1989 Johnson 20HP

northwoodslivin

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Re: 1989 Johnson 20HP "So I went and checked it out and..."

Re: 1989 Johnson 20HP "So I went and checked it out and..."

apparently the "CE" portion identifies it as a 1989 model.

but the closest model on the shopevinrude.com site i could find is:

TJ20CR CEM

good luck

bob

Ya he probably messed up and the A was an R :). Thanks alot guys, I ended up figuring this out for myself in the files in the "top secret file" :p
 

northwoodslivin

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Re: 1989 Johnson 20HP "So I went and checked it out and..."

Re: 1989 Johnson 20HP "So I went and checked it out and..."

yep, it will definitely appreciate in value as the season starts.


Yes, you need to remove the lower leg to change the impeller, it's an easy job. lots of info on this site on how to do it.


With fresh gas and plugs it should run fine after it warms up.




Welcome fellow canuck..pick up a compression tester from canadian tire..less than 50 bucks usually. Might save you an 800 dollar mistake!:)



hmm..I dunno. It is normal for 2-strokes to get dirty legs from the exaust but not really on the powerhead. It could be from the foggin oil when it was last winterized but i'm not sure. Definitely should not have oil dripping down anywhere under the cowl.

I've never used seafoam but other's here swear by it.

This is of concern to me so I thought I would ask the question, but no, there was not any sign of leakings from the powerhead down the lower unit, motor looks nice and dry and tight. It's just a film that is on the engine block from time with dirt particals in it or what not. Hmm, well he is going to be at my place at 1pm tomorrow to bring it here to fire up etc, so hmm As you can see I am just learning with outboards here :cool: Had lots of dirt bikes in my years and knew how to fix em, but new to outboards mainly :) new "to me" boat which other then a 12ft/3hp johnson "which also had a residue on it "1964 3hp seahorse twin" the come to think of it, got that used as well and it ran fine, but come to think of it the block had this residue on it as well but thought nothing of it for what I got the boat and motor for at the time :p" is all I have owned boat wise in my life ;)
 

northwoodslivin

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Re: 1989 Johnson 20HP "So I went and checked it out and..."

Re: 1989 Johnson 20HP "So I went and checked it out and..."

Going to ask my neighbour tomorrow he he has a compression tester, he should, he's a mechanic and fixes all sorts of things ;) What should he good100-110 on both cylinders?
 

northwoodslivin

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Re: 1989 Johnson 20HP "So I went and checked it out and..."

Re: 1989 Johnson 20HP "So I went and checked it out and..."

Going to ask my neighbour tomorrow if he has a compression tester, he should, he's a mechanic and fixes all sorts of things ;) What should be good100-110 on both cylinders?
 

trendsetter240

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Re: 1989 Johnson 20HP "So I went and checked it out and..."

Re: 1989 Johnson 20HP "So I went and checked it out and..."

Going to ask my neighbour tomorrow if he has a compression tester, he should, he's a mechanic and fixes all sorts of things ;) What should be good100-110 on both cylinders?


If it is a pull start then compression readings are lower than electric start. should be above 70psi and within 10% on each cylinder.
 

northwoodslivin

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Re: 1989 Johnson 20HP "So I went and checked it out and..."

Re: 1989 Johnson 20HP "So I went and checked it out and..."

Alright thanks :)
 

jbjennings

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Re: 1989 Johnson 20HP "So I went and checked it out and..."

Re: 1989 Johnson 20HP "So I went and checked it out and..."

