2006 Volvo 5.7 osi-d crank no start

woodsy01

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Need to clarify which relay. The starter relay (boat its a slave relay) energizes the starter solenoid on the starter. If the relay doesn't energize then the starter doesn't spin
It’s says starter relay on the fuse box, about 5 pins from memory. Just wondered if it may be that …. Trying anything at the moment, such beautiful weather it’s doing my head in seeing all the boats out 🙄
 

woodsy01

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With all the plugs out, while it will be a bit hard it should turn. The raw water pump does have a bit of friction. Other then that it might be the outdrive. The OD should turn easy by hand unless there is an issue there
In neutral the drive wouldn’t create friction would it ? Impossible to turn by hand with plugs out and in neutral
 

alldodge

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It’s says starter relay on the fuse box, about 5 pins from memory. Just wondered if it may be that …. Trying anything at the moment, such beautiful weather it’s doing my head in seeing all the boats out 🙄
ok, that is what VP "mostly" calls a start assist relay (Merc slave relay). If it isn't working the motor will not crank. Yours does so that's not the issue

In neutral the drive wouldn’t create friction would it ? Impossible to turn by hand with plugs out and in neutral
Agree, if the drive is in good shape there would be very little resistance to rotating the motor. The crank driven water pump would have much more resistance then the drive.

Not being able to rotate we need to find out is it the drive or the motor. If the motor does not crank fast enough then compression doesn't build to help ignition. Pull the drive and see if it can be turned by hand.
 

woodsy01

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ok, that is what VP "mostly" calls a start assist relay (Merc slave relay). If it isn't working the motor will not crank. Yours does so that's not the issue


Agree, if the drive is in good shape there would be very little resistance to rotating the motor. The crank driven water pump would have much more resistance then the drive.

Not being able to rotate we need to find out is it the drive or the motor. If the motor does not crank fast enough then compression doesn't build to help ignition. Pull the drive and see if it can be turned by hand.
Can I just try turning props in neutral? I have no idea about pulling the drive off the transom and nothing to rest it on if I could
 

woodsy01

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Can I just try turning props in neutral? I have no idea about pulling the drive off the transom and nothing to rest it on if I could
Also, what’s the likelihood of timing being out of it was running ok recently ? Could I have moved dizzy changing cap etc ?
Thanks again !
 

alldodge

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The drive while a bit heavy its a 30 minute job to pull the drive. Rotating the prop will tell you nothing unless the drive is in bad shape. Can rotate the prop and it should feel very smooth and real easy to rotate

There are 6 nuts holding the drive, and clips on the hydraulic trim cylinders at the rear of the drive. The vid shows how one was removed, and while yours can be a bit different, its pretty much the same. No need to build a stand but it does make it easier

 

ripjmk

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What method are you using to attempt to turn it over by hand? Does it turn noticeably slower using the starter motor? I use a socket and wrench on the alternator while applying extra pressure on the tensioner using a length of 2 x 1 lumber with two large nails placed in it so one is below and one is above the tensioner arm. Do it slow so that the compression leaks by in the cylinders (I don't remove the plugs as on mine they are hard to get to).
 

woodsy01

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What method are you using to attempt to turn it over by hand? Does it turn noticeably slower using the starter motor? I use a socket and wrench on the alternator while applying extra pressure on the tensioner using a length of 2 x 1 lumber with two large nails placed in it so one is below and one is above the tensioner arm. Do it slow so that the compression leaks by in the cylinders (I don't remove the plugs as on mine they are hard to get to).
Thought I should check compression …. 50 on 3 and 5 and between 150- 160 on the rest …. Is it game over ? 🤔😕
 

ripjmk

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Thought I should check compression …. 50 on 3 and 5 and between 150- 160 on the rest …. Is it game over ? 🤔😕
I think we need more information:

1. How many engine hours on it?
2. Salt or fresh water use or mix?
3. Last time exhaust manifold and risers were changed?
4. Raw water or antifreeze coolant heat exchanger engine cooling?

A leak down test could give some insight as to where the compression issue is.
 

woodsy01

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I think we need more information:

1. How many engine hours on it?
2. Salt or fresh water use or mix?
3. Last time exhaust manifold and risers were changed?
4. Raw water or antifreeze coolant heat exchanger engine cooling?

