2006 Volvo 5.7 osi-d crank no start

[alldodge]

Thanks guys, back into it today after a break. Would the low compression, if stuck valve, cause the MAP or other sensors to prevent ( protect ) the motor starting. Also, is it at all possible timing is out given I had it running fine a short time ago and I havent removed the distributor ? I hear of motors "jumping a tooth" ??

Two dead cylinders would be an issue with unburned gas out the exhaust, but it isn't the reason it won't start. There is something else going on

PS, the Volvo techs here want to pull the motor to do these tests which seems a major thing to do to test this stuff. $4000.00 !!

It just makes it easier, and if I was willing to spend 4K to find out what's wrong, might as well get someone to rebuild with guarantee cost of a running motor.

Maybe carb motor drop in

 

[woodsy01]

Two dead cylinders would be an issue with unburned gas out the exhaust, but it isn't the reason it won't start. There is something else going on



It just makes it easier, and if I was willing to spend 4K to find out what's wrong, might as well get someone to rebuild with guarantee cost of a running motor.

Maybe carb motor drop in

and the "jumped tooth" timing scenario AD what do you think ?

 

[alldodge]

and the "jumped tooth" timing scenario AD what do you think ?

Maybe, if it has the old nylon covered cam gear, otherwise I don't think so

 

[Tail_Gunner]

How to Free a Stuck Exhaust Valve

Between the stem of an exhaust valve and its guide, is very little tolerance. The valve can have difficulty opening and closing if sludge gets between the two. Mechanics call this "morning sickness" because it's usually at its worse in the morning when the engine is cold, and improves as the...

itstillruns.com

Personally I like a 1x1 block of wood and a 2lb hammer. Heavy taps and never allow the hammer to tap anything that is metal... If your somewhat lucky they will break loose.

But first pull the pushrods and check for any distortions...If there bent Ohh well. Been there done that.

 

[woodsy01]

How to Free a Stuck Exhaust Valve

Between the stem of an exhaust valve and its guide, is very little tolerance. The valve can have difficulty opening and closing if sludge gets between the two. Mechanics call this "morning sickness" because it's usually at its worse in the morning when the engine is cold, and improves as the...

itstillruns.com

Personally I like a 1x1 block of wood and a 2lb hammer. Heavy taps and never allow the hammer to tap anything that is metal... If your somewhat lucky they will break loose.

But first pull the pushrods and check for any distortions...If there bent Ohh well. Been there done that.

would that guide being stuck affect compression readings ? trying to understand why 3 and 5 are low, could be as AD suggested and a head gasket however pressure came up a bit when I put oil in, but I probably put too much oil in ie a tablespoon in each cylinder.

 

[Tail_Gunner]

would that guide being stuck affect compression readings ? trying to understand why 3 and 5 are low, could be as AD suggested and a head gasket however pressure came up a bit when I put oil in, but I probably put too much oil in ie a tablespoon in each cylinder.

Don't over think this, what has happened is over its done.

Alldodge is quite correct in his assumptions head gaskets a highly suspect just as valves are.

You stated this engine was a hard start when hot, that is not a good thing. The first thing that comes to mind is the timing chain did jump, over advancing the timing perhaps? That will cause the starter to bind during a hot start


Now pulling the valve covers and checking for stuck valves is a short cut. If they are stuck open..you can breath a bit. If you can jar them loose relatively easy breath even deeper.

Next stop measure the compression if it's back up to say 135 you may have gotten lucky.

If they are not stuck well it's time to find a new engine I believe. Bad timing chain? Cracked head? Blown head gasket? It could any one of those issue's

Ive been in your shoes several times, one time I got lucky..

 

[woodsy01]

Don't over think this, what has happened is over its done.

Alldodge is quite correct in his assumptions head gaskets a highly suspect just as valves are.

You stated this engine was a hard start when hot, that is not a good thing. The first thing that comes to mind is the timing chain did jump, over advancing the timing perhaps? That will cause the starter to bind during a hot start


Now pulling the valve covers and checking for stuck valves is a short cut. If they are stuck open..you can breath a bit. If you can jar them loose relatively easy breath even deeper.