A film of oil under the cowl is no biggie at all. Fuel/oil will run out of the carb if you prime it too much or for a million other reasons.
Just make sure the compression on each cylinder is very close, preferably within 5 psi of the other. Within 10% is o.k., but I usually find a good motor is much closer than that. My '99 30hp johnson has 125psi on both cylinders, my '57 18hp has that on both cylinders as well. If yours is 100psi on both, don't freak out, as those gauges are known to be inaccurate pretty often. The recoil spring probably just needs a little lube from sitting for so long. Changing the impeller is not bad at all, just ask how before you do it or search some old threads on how to remove the lower unit properly. Basic tools is all you'll need. DO IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! A motor sitting for 4 yrs. will almost surely have a "set" impeller. (the rubber hardens and makes the blades less flexible.)
If it were me, I'd be MORE interested in what the lower unit oil looked like after a good run in the barrel for a few minutes. If it is milky or you find water in there, you might consider passing on the motor at that price, since the lower unit seals are bad and although the parts are cheap, the labor to fix them isn't. If it's been sitting with water in it, the bearings could be shot. Also, the dent you mentioned in the lower unit is interesting as well.
Good luck,
JBJ
 

northwoodslivin

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Re: 1989 Johnson 20HP "So I went and checked it out and..."

Re: 1989 Johnson 20HP "So I went and checked it out and..."

A film of oil under the cowl is no biggie at all. Fuel/oil will run out of the carb if you prime it too much or for a million other reasons.
Just make sure the compression on each cylinder is very close, preferably within 5 psi of the other. Within 10% is o.k., but I usually find a good motor is much closer than that. My '99 30hp johnson has 125psi on both cylinders, my '57 18hp has that on both cylinders as well. If yours is 100psi on both, don't freak out, as those gauges are known to be inaccurate pretty often. The recoil spring probably just needs a little lube from sitting for so long. Changing the impeller is not bad at all, just ask how before you do it or search some old threads on how to remove the lower unit properly. Basic tools is all you'll need. DO IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! A motor sitting for 4 yrs. will almost surely have a "set" impeller. (the rubber hardens and makes the blades less flexible.)
If it were me, I'd be MORE interested in what the lower unit oil looked like after a good run in the barrel for a few minutes. If it is milky or you find water in there, you might consider passing on the motor at that price, since the lower unit seals are bad and although the parts are cheap, the labor to fix them isn't. If it's been sitting with water in it, the bearings could be shot. Also, the dent you mentioned in the lower unit is interesting as well.
Good luck,
JBJ


Good thoughts.

The guy seems pretty legit to me, quiet spoken guy but I dont think he is trying to hide anything from it. It's clear the motor has sat unused for a bit due to some saw dust on the choke face plate etc. His story lines up, the prop does infact look brand new. I thought about the dent as well and that is probably why the new prop is on there, likely hit a rock with it. But I am sure the dog gear, forward and reverse would prove to be fine after seeing it run in both gears in a tub on the back of my boat right?
Thanks on the advice on the residue issue :)

This is all going to be done in my back yard tomorrow, -4 for a high, I am sure the motor will be "cold" from sitting outside, so do you think I am going to run into any issues?

I would be interested to see the lower unit oil as well, but I am not sure the seller would appreciate me doing that :confused: especially having him stand around in the cold. He said he replaced the lower unit oil every season "owned the motor since new" and would replace the plugs every year, that is all he has ever done to it by the sounds of it, said it has been used a hand full of total hours since buying it new due to its weight. He said he had a boat in which he put in his pick up, so I am taking it that a heavier motor like this, would have in fact been of a hassel thinking of his situatioin of lifting the motor out of the truck, carrying it to the boat and getting it on there :confused: which explains the hand full of scratches in the decal on the crowl as he said it had sat on the floor of the boat while in his truck:cool: Man if that we're my motor from brand new I would have treated it with better respect in that aspect.

But it looks pretty good though aside from all of that, when I said the dent in the foot, I wasnt refering to the fin, but the casing, I observed it, it wasnt cracked or repaired.

Guess I will see how she runs tomorrow, rather glad that him forgetting to buy the brass fitting, and him not being able to feed the motor fuel to test it for me at his place, with him coming here it works out better as I can stick the motor on the transom and try out the gears, whereas at his house we had nothing to hook it onto and I would have been holding it in garbage can lol.