A leak down test could give some insight as to where the compression issue is.
Raw water cooled in sat water.
Risers and manifolds replaced about two years ago, originals were pretty mint. I use a salt away rinse system.
600 hours but many of those probably low rpm idling and on the long 12 kt harbour speed restrictive zone.
 

ripjmk

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Raw water cooled in sat water.
Risers and manifolds replaced about two years ago, originals were pretty mint. I use a salt away rinse system.
600 hours but many of those probably low rpm idling and on the long 12 kt harbour speed restrictive zone.
You need to do a leak down test to see where the 3 & 5 cylinders are blowing by. Hopefully it is just sticking exhaust valve stems. You might have to remove the port exhaust manifold to inspect them. If it's the piston rings then as you said game over; overhaul or new engine time.
 

alldodge

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Thought I should check compression …. 50 on 3 and 5 and between 150- 160 on the rest …. Is it game over ? 🤔😕
Leak down test will tell which but being between 3 and 5 I'm thinking head gasket
 

woodsy01

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Th
You need to do a leak down test to see where the 3 & 5 cylinders are blowing by. Hopefully it is just sticking exhaust valve stems. You might have to remove the port exhaust manifold to inspect them. If it's the piston rings then as you said game over; overhaul or new engine time.
 

woodsy01

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Leak down test will tell which but being between 3 and 5 I'm thinking head gasket
Ok thanks.
How do I perform a leak down test ?
Can’t see valves by taking rocker cover off I guess ? Manifolds with risers on we’re incredibly heavy and hard to get on I recall. I’d need new gaskets for manifolds ?
What would I be looking for when looking at the valves with manifold off ?
 

alldodge

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It takes a test gauge set to do it correctly
https://www.amazon.com/OTC-5609-Cylinder-Leakage-Tester/dp/B0030EVL60

Can do a quick not as accurate by bringing the cylinder 3 and then later 5 up to TDC compression stroke. Connect a air chuck to the spark plug hole and put compressed air in, then listen and try to determine if its rings, valves or is the leak going to the other cylinder

Actually not real sure a leak down test can decipher between rings, valves or head gasket if leak is bad enough
 

woodsy01

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It takes a test gauge set to do it correctly
https://www.amazon.com/OTC-5609-Cylinder-Leakage-Tester/dp/B0030EVL60

Can do a quick not as accurate by bringing the cylinder 3 and then later 5 up to TDC compression stroke. Connect a air chuck to the spark plug hole and put compressed air in, then listen and try to determine if its rings, valves or is the leak going to the other cylinder

Actually not real sure a leak down test can decipher between rings, valves or head gasket if leak is bad enough
Do you think I should just pull the head off and inspect…. Feel like nothing to lose now
 

alldodge

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Do you think I should just pull the head off and inspect…. Feel like nothing to lose now
I would if it was mine. Stuck valve, broken rings, head gasket tells me to pull the head.

Two dead cylinders would be an issue with unburned gas out the exhaust, but it isn't the reason it won't start
 

Tail_Gunner

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You need to do a leak down test to see where the 3 & 5 cylinders are blowing by. Hopefully it is just sticking exhaust valve stems. You might have to remove the port exhaust manifold to inspect them. If it's the piston rings then as you said game over; overhaul or new engine time.
Time to pull your valve cover and check for stuck vales...Exhaust vales are your primary suspect

You have a roller cam it should take very little time. If your lucky they can be freed, check your pushrods while your there. Pushrods rolled on a piece of glass..say a mirror. If they wobble.. well that's not good.
 

woodsy01

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Time to pull your valve cover and check for stuck vales...Exhaust vales are your primary suspect

You have a roller cam it should take very little time. If your lucky they can be freed, check your pushrods while your there. Pushrods rolled on a piece of glass..say a mirror. If they wobble.. well that's not good.
Thanks guys, back into it today after a break. Would the low compression, if stuck valve, cause the MAP or other sensors to prevent ( protect ) the motor starting. Also, is it at all possible timing is out given I had it running fine a short time ago and I havent removed the distributor ? I hear of motors "jumping a tooth" ??
 

woodsy01

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Thanks guys, back into it today after a break. Would the low compression, if stuck valve, cause the MAP or other sensors to prevent ( protect ) the motor starting. Also, is it at all possible timing is out given I had it running fine a short time ago and I havent removed the distributor ? I hear of motors "jumping a tooth" ??
PS, the Volvo techs here want to pull the motor to do these tests which seems a major thing to do to test this stuff. $4000.00 !!
 
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