Next stop measure the compression if it's back up to say 135 you may have gotten lucky.

If they are not stuck well it's time to find a new engine I believe. Bad timing chain? Cracked head? Blown head gasket? It could any one of those issue's

Ive been in your shoes several times, one time I got lucky..

well guys, thought I'd buy a new distributor to rule it out, the other I tried was second hand but supposed to be ok. fired up first pop and running ok it seems, didnt go out on the water this evening. I'll have to investigate the low compression I guess but I'm a bit happier today. Thank you all for your input, it is appreciated.

 

[QBhoy]

well guys, thought I'd buy a new distributor to rule it out, the other I tried was second hand but supposed to be ok. fired up first pop and running ok it seems, didnt go out on the water this evening. I'll have to investigate the low compression I guess but I'm a bit happier today. Thank you all for your input, it is appreciated.

Very common story these days. I always go on about it, as most will know.
As for the compression…first thoughts would be that being next to each other…head gasket would be suspect. Small tiny chance…tiny…that you have low compression as a result of fuel washing down the cylinders. Not so sure though.

 

[woodsy01]

Very common story these days. I always go on about it, as most will know.
As for the compression…first thoughts would be that being next to each other…head gasket would be suspect. Small tiny chance…tiny…that you have low compression as a result of fuel washing down the cylinders. Not so sure though.

If a head gasket would I not get steam from exhaust when running on a cradle or is it not like a car given water cooled exhaust ? You don’t think a stuck valve maybe ? Def no smoke from exhaust on start or when running. Seems to be running about 95% right I feel

 

[ripjmk]

No, on a marine IO exhaust, steam is not an indication of head gasket failure. You changed the manifolds and risers two years ago, did you use OEM gaskets? I ask as a weeping riser gasket can cause moisture in the exhaust manifold and lead to valve stem rusting during lay up periods. This can cause exhaust valves sticking, more so on the middle cylinders. I'd test the boat on the water and if all seems good put 20 hours on it and redo the compression test. And in any case, at the end of the season pull and replace the risers and maybe the manifolds to replace the gaskets and machine the mating surfaces if necessary.

 

[QBhoy]

If a head gasket would I not get steam from exhaust when running on a cradle or is it not like a car given water cooled exhaust ? You don’t think a stuck valve maybe ? Def no smoke from exhaust on start or when running. Seems to be running about 95% right I feel

Just a bit of a coincidence that your two low cylinders are next to each other.

 

[woodsy01]

No, on a marine IO exhaust, steam is not an indication of head gasket failure. You changed the manifolds and risers two years ago, did you use OEM gaskets? I ask as a weeping riser gasket can cause moisture in the exhaust manifold and lead to valve stem rusting during lay up periods. This can cause exhaust valves sticking, more so on the middle cylinders. I'd test the boat on the water and if all seems good put 20 hours on it and redo the compression test. And in any case, at the end of the season pull and replace the risers and maybe the manifolds to replace the gaskets and machine the mating surfaces if necessary.

Yes, used OEM risers manifolds and gaskets and did by the book with torque etc. got 12 yrs off last set And relatively mint when I pulled them, the neutrasalt flush must work ok. It’s our summer now so will do as you suggest. Is there much point in adding an engine flush or similar product to loosed things up ? Thanks

 

[ripjmk]

Yes, used OEM risers manifolds and gaskets and did by the book with torque etc. got 12 yrs off last set And relatively mint when I pulled them, the neutrasalt flush must work ok. It’s our summer now so will do as you suggest. Is there much point in adding an engine flush or similar product to loosed things up ? Thanks

I don't think there would be any benefit to adding anything, but that just my feeling, others here might have a different opinion. Has anyone had good results from engine flush additives?

 

[woodsy01]

I don't think there would be any benefit to adding anything, but that just my feeling, others here might have a different opinion. Has anyone had good results from engine flush additives?

I don't think there would be any benefit to adding anything, but that just my feeling, others here might have a different opinion. Has anyone had good results from engine flush additives?

