1990 Bayliner 2651 resto

kcassells

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Oct 16, 2012
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So Denial ain't just a river.
You have a project boat/Total rehab. Guys do it all the time here on the website.
Lordy....please show me some good wood, nope, nope and nope.
That's how it starts and then you just get over it and build a better, safer boat.
Post pics, take measurements and take more measurements and pics.
 

tpenfield

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Jul 18, 2011
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I recall seeing a thread a while back about a guy who did a piecemeal restoration of his boat, cutting out only the worst of the issues and leaving what looked to be 'OK' in the hull.

A few years later he was back at it with the wrecking saw, redoing his work because the OK stuff caught up with the prior rot.
 

buxmj

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Jun 9, 2018
Messages
294
I can give you my .02, first of all I have an outboard so others will have suggestions with their IO motor mount builds. As for cutting the tops off and replacing the core I think you will be better off cutting it all out and reglassing from the hull. As for the core material you can use what you stated but also could use white oak, cypress or mahogany for the motor mounts, some of that could get expensive if you use it for stringers, but it all will be cheaper than coosa. Do not use red oak and if you go with coosa remember it is glass so use PPE when cutting and shaping it. Good luck and take lots of pics to help down the road when it starts going back together.
 

Drivewayboater2

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Aug 21, 2019
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Lol…Agreed… been going through all threads. Learning tons on this forum. Couldn’t do it without the knowledge of those here. It’s game on! No shortcuts taken. I keep digging out the rot. Just one step at a time. Transom to motor mount to bulkhead behind fuel tank. Once tank is out I’ll have a better look at the forward stringers.
 

Drivewayboater2

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Aug 21, 2019
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Todays update. Happy Labor Day to all!
demo on the motor mount stringers went well. Well….. went well since they were both close to rotted. Pics show the decapitation of starboard and port side motor mounts. Piece by piece…. so glad I took the initiative to dig in. They were toast.
 

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Baylinerchuck

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Joined
Jul 29, 2016
Messages
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I’m certain you’ll find the same as you look closer at the stringers. Also as you move into the fuel tank area which is specifically prone to rot due to condensation.
 

Drivewayboater2

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Aug 21, 2019
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334
Agreed Chuck! The bulkhead behind the fuel tank is dry but not good wood. It will come out and be replaced. Can’t wait to see what the fuel tank looks like… let alone the stringers along side it. Btw forward of the fuel tank( another compromising area) looks to be good. PO didn’t really use the shower it seams. Like I said previously “game on“ no short cuts.
appreciate your input ( and others ) advice always. One day at a time
 

Baylinerchuck

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Jul 29, 2016
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Agreed Chuck! The bulkhead behind the fuel tank is dry but not good wood. It will come out and be replaced. Can’t wait to see what the fuel tank looks like… let alone the stringers along side it. Btw forward of the fuel tank( another compromising area) looks to be good. PO didn’t really use the shower it seams. Like I said previously “game on“ no short cuts.
appreciate your input ( and others ) advice always. One day at a time
Yep, a little at a time. It’s all you can do.
 

Drivewayboater2

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Aug 21, 2019
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Update 9-10
Dug a little further in removing bilge hose, fuel vent tube , fuel hose, holding tank (with 3 inches of leftover crap still in tank from PO 🤮), macerator pump and capped off the fuel tank inlets. Moved all electrical out of the way. I also removed the steering actuator. Hope to rebuild that with new seals. Asked for guidance in the steering/ controls area of the forum.

Luckily Im not a big guy. Don’t know how they got all these things in there. You gotta be a contortionist to get things out.

Id like to scrub and clean the entire engine bay before more demo of the forward bulkhead behind fuel tank. Any tips? Simple green? Elbow grease and rinse? I realize it’s gonna get another and another cleaning after much grinding it’s just nasty.
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tpenfield

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You may want to get an idea of how long (front-to-back) the fuel tank is in order to judge if the tank will come out via the engine bay by pulling it back once the bulkhead is cut.

Worst case is having to cut away part of the aft berth base & bulkhead to gain the clearance needed.
 

Drivewayboater2

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Aug 21, 2019
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Yep… already did. It won’t come out through the engine compartment. it will be taken out through aft cabin.
 

todhunter

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Sep 15, 2020
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Yeah, for initial cleaning I'd just use a kitchen surface cleaner and some rags or paper towels. Maybe some dish soap and water on the greasy spots.
 

Drivewayboater2

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Aug 21, 2019
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334
Yep the purple stuff will be used for sure.
Update 9-18
was finally able to get some exterior grade plywood for the transom. seems the big box stores aren't carrying much stock these days. Also able to purchase some linear Doug fur for the motor mount stringers.
made a template for the transom. Cut two pieces. Used PL since this won’t be getting glassed in for some time. Followed step by step of those that have done it before. Holes drilled for coverage. Screwed pieces together. guess I went over on the amount. It kept squeezing out of the relief holes like nobodies business. At least it’s another step forward. Thanks for those that have done this before and posted step by step directions. it almost seems like I know what I’m doing. F3C05B24-96A9-4E8F-B323-73C1839B3EFA.jpegF270D36E-66A3-463A-9964-AB2A296CD627.jpegE23FE4B0-E064-4CB2-8900-D54EB39D3C31.jpeg6CA2EEEE-7155-4B0A-BB90-0529472E959E.jpeg9AC245A9-0CB1-4CFA-89EA-803DCA74827A.jpeg23E541D6-0DBF-43E6-BD32-6F2E56539333.jpeg899FEC81-6954-4268-B0A5-464BEA9B726B.jpeg
 

Drivewayboater2

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Update 9-25
the grinding continues… who knew that snow angles can be seen in Sept.

I see now why those that have done it previously hate the job… progress slow but sure 882818EB-BF60-44FA-A88C-B8CB83CE2CBF.jpeg9D234700-0263-414B-A312-C473D9D17F6D.jpegA5BB5B5F-407D-4DBB-AD78-7411D33BB24A.jpeg05F9AB00-1620-475C-A222-830F7AD873A0.jpeg
 

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