2006 Volvo 5.7 osi-d crank no start

[woodsy01]

Ouch! No a spark at the plugs does not eliminate the cap. The design of these distributor caps make them prone to cross firing if the distributor is not perfectly positioned (as described in the first attachment ad posted). When not in perfect position the cap tower contacts corrode quickly.

Just tried spark tester, getting a 1 inch spark from coil lead and about 1cm from plugs. Going to try to get some fresh fuel through it and also check dizzy position at tdc …. I presume I have to take all plugs out to be able to turn the motor to find tdc ?

 

[alldodge]

For now use the dampner mark to find TDC. To find TDC compression stroke, remove No.1 and put a cork or your thumb over the plug hole. Bump the starter around until cork pops out. This is compression TDC.

If needed rotate motor around slowly 2 more revolutions to bring it back around

 

[ripjmk]

Just to be sure, your plug leads are connected like this, right?

 

[woodsy01]

Just to be sure, your plug leads are connected like this, right?

Will check

 

[woodsy01]

Spark gap should be Blue or White and be able to jump 10mm. Spark should be constant and not intermittent.

The tach showing 300 then there is signal. Not sure if CPS is doing this or the Cam sensor. The Cam sensor is on the Dizzy and may not have a cable connected to it.

Check for 5V with ignition ON at the CPS, Temp sensor or MAP

Were getting to the place where we really need to know if there are codes

This is steps for GXI and should work for yours

Ok …. 5 v at temp sensor connection, 10 at CPS and I cannot get any reading off the 4 pOINTS of MAP connection

 

[alldodge]

Ok …. 5 v at temp sensor connection, 10 at CPS and I cannot get any reading off the 4 pOINTS of MAP connection

Not positive but the cps should be a 12V sensor
Need to look into manual further

 

[woodsy01]

Not positive but the cps should be a 12V sensor

It’s around 10.6 at CPS, is the lack of any voltage at MAP connection an issue ?

 

[alldodge]

It’s around 10.6 at CPS, is the lack of any voltage at MAP connection an issue ?

Map should have a reference voltage. Its probably correct and may be where your ground is coming from

 

[woodsy01]

Map should have a reference voltage. Its probably correct and may be where your ground is coming from

I’m sorry AD I don’t understand what you’re saying there … not the best with electronics

 

[alldodge]

I’m sorry AD I don’t understand what you’re saying there … not the best with electronics

The MAP is like any other sensor, it should be dead by 5V. Not being able to get a voltage may be a harness issue but could also be where the reference ground us taken from

That said I don't see the MAP as being the issue, so for right now pay no attention to it

 

[woodsy01]

The MAP is like any other sensor, it should be dead by 5V. Not being able to get a voltage may be a harness issue but could also be where the reference ground us taken from

That said I don't see the MAP as being the issue, so for right now pay no attention to it

Ok, I think I may have to concede defeat. Have checked firing order, plugs, run new fuel after purging old. I can’t get it scanned for a few weeks as Volvo here are very busy. Pulled IAC valve just now, seems to extend when I put throttle to full but doesn’t retrAct, maybe that occurs when it starts ? I’m a bit ( a lot ) lost now

 

[alldodge]

Don't see it being the IAC. The IAC will not flood the motor with fuel.

Can get a scanner from rinda.com

 

[ripjmk]

MAP sensor terminal "C" should be 5V reference voltage supplied by the ECM connector J2 pin 2. This reference voltage is also supplied to the throttle position sensor. With battery switch off (or battery disconnected) un-plug ECM connector J2 (ECM side with only one securing screw). Check MAP wire connector terminal C for short to ground (green/ orange wire). If it proves shorted un-plug the TPS and re-check. If still shorted look for wiring damage. If not examine TPS and MAP connectors (both sides) for bent pins. Reconnect TPS and MAP one at a time and check wiring loom ECM connector J2 pin 2 for short to ground. If no short found un-plug TPS and MAP reconnect ECM J2 and switch on battery and ignition. Check MAP loom connector terminal C for 5v, if 5v present, connect TPS and check again. If 5v no longer there, un-plug TPS and connect MAP check TPS loom connector terminal A for 5v.
If no fault is found the ECM is suspect.

 

[woodsy01]

Don't see it being the IAC. The IAC will not flood the motor with fuel.

Can get a scanner from rinda.com

Problem is in NZ it takes a month to get here. I’m thinking timing maybe but I can’t get the motor to stop at TDC. Took plugs out but can’t turn motor…. Maybe I need to take water pump off the crankshaft first ?

 

[ripjmk]

Problem is in NZ it takes a month to get here. I’m thinking timing maybe but I can’t get the motor to stop at TDC. Took plugs out but can’t turn motor…. Maybe I need to take water pump off the crankshaft first ?

Without a scanner it's bit like fighting with one hand tied behind your back, but there could be some information you can get from the ECU. It would help if you could answer the following questions:
1. Does your installation have a "CEL" (check engine light) or "MFI" (multifunction indicator)? Should be lit at ignition on and out when running.
2. Does the engine alarm beep twice when the ignition is switched on? this is the ECU self check (two beeps is good).
3. Does your ECU Diagnostic connector (clipped to inboard side of stb. exhaust riser) have 6 or 10 wires to it?

I sent you a PM to see if you have a need for a diagnostic manual.

 

[alldodge]

Problem is in NZ it takes a month to get here. I’m thinking timing maybe but I can’t get the motor to stop at TDC. Took plugs out but can’t turn motor…. Maybe I need to take water pump off the crankshaft first ?

With all the plugs out, while it will be a bit hard it should turn. The raw water pump does have a bit of friction. Other then that it might be the outdrive. The OD should turn easy by hand unless there is an issue there

 

[woodsy01]

Without a scanner it's bit like fighting with one hand tied behind your back, but there could be some information you can get from the ECU. It would help if you could answer the following questions:
1. Does your installation have a "CEL" (check engine light) or "MFI" (multifunction indicator)? Should be lit at ignition on and out when running.
2. Does the engine alarm beep twice when the ignition is switched on? this is the ECU self check (two beeps is good).
3. Does your ECU Diagnostic connector (clipped to inboard side of stb. exhaust riser) have 6 or 10 wires to it?

I sent you a PM to see if you have a need for a diagnostic manual.

No engine/ignition lights anywhere on dash
Getting two beeps with key on
10 point plug for diagnostic connector and yes, sits by SB riser

Thanks for email too

 

[ripjmk]

No engine/ignition lights anywhere on dash
Getting two beeps with key on
10 point plug for diagnostic connector and yes, sits by SB riser

Thanks for email too

Some engines have 6 wires going to the diagnostic10 pin plug and some have 10 wires going to the 10 pin plug, how many wires does yours have?

 

[woodsy01]

With all the plugs out, while it will be a bit hard it should turn. The raw water pump does have a bit of friction. Other then that it might be the outdrive. The OD should turn easy by hand unless there is an issue there

Should I have any ohm reading on my starter relay ? I can’t seem to get a replacement here.
When I take starter relay out of my chev Ls1 engine at home I have similar crank no start symptoms…. Just a thought

 

[alldodge]

Should I have any ohm reading on my starter relay ? I can’t seem to get a replacement here.
When I take starter relay out of my chev Ls1 engine at home I have similar crank no start symptoms…. Just a thought

Need to clarify which relay. The starter relay (boat its a slave relay) energizes the starter solenoid on the starter. If the relay doesn't energize then the starter doesn't spin