PS
If worst comes to worst and I cant get a compression tester from my neighbour, as long as it idles nice and revs nice and goes into both gears and revs, I should be OK eh?
PPS
Going to be the first time I am going to be fiddling with one of these newer johnsons. I know on the tiller arm where the throttle is, at the last inch or so, that would be the low idle adjustment correct? would clockwise increase the idle and counter clockwise decrease it? I know I will get the hang of it and also once reading the owners manual he is giving me with the motor.. but just wanted to know incase I am the one who is firing it up tomorrow :)
 

northwoodslivin

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Re: 1989 Johnson 20HP "So I went and checked it out and..."

Re: 1989 Johnson 20HP "So I went and checked it out and..."

Hmm question guys... is this chart accurate? http://www.brokeboats.com/omcid.html Because according to that chart, and the Model # the fellow gave me for the motor CJ 20C ACEM . If the A is actually an R that would mean by the end of the model# according to that chart, that this Johnson 20 is infact a 90's motor prividing he screwed up the M at the end?
can anyone that has a better knowledge with this stuff detail out that model number? probably missing something due to an error on his part or I am just tired, yes.. bed time for this cat:cool:
 

bob johnson

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Re: 1989 Johnson 20HP "So I went and checked it out and..."

Re: 1989 Johnson 20HP "So I went and checked it out and..."

Hmm question guys... is this chart accurate? http://www.brokeboats.com/omcid.html Because according to that chart, and the Model # the fellow gave me for the motor CJ 20C ACEM . If the A is actually an R that would mean by the end of the model# according to that chart, that this Johnson 20 is infact a 90's motor prividing he screwed up the M at the end?
can anyone that has a better knowledge with this stuff detail out that model number? probably missing something due to an error on his part or I am just tired, yes.. bed time for this cat:cool:

the model year in the model number is determined by the 2 letters BEFORE the last letter...

the last letter doesnt have model specific meaning as i know it...

the letters before the model year letters do have meaning and describe the options on the motor usually

bob
 

northwoodslivin

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Re: 1989 Johnson 20HP "So I went and checked it out and..."

Re: 1989 Johnson 20HP "So I went and checked it out and..."

Alright,

Well he is on his way over soon. He said the model number is CJ20CRCEM hmm... the M has got me, unless it is an N?
 

northwoodslivin

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Re: 1989 Johnson 20HP "So I went and checked it out and..."

Re: 1989 Johnson 20HP "So I went and checked it out and..."

the model year in the model number is determined by the 2 letters BEFORE the last letter...

the last letter doesnt have model specific meaning as i know it...

the letters before the model year letters do have meaning and describe the options on the motor usually

bob

Which would mean it is an 89 right CE=89 I just cant figure out the M :confused: I will see the letter with my 20/20 vision in due time to confirm :)
 

northwoodslivin

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Re: 1989 Johnson 20HP "So I went and checked it out and..."

Re: 1989 Johnson 20HP "So I went and checked it out and..."

ok I get it now. makes sense.
CJ20CRCEM
CJ=Canada Johnson 20=HP C=Counter Rotation R=Rope Start CE=89 M=model run code :cool:
 

northwoodslivin

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Re: 1989 Johnson 20HP "So I went and checked it out and..."

Re: 1989 Johnson 20HP "So I went and checked it out and..."

Well...

Stuck the motor on my boat, filled up a can to put under the foot, hooked it up, primed it and on first pull it fired right up, which is amazing having sat so long...ran pretty good! until I noticed it wasnt peeing water :eek: So I shut it off, took off the crowl, took off the water hose and blew in it to see if it was plugged, it wasnt.. put it back on, let it cool down and tried it again, only exhaust is coming out of the pee hole with the odd drop of moisture.. so ya, impeller is shot from sitting so long. So we went into my place and I made a call to see how much a new water pump kit and foot gasket are, 60 for the OEM kit and 4 for gasket but they cant order it from the supplier unless it is over a 150 dollar order:rolleyes:

I also opened the drain screw and vent screw to let some gear oil out. I am not sure what to look for there, but it was a brownish darkish grey, and have very very small white particles in it, but that could have just been from the run off mixing with the water on the lower unit :confused: I am not sure what "milky" gear oil looks like as I have never seen it before.