Hi again guys, so I

I don't think there would be any benefit to adding anything, but that just my feeling, others here might have a different opinion. Has anyone had good results from engine flush additives?

hi guys… so I’m running but not good under load. Trying to take head off to inspect gasket but cannot seem to get intake manifold off, reluctant to hammer it or poke screwdriver between manifold and block. Have taken the 8 bolts out, thermostat housing etc off but seems impossible to budge…. Any suggestions? Does distributor hold it on at all ? Thank you !

 

[woodsy01]

Hi again guys, so I

hi guys… so I’m running but not good under load. Trying to take head off to inspect gasket but cannot seem to get intake manifold off, reluctant to hammer it or poke screwdriver between manifold and block. Have taken the 8 bolts out, thermostat housing etc off but seems impossible to budge…. Any suggestions? Does distributor hold it on at all ? Thank you !

Also, can throttle body be left on while doing this or do those bolts also hold main intake on ?

 

[Scott06]

Hi again guys, so I

hi guys… so I’m running but not good under load. Trying to take head off to inspect gasket but cannot seem to get intake manifold off, reluctant to hammer it or poke screwdriver between manifold and block. Have taken the 8 bolts out, thermostat housing etc off but seems impossible to budge…. Any suggestions? Does distributor hold it on at all ? Thank you !

Yes distributor needs to come out first, then usually some type of pry bar on the ends, they are just an oil sealing face with rtv Not a gasketed surface like between manifold and head

throttle body can stay on

 

[woodsy01]

Yes distributor needs to come out first, then usually some type of pry bar on the ends, they are just an oil sealing face with rtv Not a gasketed surface like between manifold and head

throttle body can stay on

Oh, I thought there was two gaskets and then rtv on the front and back of block walks ? I have ordered the gasket set. So having left distributor in would prevent intake manifold coming off ? Thanks

 

[Lou C]

When I replaced the cyl heads on mine getting the manifold off was not easy. Yes the distributor must come out first. To make the re install of the distributor easy set the engine at TDC of the compression stroke for # 1 cylinder. On mine I tried prying on the ‘stat housing but that didn’t get it off. I took 2 large screwdrivers and covered the tips with electrical tape so as not to mar the sealing surface between the manifold and front & rear block walls. That got it. I think certain gaskets get baked on and can give you hell. I like the Fel-Pro gasket sets.

 

[woodsy01]

When I replaced the cyl heads on mine getting the manifold off was not easy. Yes the distributor must come out first. To make the re install of the distributor easy set the engine at TDC of the compression stroke for # 1 cylinder. On mine I tried prying on the ‘stat housing but that didn’t get it off. I took 2 large screwdrivers and covered the tips with electrical tape so as not to mar the sealing surface between the manifold and front & rear block walls. That got it. I think certain gaskets get baked on and can give you hell. I like the Fel-Pro gasket sets.

Thanks for that advice. I have ordered fel pro set. Was yours a blown head gasket ? I’m hoping that’s my problem rather than piston hole

 

[Lou C]

Mine was both head gaskets blown right next to a water passage which would allow water to leak into the front 2 cyls as the engine cooled off. Compression was normal but water in #2 cyl and just a mist of water in #1. Probably caused by an overheat a few years before.
A few tips on this job:
clean clean clean the cyl head bolt holes in the head, use a gun cleaning brush and solvent and compressed air, then a thread chaser to clean the threads, so your head bolts get proper torque, also make sure the cyl head bolts thread all the way in before installing the heads. Don't want a nasty surprise when you have most of the bolts in.
if the cyl head bolts are very rusty consider replacing them, I used ARP head bolts
clean clean clean the deck surface of the block, it must be super clean, and flat and level (less than .003" variation) for the new head gaskets to seal.
check the mating surface for the intake manifold too, esp for the water passages at the front, these can get pitted from corrosion.
I did this back in 2017 and its still running well now.
These engines are simple to take apart, and the parts are cheap. I kept the roller lifters in their respective positions, same with the pushrods and rocker arms. Keep the parts organized and clean.