizzy cap on.
Timing/alignment shouldn’t have changed should it by changing cap

 

[woodsy01]

I’m getting the odd “pop” when cranking it over

 

[alldodge]

Spark gap should be Blue or White and be able to jump 10mm. Spark should be constant and not intermittent.

The tach showing 300 then there is signal. Not sure if CPS is doing this or the Cam sensor. The Cam sensor is on the Dizzy and may not have a cable connected to it.

Check for 5V with ignition ON at the CPS, Temp sensor or MAP

Were getting to the place where we really need to know if there are codes

This is steps for GXI and should work for yours

 

[ripjmk]

It is possible that both of the caps you have tried are bad. Buy a brand new one to eliminate that possibility.

 

[woodsy01]

It is possible that both of the caps you have tried are bad. Buy a brand new one to eliminate that possibility.

Ok thanks, with spark at plugs does that not eliminate bad dizzy cap ? Just that they take like 3 - 4 weeks to get here in nz and about $400

 

[alldodge]

Ok thanks, with spark at plugs does that not eliminate bad dizzy cap ? Just that they take like 3 - 4 weeks to get here in nz and about $400

Agree with rip and your comment. Would need to know if your getting constant spark on all plugs, not just few. Reason is if you get spark but its not at the correct time (TDC) then it will not burn correctly. Not being able to get one and that price is high.

Another thought, are you sure your gas is good?
Could unplug the fuel pumps and air the motor out. Then crank it with a very small amount of Either, just to see if it will hit.

And you have verified the rotors is turning?

 

[woodsy01]

Agree with rip and your comment. Would need to know if your getting constant spark on all plugs, not just few. Reason is if you get spark but its not at the correct time (TDC) then it will not burn correctly. Not being able to get one and that price is high.

Another thought, are you sure your gas is good?
Could unplug the fuel pumps and air the motor out. Then crank it with a very small amount of Either, just to see if it will hit.

And you have verified the rotors is turning?

I have wondered about gas…. Heading down soon so will try a few things you both mention and report back, thanks again for your help… beautiful weather here and I’m stuck on shore

 

[ripjmk]

Ok thanks, with spark at plugs does that not eliminate bad dizzy cap ? Just that they take like 3 - 4 weeks to get here in nz and about $400

Ouch! No a spark at the plugs does not eliminate the cap. The design of these distributor caps make them prone to cross firing if the distributor is not perfectly positioned (as described in the first attachment ad posted). When not in perfect position the cap tower contacts corrode quickly.