1996 Century Boats 1800 Center Console Refit and Modernization

zool

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So I got the timing advance synced and now she runs about 4500 rpm. I took it for a 20 mile run at all speeds and she ran fine. When i got back to the dock it would intermitantly stall when shifting. Later on she idled smooth again. I picked the brain of the Yamaha tech down the road and he suggested I start using Yamaha ring free when fueling, and stabilizer also. He said if I bring it in, they will automatically remove and service the carbs as a 1st measure, even tho I just did it. Im gonna try the additives 1st because of the ethenal in the fuel here. Im reluctant to bring it in bacause i dont want to lose it for weeks lol, its very usable right now.

heres the admiral enjoying a white claw and cruise.

View attachment 20220717_125941_42780670553438.mp4
 

zool

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So the CC is officially out of the water and winterized. Since my 1 wheel dr van sucks at ramp retrieval, I opted to just drop the rig off in a slip at the marina, where they pulled it, set it on my trailer, washed the bottom, and winterized the engine. Its ready for me to pick it up and tow it home. A few hundred bux was money well spent not having to deal with that.
It should be back in my shop by weekend for some more work. I have to fix the seals on the trim/tilt, change the sending unit on the tank, install a new washdown/baitwell pump, put the decal son the cowling, and I plan to add a battery charger/power interface for when I slip it in the salt next season. Im also contemplating pulling the 85hp yammie and replacing it with a 115hp if I can find a deal on one this winter.
 

zool

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So I havent really messed with any of the boats since before Thanksgiving, Ive just been too busy at work, and doing what i needed to do to finalize the sale of the lake cottage. So in order to not become a couch potato, I guess its time to start the whack a mole process of boat needs.

I have only a few more glassing projects on the Checkmate, but its way too cold here for that, even inside. The seat bases have to be fabricated and glassed in, so I dont want to risk it when landing on my azz will be the result of a bad lam.

1st item i'm thinking of tackling is rebuilding the trim cylinders on the Century. I've never done it before, but I saw a few tutorials and it looks pretty straight forward, just replacing O rings and a few seals. The trim worked when i started this project, but because it sat so long, Im sure I blew out the old seals after a few uses. The trim motor and control still works fine, just doesn't hold pressure.

I need to order a few sizes of pin wrench spanners and the kit. I can still do that from the couch so I get to procrastinate some more lol.

These are the tools

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2 sizes are needed. There are cheaper versions on amazon, but i just know thay will break if the cylinder caps are tight.

I got to get the boat back in the barn this week, havnt tried folding down the t'top with the radar dome and e box on it, but it should be ok with some help.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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the ones on amazon and the one above are made in the same chinesium factory. I went with the amazon ones myself.
 

zool

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The ones on Amazon I looked at were black, adjustable, but yeah, im sure ur right. That pic above is from amazon. The price was comparable on their website, with free shipping. Will be just another barely used tool in my box.

Scott, how was the rebuild of the cylinders? Mine are over 25 years old, mostly in salt water, and never serviced.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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The ones on Amazon I looked at were black, adjustable, but yeah, im sure ur right. That pic above is from amazon. The price was comparable on their website, with free shipping. Will be just another barely used tool in my box.

Scott, how was the rebuild of the cylinders? Mine are over 25 years old, mostly in salt water, and never serviced.
Mine were almost 35 years old. Rebuild want well. However I did damage the piston seal on one cylinder by smacking in the rod/piston

Take your time
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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Gotya, as long as the caps come off without too much of a fight, I figure just do one at a time.
They are plumbed together. so you will loose oil.

make sure to prop the drive up.
 

zool

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Yeah, they are tied together. I changed the fluid in the spring, before launch, but it didnt help. So I set the screw at manual tilt, and just lifted it while mooring or beaching.

That was fine in the deep lake, had 14 feet at the dock. Now that ill be using it in the back bays, Getting it up and running is crucial
 

zool

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I ordered the rebuild kit, just one of the many online all around the same prices, give or take. Still waiting on that and the tools.

While I have it on the shop, I figure ill tackle the battery management and lack of 120v dock charging. I ordered a Blue Seas add a battery kit, which comes with the Charger, Combine switch, status gauge, and relay.

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I also ordered a Noco GCP2 AC port plug receptacle with 2 way splitter. With this I will be able to maintain the batteries at the dock, and home in the winter. Ill probably mount the charger under the console, and the Noco by the switch on the console. The gauge will go on the dash. I basically just threw the new batteries in with the old 2 way switch, and ran it this past season, but it was less than optimal.

I was half planning on selling this rig, and getting a 23 CC or so, so I could get offshore with some safety. Now we think we're just gonna sell the SR 330 and get a sportfish boat. We've already been actively driving hours at a time to find something affordable in the tough 31-35 foot FB range.

Given that, It looks like I will be running this little rig for a good while, so the upgrades will continue.

Im seriously thinking of removing the bow rail, gel coating in the holes, or adding rod/cup holders when the baseplates were. Then adding a bow mounted trolling motor with Ipilot and remote. Spotloc would be sweet, but out of my budget. The bow motor will help in the backbay flats, and getting in and out of tidepools.

Ill update as I go..
 

zool

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Aug 19, 2012
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So after a bit of back and forth, I finally have both wrenches, the seal kit and fluid for the trim rebuild. I also have the battery management kit.

When I received the package from marine tech, there was only one wrench in the fed ex envelope. I contacted marine tech and they said they sent both in one envelope and sorry for my loss. I responded that I received the fed ex envelope sealed with one unit in it, so no one tampered with it in transit. They ultimately just sent me the 2nd wrench, so all is good now.

Im now trying to determine where i can put one 24v DC battery, or 2 12v deep cycles for the bow mounted trolling motor. I noticed this season that the additional weight of the t-top changed the way the boat sits on water, enough that the scuppers dont drain as well as they did, and allow water to flow towards the bow. It was always a little like that given the 250lb 85hp vs the max hp of 115hp at 356lbs, but I fear batteries in the bow would be problematic. Im gonna see if I can make enough room under the console for a 24v battery and run a quick disconnect to the anchor locker area.
 

zool

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Aug 19, 2012
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Hey gang, I know it's been a while, I made the mistake of telling the Admiral of some chest pain. All is well, but I was turned into a lab rat for a while.

I havnt worked on the boats lately, but I'm ready again.

I'm under contract with a sportfish, and getting the sea ray ready for sale, which has been time consuming.

I have the parts for the Century, and the Checkmate, so I hope to re-start those threads.

For now, gonna cruise thru u guys threads and see what I missed.
 

zool

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Aug 19, 2012
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Glad to hear you're doing good Pappy!
Thanks Kevin and Ted, i'm fine, went thru all the hoops though, at least what they could charge my insurance for :).

I'm planning on doing some of the repairs on the CC this weekend, I rented a slip for it down the shore, so I can put it back in soon.
 
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