Either way, I did not do the deal until he gets it fixed, I told him I would fix it myself.. but I think he is going to bring it in to get fixed, not sure if he is still gungho about doing the trade now though... Aside from that, it went in forward and reverse just fine. Stalled out on me the one time a few seconds after putting it in forward probably because it was cold and it is -4 outside today ;)
Never let it run to the point the heads got so hot I could not touch em though ;)

Ah, what a bummer..... err
 

ezmobee

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Re: 1989 Johnson 20HP "So I went and checked it out and..."

Re: 1989 Johnson 20HP "So I went and checked it out and..."

I'd do the deal anyway. Water pump is just a maintenance item and you'd be doing it even if it had pumped water. Plus, you said you don't use the TV. And despite what you paid for the TV, you really could probably only sell it for like $400 or so.
 

northwoodslivin

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Re: 1989 Johnson 20HP "So I went and checked it out and..."

Re: 1989 Johnson 20HP "So I went and checked it out and..."

Ya.. well.. I paid a tad over 1300 for it in October... so.I dont want a motor that needs work. He understood that, and he is going to get it fixed on his dime ;) Rope starter wouldnt retract all the way when I pulled it over, but I am sure that is just from it sitting and needs a bit of grease huh.

It was the lower gear oil that made me iffy.. It was dark greyish in color. I rubbed it between my fingers, I dont think there was any metal shavings in it. But is this what it is supposed to look like or is it supposed to be clear like what new motor oil would look like? Would anyone happen to have pictures of what good used gear oil looks like and what potiential problem gear oil looks like?
 

northwoodslivin

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Re: 1989 Johnson 20HP "So I went and checked it out and..."

Re: 1989 Johnson 20HP "So I went and checked it out and..."

I took a picture of the bottom of the bucket I let some gear oil drop out into. Keep in mind there was water in this bucket, so it has mixed with some water, I am just uploading it to show the color of it, is this normal?

dscf0286s.jpg
 

northwoodslivin

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Re: 1989 Johnson 20HP "So I went and checked it out and..."

Re: 1989 Johnson 20HP "So I went and checked it out and..."

Also upon further inspection of the foot. I noticed there was a chunk of metal broken off, perhaps a half inch with from the fin, where the prop is directly behind. It is not cracked or anything.. He told me he hit a rock and ruined the prop which is why there is a new one on there now. I dont think this would effect it's performance, the fin's form is still all there and it is not distorted or anything, just a small piece broken off..

ETA:
The picture I took of the gear oil. It is actually a bit of a different color under normal light, it has an olive greenish/greyish color to it. I am taking it that this is all looks normal and is just the color it should be from use? Or is there problems? I take it that the olive green color is what it looked like new, and the brownish hue to it is just from running hot/time to be replaced gear oil and everything is AOK there?
Also, I noticed there is a little led weight fixed to the calvatation plate on the top stern side "looking facing the prop of the motor from the rear" Is that normal? can't say I have seen something like that before but never really occured to me at the time to ask about it.
 

northwoodslivin

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Re: 1989 Johnson 20HP "Update"

Re: 1989 Johnson 20HP "Update"

Also,

I saw a bit of oil around the prop where it meets at the foot on the shaft, possible the prop seal gasket is leaking? If it was, wouldnt that gear oil be all milky looking? It had no white in it, just an olive/brown/greyish look.
 

northwoodslivin

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Re: 1989 Johnson 20HP "Update"

Re: 1989 Johnson 20HP "Update"

So guys.

Does that gear oil look OK to you? I know it looks used, and in person, as I said it has that green/brown/grey color to it which the camera had a hard time caputuring obviously.

It is to my understanding that if it was a mustard yellow and milky then I would be in trouble correct?
 
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