1991 120 hp Force/Chrysler No Spark at amy cylinder, please help.

Jiggz

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The pic you posted is a little distant and I can only make it out as a spline shaft seal. However, if there are ball bearings that also fell, it could be from the drive shaft bearing (#85) from the link provided and the shaft seal like could actually be a bearing cup (#84) instead.
 

dan2744

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Did you watch that last video I posted? It seems very sloppy where the lower drive shaft connects. I think the bearings fell out of there.
 

Jiggz

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When I click on the u-tube video link you provided, it keeps telling me to create a channel to upload a video. but I a not uploading a video I just want to watch. What gives?
 

dan2744

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I'm not sure, it's probably just google trying to sign up another customer. I'll try to see if I can make it public.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yHjCYAmaOEY. I hope this one works. I think there is a bearing in the u-joint housing that has broke into pieces. The boat will not turn over, when I hit the key the steering moves but the boat motor seems binded up. I think there are bearings in there binding up the drive shaft. I have a picture of one of the bearings.
 

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Jiggz

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That's probably item #23 on the link below. You obviously need to dismount the entire u-joint housing and inspect it. And the cup that fell of earlier with the balls is probably the bearing seal (#37) on the lower u-joint. ON the other hand, there is also a seal for the water tube (#10) connection for the impeller.
 

dan2744

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How do I take those pins out on the housing? Are they pivot pins? It looks like it may be hard to get off.
 

dan2744

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I finally got the housing off to find a bunch of loose bearings all over the place. I think I got lucky and the bearings do not seem to have done any damage. Now all that I need to do is pay the million dollars for the new bearing and then install. If this does not finally get me on the water I am going to push this boat off of a cliff. I just have to decide if i'm gonna be in the boat or not when it falls over that cliff. Lol
 

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Jiggz

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Most bearings like the one in the pic are shrunk fit into the shaft. Meaning you have to heat the bearing and slide it in to the shaft and when it cools down it will shrink tight to the shaft. To remove it after it has disintegrated, you will need bearing separator in conjunction with a bearing puller. Use a lot penetrating oil before starting the pulling. In addition, you can also use heat from a torch while pulling. Hopefully it is not frozen to the shaft, otherwise as a last resort you will need a grinder with a metal cutting wheel to make two slices opposite each side. But do not cut all the way thru instead just enough to break it into two pieces using a hammer and a chisel. Another option is to use a hydraulic press in conjunction with the bearing separator. If you do not have the tools or equipment to do this, you can take the unit to a machine shop and they can press it out for you on both the outer and inner race of the bearing. The cost shouldn't be as much as buying all the equipment for taking it off.

As for the bearing outer race, usually a chisel or flat face punch and a hammer will push it out. Again a lot of penetrating oil is recommended for an overnight soak. At this point while you have the entire unit out, every bearing in the unit should be replaced including those on the U-joints.
 

dan2744

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A bunch of roller bearings just fell out of the coupler area along with a rubber seal, #33 in the previous diagram, I have no idea where needle bearings came from, that just baffles my mind.
 

dan2744

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The roller bearings that I found are the exact same size as the roller bearings on the connecting rods, I am guessing that when the guy before me threw a rod, they somehow got into there
 

Jiggz

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The bearings on the u-joint itself are roller bearings. There's just no way conn rod bearings will end up at the U-joint housing unless they went through the intake ports, cylinders and then to exhaust.
 
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dan2744

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I think thats what they did, the u-joint bearings itself are still intact I think. What bearing would have went on the u-joint to cause that? They are the exact same size as conrod bearings, its crazy.
 

Jiggz

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This thing of yours is getting crazier by the day . . . LOL Now obviously you will need to inspect the conn rod to make sure none is actually damaged that is causing the lock up! That means removing both carbs and intake adapters and reed blocks to take a look at them. With the U-joint now dismounted does the flywheel rotate freely (remove spark plugs of course) with no play and sound of worn out bearings or conn rod. If not maybe those were from the previous rod problem, hopefully.
 

dan2744

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Everything is fine on my end, the previous owner had blown a rod through the block and there were marks on the head from the roller bearings. I guess those bearings exhausted out and got in there via that route. I have the paper work from the marina who had redone the whole lower unit in 2012 and it was 850.00 in parts and labor. They did not use gaskets when replacing the impeller which is weird to me. Either they know something i don't, or they did not feel like waiting on the gaskets and installed it without gaskets. I think I'm gonna be fine once I get the bearing installed. I just don't know how much boating i am going to get in this summer. Michigan has a pretty short boating season. Also I really appreciate the help from you jiggz, you have helped a lot.
 

Jiggz

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You're welcome. Here in the NW Pacific, boating season is only about 3 months. But there is absolutely no reason not to do the repairs correctly. Do it right the first time and you'll have the rest of the time enjoying it right! The thread has gotten too long. Maybe it's time to start another thread.
 

dan2744

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Outer bearing will not budge, it's not even trying to come out. I hate this.
 

Jiggz

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Are you talking about the outer race which is stuck inside the housing itself or the inner race which is stuck on the u-joint shaft?
 

dan2744

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The outer race that is stuck in the housing, the inner race came off easily.
 
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